2geonomads

Thursday 28th April 2016

Wake up decidedly less jet-lagged than the previous day and Gustavo duly arrives at the hotel right on time and we head north out of the city, past the impressive Parque La Carolina and through suburbs of variable quality, covering the full gamut of socio- economic groups. As always there exists a huge gap between the wealthy and the poor.

Our main target destination today is Mitad Del Mundo, located in the equinoctial valley and reputedly the most visited tourist site in Ecuador.

However, Gustavo first takes us to a the crator rim of a long-dormant volcano Pululahua. This vantage point offers us a superb vista over the very fertile area inside the crater which is home to about 40 families ( 120 people ). Whilst there is a road access from the far side of the crater many of the local people face the daunting long climb on foot from the floor of the crater to source all manner of supplies.

We now return to Mitad Del Mundo which comprises the Ciudad Mitad Del Mundo, a large complex seemingly run mainly by the State. The large monument with a globe perched on top dominates the skyline and lining the avenue leading up to it are statues of significant figures representing the history, culture and ancestry of this site.

However, before walking through this very touristy, commercial complex Gustavo takes us to the centre Latitude.0,0.0 which is run by the local indigenous population and supposedly marks the more accurate GPS location.

We are able to stand astride a marked equator line, try to balance an egg on the end of a nail and observe water emptying from a bowl into a sink ( in different  directions depending on which side of the Equator  one is standing.)

Some of the demonstrations and the validity of the experiments were met with some scepticism by the numerous tourists. Nevertheless it’s not every day that one can straddle Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

Time to head back to the centre of Quito and to visit La Capilla del Hombre and Museos de Arte, Precolombino,Colonial and Moderno.

Oswaldo Guaysamin is one Ecuador’s finest painters but also an activist who strove for accord among nations in South America and denounced dictators.

This lead to Unesco honouring him for dedicating his life to peace.

In 1976 Guayasamin, in collaboration with his sons established a foundation bearing his name . The foundation provided a vehicle for him to promote his work, ideas and beliefs and ultimately donate his entire art collection and house to his country, Ecuador.

The property is located in Bellavista and in keeping with the name affords superb views of the city of Quito.

In 1996 Guayasamin began work on his architectural masterpiece ” Chapel of Man” and this was opened in 2002. He died before it was completed but today it stands as the master’s tribute to unjustly and cruelly treated peoples of Latin America. He remains today one of the most iconic figures in Ecuador’s cultural history.

We return to the hotel by taxi and then set off on foot to find a restaurant in the local area. We eventually find a suitable establishment on Reina Victoria where we enjoy a very fine meal. Surprisingly, given the quality of the food, we were their only customers but some peace and quiet didn’t go amiss as far as we were concerned.

As we had. 4.30 am taxi pick up the next day we are in bed at a very civilised hour.

Quito, whilst not totally unattractive , certainly does not live up to the hype contained in reports and travel brochures on the city. However, this judgement is made after arriving in Quito well and truly jet- lagged and having insufficient time to do justice to this city. Unfortunately we will only have one night in Quito when we return from the Galápagos Islands and Guayaquil.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.