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Great brekkie on terrace overlooking the old part of Fes.
Our guide Abdel arrives at 10.00 to take us on a walking tour through the famous Medina area of the city. Fes is something of an assault on the senses, especially the food market area. As Gail knows I have always had a problem with eating a whole fish as the eyes always seem to look accusingly at me. This time a sheep’s head seemed to give me the evil eye long after I headed off down one of the many narrow alleyways which make up the Medina.
Perhaps the most memorable experience from the Medina was a visit to the largest tannery in Africa where,in spite of much pushing for Gail to buy a leather jacket ( probably to be used once a year in WA ) we came away with 2 pairs of slippers and a wallet for $60.

Afternoon spent relaxing but Gail does have a hamman at the hotel and comes back suitably scrubbed and smooth.

Pleasant dinner at hotel then early to bed to prepare for taxi at 5,00 next morning,

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Wednesday 30 th May

Beautiful day again.

Spend early morning relaxing and leave about 11.00 to head over L and M’s farm situated about 35 kms from Marrakesh in very pleasant rural area.

We then move on to the site of Clare and Tarik’s soon to be completed new home and then to view L and M’s new home ( in the early stages of construction ). Lin’s plan is to create a bio-dynamic farm in the area adjacent to the new home so that she might pursue her interest in nutrition in which she has a degree. Both of the homes have wonderful views of the surrounding mountains.

Back to their home for lunch and Malc than takes us into the city to despatch a parcel back to Aus and also to book our train tickets for the trip next day from Marra to Fes.

Finish the day looking at various photos and enjoying our last dinner get-together with the usual mirth and story-telling.

The Obese Ferret.

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Tuesday 29th May

Up fairly early to be greeted by a lovely breakfast prepared by Aziza, L and M’s delightful maid.

The four of us then drive into centre of Marrakesh where L and G have their hair respectively colored and cut at the very plush Mamounia Hotel. Malc and I just have coffee to keep the budget surplus intact!
Meet up with girls again at the Cafe Arabe for a lunch which proved to be very disappointing.
Take a walk through the Souks to the famous Jemaa El Fna Square, scene of a suicide bombing in May 2011.

Enjoy coffee on terrace overlooking square before heading back to L and M’s for a game of croquet on their back lawn. The hitherto unbeaten champion, Malc, then had to suffer the indignity of being beaten by his daughter and yours truly.

Another superb dinner to round off the day.

The Obese Ferret

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Monday 28th May

Forgot to mention that we had managed to remember Craig’s birthday and, miracle of all miracles, we had managed to get through to him on the phone. Craig’s response to my comment that I wish we were with him in WA for his special day was ” No you don’t!” and he was right of course.

Try to get away early from the Kasbah de la Vallee hotel for long drive back to Marrakesh, stopping along the way at the important regional town of Ouarzazate, known for its roses and rose by-products. Lunch overlooking the obligatory large Kasbah then on towards to the famed Tichka Pass, this time traveling on a road not covered on our way south.
The road over the pass is even more breathtaking this time around and apart from a short stretch when he takes on the guise of a Moroccan Vettel Yahya is his usual , excellent self as he negotiates this remarkable road.
As promised to the ladies on the way south we return to purchase some argan oil products from a women’s cooperative, which is one of many set up to help the women in these poorer rural areas.

Finally arrive at the house of our friends Lin and Malcolm Ducker about 5.00 and say goodbye to our fantastic driver, guide and all round good bloke, Yahya.

Great to see L and M after 3 years and also to find them both looking well, notwithstanding the fact that Lin is still recovering from a fairly severe dose of the flu.

The lovely house is in a very quiet location about 20 kms from Marrakesh and is set in a large garden with plenty of room for their 4 dogs to roam.

Meet up with L and M’s daughter ,Clare her Moroccan husband Tarik and their 9 month old daughter, Buthayna.
Settle in for our 3 night stay and not surprisingly spend our first evening over dinner swapping info on our respective lives during the previous 3 years. As always, much laughter as Malc entertains us with his unique brand of humour.

Off to bed with many very happy memories of a fantastic trip to the south.

The Obese Ferret

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Saturday 25th May

Windy but hot day and we awake to see that the camp is gradually disappearing before our eyes and all that remains is our own tent, the breakfast tent, the one where we have enjoyed lounging about in the heat of the day and of course the kitchen tent so that we ocean be kept fed and watered right up to the last minute.

Take one final photo of the camp team and much to their amusement we have them lined up like a football team defending a penalty. The only one missing is the chef who is deaf and prefers to stay in the background. I could make the comment that all our complaints on the food seem to fall on d..f ears but that would be politically incorrect. Come what may he does a magnificent job serving up food of the highest order under what must be very often very trying circumstances.

Before leaving the camp for the trip north have time to think back on the memorable moments of our stay and can’t really go past our camel ride with Ali when he stopped to answer his mobile phone in the middle of the dunes. When I mentioned to him the irony of this he said ” phones everywhere but no water in sight”. Couldn’t have said it better myself!

Finally set off about 10.00 for drive north to Todra Gorge. First section through desert to M’hamid, Yahya’s home town. Not far north of M’hamid we arrive at the the Draa Valley. The Draa River,at 1200 kms,is the longest river in Moroccco and the valley is a really a very long oasis.
We continue north to the pottery town of Zagore, which seems to be expanding at a remarkable rate and has become an administrative centre for this region. We leave the Draa Valley and head north-west towards towards Tazzarine where two incidents remind us that Morocco is full of surprises. Firstly, in the centre of Tazzarine, we come across two Muslim ladies,who totally oblivious to any danger, stop in the middle of the busy main road, put down their suitcases, give each other a warm embrace and exchange kisses and stop for a chat!
Just outside of Tazzarine we were amazed to see a car in front of us, also traveling north suddenly veer over to the opposite side of the road and drive headlong towards a truck coming towards us, seemingly bent on suicide. Only at the last minute did he slow down and facing the truck the drivers had what was presumably a pre-arranged rendezvous! They certainly put the fear of God into the 3 people in our car for a while.
Finally turn due north at Alnif and on to the town of Tinerhir, gateway to the Todra Gorge.
Superb scenery on drive into the gorge and Hotel Darayour Hotel in a great position overlooking the river downstream from the gorge itself.
Take early evening stroll into gorge which is truly magnificent, especially in the late afternoon light.
Sadly, the tourists and locals alike seem to take no pride in this Moroccan gem and the level of garbage strewn everywhere is of mind-numbing proportions.
More than adequate dinner at hotel and relatively early night.

The Obese Ferret.

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Thursday 24th May
Yet another beaut day and after superb breakfast we set off a short 4 Kms drive to Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah , the setting for a number of films including Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator.

ABH is the most famous Kasbah in Morocco and the location and the building itself certainly live up to this reputation. Sadly, as with all kasbahs this one is in a state of disrepair but work is continually underway to return it to its former glory.

Continuing towards the south-east we eventually meet the main Ouarzazate to Marrakesh road and for the next couple of hours travel through increasingly rugged scenery before stopping for lunch at a cafe where a very tasty omelette and kebab is served ( after having been cooked at the roadside. )Head east for a very short time before going off-road for the start of a rough but memorable 3.5 hour drive through the desert to Erg Chigaga Desert Camp. Yahya’s driving continues to impress during what is marathon stint of over 9 hours.
The Desert Camp quite clearly lives up to all of the hype as seen on the website and Trip Advisor comments and to describe our accommodation as a tent does no justice to the quality of our home for the next two nights.

After being welcomed with a cold drink our first priority is to take a short walk to the top of the nearby dunes to view a splendid sunset, followed by the usual huge 3 course dinner, served outside in a truly memorable setting.

The camp was supposed to close before now but the owner, Nick ( friend of our hosts in Marrakesh, Lin and Malcolm ) has kindly left it open to accommodate just two Aussie nomads. BTW the camp is closed from May until September to avoid the temperatures which can reach up to 50!

Friday 25th May.

Great night’s sleep so up and refreshed for great breakfast with the temperature already in high 30’s.

Meet up with Ali, our camel driver, who takes usAin a 1.5 hours ride among the high Erg Chigaga dunes. He speaks only French so a good chance to put my very rusty French to the test. We both seem to cope well although I don’t expect either of us to be called up for any future re-make of Lawrence of Arabia.
A few years ago a motor cycle rider, the late Barry Sheen, was asked by a female reporter what it really felt like riding in motorcycle Grand Prix and Barry came up with the memorable line ” well, can’t you imagine having 1000cc’s of throbbing metal between your legs!

The camel ride obviously can’t compare with that but it certainly puts the ‘glutes’, thighs and backside to the test.

Back at the camp we finally meet up with Yahya’s brother Bobo who is the manager of the camp and seemingly Nick’s 2 I/C.

The by now familiar lavish lunch is served in a tent, out of the swirling winds which have come up along with a rise in temp to the mid 40’s.
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Next few hours spent just relaxing before heading off by 4 WD to an oasis and then to a high point of the dunes to watch the sunset from a different vantage point from the previous evening.

It will be interesting to follow the progress of the Erg Chigaga Camp over the next few years as the word spreads and its well-deserved reputation for a very high quality desert experience is more widely publicized. It already seems likely that there will an increase in guests who arrive either by plane or helicopter to avoid the long off-road drive ( not everyone’s cup of tea although we loved it ) Hopefully, it’s growth will not be at the expense of the traditional Berber aspect of the camp.

VERY hot now so time to sign off and find a cool hole to crawl into.

The Obese Ferret ( If we eat many more of these meals I will have to come up with another nickname)

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