2geonomads

Thursday 12th March 2015

Early breakfast at 6.30  and leave hotel at 7.30 after a very good breakfast we head off by bus to the ferry terminal . Here we take a larger ferry which we share with many other passengers. After initially sailing along the Senoret Canal we reach the mouth of the Fiordo Eberhard, where cattle ranching was started by German Captain Hermann Eberhard in the Ultima Esperanza region in 1887. We then proceed along the Fiordo Ultima Esperanza. About 90 minutes of sailing from Puerto Natales brings us to the Cormorant Colony. Hundreds of these birds use this point as their breeding ground, resting there and leaving only when the young have learned to fly 3 months later.

As we move along the fjord the landscape becomes more scenic and imposing and the mountains more majestic. Shortly after passing a sea lion colony we arrive at the spectacular Condor Cliff where we have a rare opportunity to view the world’s largest land bird at close quarters. Their wingspan of 3.2 metres is exceeded only by that of the albatross and the great white pelican.

More on this magnificent bird- the condor soars with its wings held horizontally and it’s primary feathers bent upwards at the tips. The lack of a large sternum identifies it as mainly a soarer flapping its wings to attain elevation but then relying on thermals to stay aloft. Being a scavenger and preferring large carcasses it requires to roost on high places from which to launch itself.

The ferry captain takes us very close to the cliffs which are home to some twenty condors who put on a fantastic display of gliding.

Next stop is Monte Balmaceda ( 2035  metres ) and the glacier of the same name. The glacier, in keeping with so many others is in retreat and it is interesting to note that in 1981 the foot of the glacier was at sea level.

After a 3 hour trip from Puerto Natales we arrive at Puerto Toro from where we walk to the Serrano Glacier.Our young ferry captain Francisco becomes our guide on our short walk ( 20 mins ) to the base of the Glacier.

Along the way there are posts indicating how much the glacier has receded over the last 50 years. In the scheme of things the recession appears less dramatic than at other glaciers.

We continue on to a lunch stop at Hosteria Monte Balmaceda where after a meal we change into our wet weather gear and board a zodiac for the onward journey up the Rio Serrano, stopping at an impassable waterfall, the Salto Rio Serrano,to circumvent the fall on foot, then re boarding the zodiac. The new zodiac skipper seems to take some delight in demonstrating how rough this part of the river can be and those of us who suffer from periodic lower back pain are searching for information on wheelchair access for the various tracks in the Torres del Paine Nat. Park. Fortunately the discomfort is short-lived and the Rio Serrano becomes far more friendly as we approach our final destination for the night.

By now we are catching tantalising glimpses of Torres del Paine  towers in between the clouds and with each bend in the river the scenery becomes more spectacular.

4 pm sees us at the Hotel del Paine on the shores of Rio Serrano with a superb view of the Horns and the Towers. In spite of its great location the hotel flatters to deceive and a ‘ mañana ‘ attitude is very much in evidence.

Shan is immediately at her feisty best ensuring that the wifi, hot water etc are all up to the standard she expects while Barb is not happy with her room as it faces away from the river, is too close to the reception and restaurant and too noisy. Complaints not entirely unjustified but some might say ” first world problems.”

Leisure time before dinner- just good to relax. G still not really very well but hopefully will improve over the next 24 hours.

Dinner a smorgasbord with the hordes of Taiwanese fighting for survival around the tables- ignorance personified. Don’t get between a Taiwanese and his/her food if you value your life! As Tom pointed out this is the inevitable result of the new bourgeoisie in  that region travelling the world but not yet familiar with the usual norms of interacting with other travellers.

Good chat  with Tom and Sue on the question of Craig and future career. Tom has worked in this area for some time so his insights were very helpful.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret