Thursday 24th May
Yet another beaut day and after superb breakfast we set off a short 4 Kms drive to Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah , the setting for a number of films including Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator.
ABH is the most famous Kasbah in Morocco and the location and the building itself certainly live up to this reputation. Sadly, as with all kasbahs this one is in a state of disrepair but work is continually underway to return it to its former glory.
Continuing towards the south-east we eventually meet the main Ouarzazate to Marrakesh road and for the next couple of hours travel through increasingly rugged scenery before stopping for lunch at a cafe where a very tasty omelette and kebab is served ( after having been cooked at the roadside. )Head east for a very short time before going off-road for the start of a rough but memorable 3.5 hour drive through the desert to Erg Chigaga Desert Camp. Yahya’s driving continues to impress during what is marathon stint of over 9 hours.
The Desert Camp quite clearly lives up to all of the hype as seen on the website and Trip Advisor comments and to describe our accommodation as a tent does no justice to the quality of our home for the next two nights.
After being welcomed with a cold drink our first priority is to take a short walk to the top of the nearby dunes to view a splendid sunset, followed by the usual huge 3 course dinner, served outside in a truly memorable setting.
The camp was supposed to close before now but the owner, Nick ( friend of our hosts in Marrakesh, Lin and Malcolm ) has kindly left it open to accommodate just two Aussie nomads. BTW the camp is closed from May until September to avoid the temperatures which can reach up to 50!
Friday 25th May.
Great night’s sleep so up and refreshed for great breakfast with the temperature already in high 30’s.
Meet up with Ali, our camel driver, who takes usAin a 1.5 hours ride among the high Erg Chigaga dunes. He speaks only French so a good chance to put my very rusty French to the test. We both seem to cope well although I don’t expect either of us to be called up for any future re-make of Lawrence of Arabia.
A few years ago a motor cycle rider, the late Barry Sheen, was asked by a female reporter what it really felt like riding in motorcycle Grand Prix and Barry came up with the memorable line ” well, can’t you imagine having 1000cc’s of throbbing metal between your legs!
The camel ride obviously can’t compare with that but it certainly puts the ‘glutes’, thighs and backside to the test.
Back at the camp we finally meet up with Yahya’s brother Bobo who is the manager of the camp and seemingly Nick’s 2 I/C.
The by now familiar lavish lunch is served in a tent, out of the swirling winds which have come up along with a rise in temp to the mid 40’s.
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Next few hours spent just relaxing before heading off by 4 WD to an oasis and then to a high point of the dunes to watch the sunset from a different vantage point from the previous evening.
It will be interesting to follow the progress of the Erg Chigaga Camp over the next few years as the word spreads and its well-deserved reputation for a very high quality desert experience is more widely publicized. It already seems likely that there will an increase in guests who arrive either by plane or helicopter to avoid the long off-road drive ( not everyone’s cup of tea although we loved it ) Hopefully, it’s growth will not be at the expense of the traditional Berber aspect of the camp.
VERY hot now so time to sign off and find a cool hole to crawl into.
The Obese Ferret ( If we eat many more of these meals I will have to come up with another nickname)
2geonomads 