Friday 23rd May 2014
Not a great night’s sleep on a very noisy ferry but the breakfast on board is passable and we are soon on our way by taxi to Ancona airport to collect our rental car, a Hyundai with surprisingly limited luggage space.
In one of my less inspired moments I suggested that,instead of driving north immediately we should drive to the town of Macerata to the south-west of Ancona.
The writer in the Rough Guide had described the town as ” a hilltop gem which draws the inevitable comparisons with Urbino”. It is undeniably on a hilltop but that’ s the only part of the description that rings true. It is supposedly an ideal place to wind down in the evenings after exploring Le Marche. Unfortunately, we arrived early in the morning so that wasn’t of much help. Our mood wasn’t helped by the fact that we couldn’t change 400 kuna left over from Croatia into euros as that country is not part of the euro zone. Anyway we do find a coffee bar with good coffee and pastries so we set off to the north suitably fed and watered again.
We managed to get a surprisingly good salad lunch at one of the autostrada service areas and after a fairly long drive we arrive on the outskirts of the great renaissance city of Urbino. Time being a bit short to do justice to the city we drive to Urbania over a magnificent mountain road which shows the scenery of this area at its best.
It was then time to find our way to our agriturismo, Pietra Rosa, where we had stayed a few years earlier. Gail’s remarkable navigational memory ( and for once I’m not being facetious ) brought us to our location where we were greeted by the owner, Mauro , and his scruffy old dog Baoli. Unfortunately, Mauro’s wife Jenny was away on holidays so we missed out on her creative cooking, using local produce, including flowers!
On our previous visit G and I had both felt that Mauro could have put in more work on the garden, pool and outside areas but it is, if anything , in a worse state than before. Moreover, Baoli doesn’t appear to have had a wash in the intervening 3 years.However, the rooms are fine and Mauro , whilst not Jenny, does a fairly respectable job in cooking the evening meal.
My nephew Andy and his wife Mo arrived to join us for a one-night stay before flying back to the UK the next day and as always it’s great to catch up with them both. It’ s just a pity that the tyranny of distance makes these occasions all too rare. The road into Pietra Rosa is less than perfect and I was blamed by A and M for selecting this place . We do have form in this regard as we had selected as a venue for my 60 th a farmhouse high in the hills near Florence accessible only by a goat track in terrible condition. However, on this occasion I was an innocent party as G had booked Pietra Rosa without any involvement from me.
Before dinner we sit outside for a while to enjoy some white and red wine. Andy had kindly brought us a bottle of very fine Sagrantino Passito, from a grape found only in the Montefalco region of Umbria, I had bought a quality bottle of red in a local bottle shop and John had also purchased a red in Split which Andy quickly described as p.ss. In fact , if anyone had passed this they would have had serious health problems. Nevertheless, J and I manfully persisted in drinking it as we both hate to see any wine go to waste.
All in all a great time was had by all in this lovely location.
Cheers
The Obese Ferret

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