Wednesday 11th October 2017
Victoria Falls
We had been forewarned that October is the hottest month in this part of Africa and certainly we awake to highest temperatures than previously experienced on this trip. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful morning to enjoy the magnificent view from the breakfast room out over the Zambezi Gorge.
We have enjoyed some fine food so far on our journey but the breakfast served up here is of the highest standard and a perfect way to start the day on which we will tick off one of THE destinations on our Bucket List, Victoria Falls. Apart from visiting one of the Natural Wonders of the World we are also keen to compare them with Niagara in Ontario and especially Iguazu in South America.
It’s a pleasant change to be able take our time at the Lodge but shortly after 10 am our driver, Richman, arrives to take Jeff, Terri, Gail and myself on the 23 kms drive to the Falls.
Along the way Richman, in line with all previous guides/drivers is very forthcoming with information on Zimbabwean life, and does not in any way try to avoid discussion on the many hardships faced by the population. Even during this short drive we see ample evidence that a country which was once the food basket of much of Africa is now something more akin to a ‘ basket case’ and this is certainly in no way the fault of the people who, in spite of the difficulties, seem to be incredibly industrious.
On arrival at the Falls Richman gives us a brief talk on the area and then leaves us to spend a couple of hours on a self-guided walking tour along the rim.
Our first view of the Falls does not disappoint as we arrive at Devil’s Cataract and we are amazed to see one very brave local fishing in the water above the Falls before the river drops to the bottom of the gorge, hopefully minus the aforementioned angler!
Further along the path we come across the statue of the famous Scottish explorer Dr David Livingstone who was reportedly greeted by Sir Henry Morton Stanley with the immortal words” Dr Livingstone I presume” although this may have been a fabrication. What is indisputable is that Stanley did find Livingstone near Lake Tanganyika on 10th November 1871.
No words of mine can do justice to these magnificent Falls and I will therefore, let the many photographs tell the story.
It should be borne in mind that we have arrived at Victoria in the low season
and some sections of the Falls are either completely dry or with low water flow.
Having said that the Falls at High Water may be more spectacular but on the down side the spray can often make it very difficult to view or photograph them.
Each season has its advantages and disadvantages but it remains a magnificent sight all the year round.
Images show statistics for the world’s greatest waterfalls and Victoria Falls at the end of the winter dry season and after the summer wet season
How do Victoria Falls compare with Niagara and Iguazu?
As you will see from the comparable statistics taken from the display board at the entrance to the Falls Victoria is the highest, Iguazu the widest and Niagara has the greatest volume.
However , these stats do not really tell the full story and Gail and I still feel that when one visits Iguazu one feels PART of the Falls rather than looking over at the Falls as in the case of Victoria. Apologies to all our Canadian and American friends but in spite of its impressive volume Niagara has become something of a Disneyland compared with the other two.
We arrive back at our rendezvous point with Richman a little later than planned but he seems totally unperturbed by it all.
By now we are all feeling a bit peckish and so it’s off to The Three Monkeys, a nearby restaurant, for lunch.
Next door to our lunch venue is located a Snake Park ( one of Gail’s favourites !) and a delightful young man, Divine, takes us on a walking tour past the various cages containing some of this land’s most venomous snakes including the feared Green Mamba and provides some comprehensive information on the various species.
Before leaving the area we are given a little time to check out a local market with numerous vendors all selling much the same items. Given the parlous state of Zimbabwe’s economy it comes as no surprise that we are continually hassled as we walk past the stalls and Gail and I spend some time talking to little guy called Bongo and his friend Trust both of whom are VERY keen for us to buy something.
I explain to Bongo that we have been unable to obtain any small denominations of US$ but we will come back to see them when we return to Vic Falls in a few day’s time. He gives me a gift of a 20 Billion Dollar note as an enticement to come back and he explains that this actually was the currency at the height of the hyperinflation. They currently use US$.
We leave with Bongo giving me a look that says ” I know you won’t be back” but I am determined to prove him wrong.
On this very busy day we are now heading off for an evening cruise on the Zambezi River, stopping for a short time on the way to the jetty to view The Big Tree, aged between 1000 and 1500 years.
The River Cruise is all that we could have wished for with plenty to drink and eat and some bird and hippo sightings along the way.
However, the grand finale comes in the form of two elephants who swim across the river from the Zimbabwean side to Zambia even the crew on board seem impressed by this apparently infrequent event.
Back at Gorges Lodge we enjoy a fine BBQ with the rest of the lodge guests and meet up with a family from Canada who earlier in the day had gone white water kayaking ( grade 5!) and had had a truly memorable day in spite of finding themselves in the water of the rapids on more than one occasion. Oh to be young again!
Off to bed after a very busy but incredibly rewarding day here at Vic Falls.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret.
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