2geonomads

Wednesday 28th October  2015

We have set aside today to visit Reims ( pronounced by the French as ‘Rance’ with a suitably throaty ‘r’ a la Edith Piaf. ).

However we first need to put some more fuel into the Peugeot Diesel Tractor, which is not the straightforward process that one might imagine. As has happened on more than one occasion on this trip our credit card ( this time Amex ) is not accepted at the self-serve bowser. I go inside to the cashier and he accompanies me back to the pump to demonstrate to this incompetent foreigner how it’s done. Sadly it doesn’t work for him either and this by now very affable fellow( I think he’s relaxed a little now he knows I can speak his language ) and I have a mutual commiseration chat before he says ” seulement cash”.

I then fill up at another pump and once again walk into the cashier’s desk with cash at the ready. To my surprise he asks me again for the Amex card and “Hey Presto” it goes through. I am satisfied that I have been able to use my card and he has a Cheshire Cat grin that shows that he has been able to do his little bit for Franco-Australian relations. It’s only taken about 15 minutes!

Finally time to drive into the very impressive city of Reims and find a car park very close to the centre. First the obligatory visit to the Tourist Centre and duly armed with a city map we visit the Notre Dame Cathedral a Gothic masterpiece begun in 1211 and the site of 25 royal coronations. It was very badly damaged during WW1 but was restored largely with funds donated by John D Rockefeller.

Apart from its magnificent facade it also features a considerable array of superb stained glass windows and large paintings of Pope St John XX111 and St John Paul 11. Noticeably absent is any reference to Pope Benedict XV1 who during his 7 year papacy never seemed to gain the affection of the people.

statue of Joan of Arc

Modern window depicting the story of wine making in region.

The equally impressive but more austere Basilique Saint Remi is our next stop off. Built in the 11th century it houses the ornate mausoleum and tomb of Saint Remi who lived to the ripe old age of 96, remarkable longevity for that era ( 6th century ).

By now it’s lunchtime and Gail’s research has come up with an epicerie Au Bon Manger near to the Place Royale.The owners, Eric and Aline Serva offer a huge range of fine foods and wines and although it is not strictly a restaurant Eric is very happy to prepare for us a lunch of  salmon and very sweet organic potatoes. It’s organic champagne for Gail and white wine for me. Absolutely delicious! So enamoured are we of the food we also buy some goats cheese and terrine for the evening’s meal.