2geonomads

Bogota

14th May 2016

Pleased to wake up to a fairly clear day which will be perfect for our tour of Bogota. As usual Angelo is at the hotel at 9.00 am and we head off to our first destination planned for the day, the Museo Nacional. Unfortunately, this doesn’t open until 10.00 so it’s off to the famous Museo del Oro (gold museum).

This is free for anyone over 60 and Gail duly presents her Passport  as proof. When I go to take out my Senior’s card the young girl behind the counter waves me through, incredulous that I could believe that there was any doubt as to my qualification. The youth of today just don’t have any respect for their elders these days.

The museum has an amazing array of gold objects going back over many centuries and it certainly justifies its reputation as the leading museum in Bogota. We spend close to 90 minutes following the history of gold in various parts of the world but can’t help but note that Oceania’s place in this history is relatively insignificant.

Gold Nose Rings

The full regalia

Ancient Death Masks

After leaving the museum Angel drives us back towards the historic centre where he drops us off at the Botero Museum. Fernando Botero’s style of painting is quirky to say the least but has a certain appeal even to an art philistine such as myself. The gallery also contains paintings by Picasso, Monet, Pizarro and Henry Moore.

Angel collects us from the museum and we drive closer to the Plaza Bolivar, park the car again and start our city tour on foot.

guide Angel

After a quick coffee at a Juan Valdez coffee bar we head off down to the magnificent Plaza which is teeming with both people and pigeons. Overlooking the square are several magnificent buildings including the Palace of Justice, House of Congress,  Bogota Town Hall, Cathedral and Presidential Palace ( otherwise known as the Palacio de Narino).

Our walking tour next takes us to the Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara which, with its opulence is reminiscent of the Compania de Jesus in Quito and then we are able take a stroll to view the ‘modest’ abode of the President.

After a quick chat to Angel we decide to forgo the visit to the Museo Nacional and instead visit some of the more Bohemian, older parts of the city in the area called Candelaria. It’s fairly apt when we view a street called Calle de Agonia and another called Calle de Pena. (agony and sorry ) especially as we have just struggled in the thin air to make it up a very steep rise.

We finally reach the Plaza Chorro de Quevedo where the first house in Bogota is to be found and crowds of university students sit around smoking joints with impunity. Drug-taking in this area seems to be rife and the authorities seemingly turn a blind eye to these activities.

Angel is very protective of his foreign visitors and continually guides us away from the less salubrious areas.

Whilst Colombia is far less dangerous than previously ultra caution needs to be taken and more than one local reminded us not to be too obvious with our cameras.

As we have a very early start again the next day we head back to the carpark and our hotel for a quick drink and dinner in the hotel restaurant.

The short stay in Bogota has been an absolute delight and this country is clearly on the move compared with Ecuador. However, Angel explains that whether the development will be sustained is very much dependant on the ability of the government to sign a peace accord in the near future with the still powerful guerrilla forces.

Cuba awaits tomorrow so watch this space.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Bogota

13th May 2016

Wake up early after a night when our sleep was first of all interrupted by some guests arriving round about midnight , shouting and slamming doors in the adjoining rooms. They then gave a repeat performance between 2.30 and 3.00 am when they seemingly needed to check out early. They spoke neither Spanish nor English and sounded Chinese although my knowledge of Mandarin hovers between negligible and nil.

The breakfast in the hotel is superb and in spite of the sleep deprivation we are ready to venture out and Mr Punctuality Angel arrives at 9.00am.

With the weather rather drab we set off to the north of the city and we are soon out into some very green, fertile land.

Angel draws our attention to some very fine large houses and explains that these are in fact used for events, presumably functions such as weddings , but also for films and soapies.

Our main destination today is the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira. This is a church built in a salt mine which is still functioning. After the original mine/ cathedral was closed down when there were safety issues due to water getting in to the mine this new deeper version was opened 20 years ago.

When we first arrive to buy tickets for the mine we are advised that we can tour the cathedral but as we are over 60 we cannot follow the miners’ route during which one can experience the everyday work of a miner. This rejection takes place just as a bus load of seriously obese young American tourists are sent on their merry way to risk cardiac arrest!

Whilst the cathedral is obviously more meaningful for the many Catholics who see this as something of a pilgrimage it is nevertheless an awesome sight even for the less devout among the hordes of visitors.

Apart from the cathedral the town of Zipaquira is a delightful town with a beautiful main square surrounded by some fine old buildings with balconies overlooking the area.

A number of travel guides and our new-found Colombian friends had stressed that we should absolutely visit Andres Carne de Res Restaurant. When we first mention to Angel that we could perhaps give this a miss he was very insistent that this would be a mistake. We, therefore , duly arrived at the spot and for the next hour and a half we enjoy an experience which is quite unique. The food, ambience, music and the cacophony of noise which assaults the senses make for a surreal lunchtime meal.

Gail ordered a mojita which came in a bowl the size of a soup dish and we left ourselves to the tender mercies of two female waiters as they selected the dishes on our behalf.

Angel and the others had been absolutely right and a visit to this unique establishment is a must.

It’s now time to head back to Bogota but first we have to call into a shopping centre to sort out a problem with Gail’s computer. Before leaving the hotel earlier today Gail had discovered an issue with the charger on the MacBook.

Fearing the worst we find an IShop and to our relief the young manager quickly identifies the problem, namely some sand grains in the connection. Any offer to pay the young man is met with the comment that ” your gratitude is all the reward I need”. Would that the commercial world was always like this.

It’s long,slow trip back due to the very heavy traffic we are sure that Angel is one very tired driver at the end of the day.

Gail catches up on sorting out some photographs for the blog and I spend some time writing a couple more blog entries.

Our impression of Colombia becomes more positive by the day and it has been great to get out of the city into the rural areas.

No need for dinner after such a lunch so we are both off to bed at a reasonable hour.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Bogota

12th May 2016

We set the alarm for a very early start and have to forgo the pleasure of the hotel breakfast. Predictably, we arrive at the Quito Airport well ahead of time and briefly meet up with Shen from China who had been on our Tren Ecuador trip. After a futile search for the excellent coffee shop, Juan Valdez, one of which we had seen on our arrival at Guayaquil Airport we have have to settle for one of the Amazonia Coffee Bars and order a croissant for Gail and a Bagel for myself.  Apart from the fact that the food is truly dreadful and the tepid coffees even worse the whole establishment is the epitome of chaos. This in the country where the coffee has been of the highest quality throughout our trip.

Once again the very impressive Avianca airline is right on time with its flight to Bogota and in about 1 hour and 20 minutes we find ourselves in the Arrivals Hall where we are soon met by Angel Moreno our driver/ guide for our 3 night stay in the Colombian capital. Angel has been recommended to us by Sara Clemencia, a fellow guest on the Galápagos boat. He is a delightful man in his sixties ( we think ) and he makes it clear to us that he will make himself available to us for the full duration of our stay and will do everything possible for us to get the most out of our visit.

Angel speaks no English whatsoever so my very rusty Spanish is going to be put to the test in no uncertain manner.

He provides us with some very valuable information on his country and city as we make the trip into the centre.

The Hotel Estelar on Calle 93 ( another of Sara Clemencia’s recommendations ) is in a lovely location and it’s immediately apparent that we have arrived in a country which is on a totally different level to Ecuador both in terms of its economy and its sophistication.

We make it clear to Angel that we want to take it easy on our first day but we do agree to meet him at 2.30 that afternoon when he will take us to the cable car up to the Cerro de Monserrate ( Mount Monserrate ). With the weather forecast to take a turn for the worse in the evening Angel feels that this is the best time to visit one of Bogota’s most famous location. The cable car is up a very steep slope which means that this ferret spends all the time facing the rock face rather than taking in the undoubtedly spectacular views of the city below.

Monserrate is in superb location surrounded by mountains and the whole complex, including the church is beautifully maintained.

Bogota is a little over 2600 metres above sea level and the cable takes us up to 3170 where we definitely feel the effect of the thinner air.

We stay for over an hour then return to the hotel with Angel providing us with some very valuable information on the area and some potential dining spots for the evening.

We eventually settle on a very fine fish restaurant, Pesquera Jaramillo. The atmosphere and the food both live up to the hype from Angel and even a very rowdy group of Chinese on the next table can’t detract from a very enjoyable evening in this impressive city.

Although Colombia and Bogota are no longer as dangerous as in years gone by this restaurant , in common with many others has its own private security guard  keeping a close watch on things. It also has 5 large tv screens showing mainly sport, something else about which we had been forewarned.

All in all a great start to our stay and so it’s off to bed and hopefully a very good night’s sleep.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

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Friday 6th May

Puerto Villamil

Bags are packed and ready to go before breakfast ( at 6.00 am! ) and on the pangas by 6.45.

On our way to the airport we make a quick visit to one of The Twins, two huge sink-holes on either side of the road.

Sylvia and David from the crew accompany us to the airport and we are soon winging our way to Guayaquil where some of our fellow tourists will also get off whilst the remainder will continue their trip back to Quito.

Looking back on the week the most lasting impression has been the harmony of the group and the camaraderie established.  With so many disparate personalities from many backgrounds there is inevitability some apprehension as to how the week will pan out. I can only speak for Gail and myself but on that score any fears have been totally unfounded and this latest tick on our Bucket List has been a very rewarding and happy experience.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret ( who at one stage was convinced that he had really stacked on some weight, only to find that he was trying to put his leg into the arm-hole of his wetsuit!)

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Thursday 5th May 2016

Puerto Villamil/ Tintoreras

Breakfast at 6.00 am!

Dry landing and it’s off on a short walk to Las Tintoreras where we view an assortment of marine wildlife including sea lions, penguins, marine iguanas, marbled rays and for the first time some reef sharks, the last mentioned at very close quarters.

Four pick up trucks arrive to take us on a 45 minute drive to the lower slopes of the volcano Sierra Negra which last erupted in 2005. We are then faced with a moderately demanding trek to the rim of the crater which is second only to Ngorongoro crater in Tanzania in size, being 9 kilometres across.

It’s a spectacular sight and we are able to take a few group photographs on this the penultimate day of our tour of the Galapagos.

Sylvia is non too pleased when a couple of the pick up drivers arrive back late especially as they are contracted to stay at the initial drop off point to await our return from the trek. A fairly familiar scenario on the Galápagos Islands.

Back on board Tip Top 2 for lunch and  then another dry landing and off to the giant tortoise breeding centre near the town of Punta Villamil. This programme has been a resounding success and the total tortoise population is now in the region of 30,000 in the Galápagos.

On the return to town Tom and Debbie our two American amigos from Montana are dropped off at their hotel where they will be staying for the next 3 nights ( and sadly missing our cocktail get-together on board Tip Top 2)

The rest of the group divide into two parties, one made up of the alcoholics (including the Irelands) and the other healthier, clean- living mariners take to the beach, La Concha de Perla, for some last- minute snorkelling.

The visit of the alcoholics to a local bar makes for an amusing moment when this establishment has a Happy Hour Price List and a Standard  Price List. In a couple of cases the HH price list is more expensive than the standard. The owner of the bar doesn’t seem to see any problem with this inconsistency but we eventually seem to get the more attractive of the two price lists, whichever it is!

The town & beach of Punta Villamil including Sea Lions which are very much a part of life at this small port.

We are back on board Tip Top 2 by 5.30 and at 6.30 we assemble at the upper deck bar for farewell cocktails. In front of the assembled crew and guests the Captain makes a speech for which Sylvia is the interpreter and adding some comments of her own. Sara Clemencia, one of the lovely sisters from Bogota, responds on behalf of the guests and to finish with the Obese Ferret is roped in to say a few words in English.

The Last Supper includes a very tasty chocolate cake and a good time is had by all.

Some of linger to sit round the large dining table to talk over our week on board Tip Top 2 and recalling some of the memorable of which there have been many.

Off to bed as we have yet another early start the next day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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4th May

Isabela Island/ Urbina Bay

We seem to have left our previous night’s mooring at Espinosa Point between 3 and 4 am to make the relatively short trip to Urbina Bay.

We make a slightly earlier start than usual to be ahead of our sister ship Tip Top  3 ( on the panga by 7.45 ). Times in this area have to be allotted fairly rigidly as a considerable number of groups are visiting the bay.

After a short panga trip we make a non-too-easy landing on a steep coral beach with a sizeable swell making life rather difficult. It’s on these occasions that it’s good to have a couple of very capable Tip Top crew members in Andreas and David to bring us into shore.

Once ashore we follow a short trail to a coral reef which experienced a  4 metre uplift from the sea in 1954. For the first time we enjoy sightings of the tawny- coloured land iguana which is considerably larger than its marine relative and some land turtles.

As fas as the bird life is concerned a Galápagos hawk makes an appearance as do finches, mocking birds and the beautiful yellow warblers.

We return to the beach across an area which marks the border of the old beach pre-1954.

We have a short break back on board Tip Top before some of the group (yours truly included) swim/snorkel off the boat. For me the exercise is all about getting my confidence back after the earlier snorkelling forays. Mission accomplished!

Tip Top now proceeds to Elizabeth Bay ( as if her majesty doesn’t have enough places named after her)

After lunch we have a very welcome break until 3.00 pm when we set off on the pangas for a tour of the nearby mangrove swamps. This proves to be an absolute delight as we come across numerous speckled stingrays, turtles and sea lions which somehow have managed to climb up into the mangrove branches and roots. With the engine of the panga turned off and only a paddle used by David one could not ask for a more tranquil scene as we explore these pristine waters.

Dinner is brought forward as Tip Top meets rougher seas as we leave Elizabeth Bay bound for Puerto Villamil on the south coast of Isabela Island.

Happy to be tucked up in bed by 9 as we have a 6.00 am breakfast call for the next day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Tuesday 3rd May 2016

Isabela Island/ Vicente Roca Point

After having travelled overnight from Santiago Island we cross the equator shortly before 6 am and arrive at Vicente Roca Point.

After having travelled along on the northwestern wall of the crater we round the corner and find ourselves on the southern side of the crater rim and in a bay well protected from the ocean swells. This is our anchor point for the morning and we are fortunate that we are able to take in the views from the balcony of our cabin.

The famous Ireland digestive system has been playing up overnight so I have to forgo the panga trip round the island. The other eleven passengers get to view much wildlife including a Sun Fish, Turtles, a Galápagos Hawk, Marine Iguanas, Penguins and Sea Lions.  

I make good use of the time to bring the blog up-to-date.

Back on board only a short break is taken and then it’s back again in the pangas and snorkelling under the high cliff walls for some. This time I do get on board but stay out of the water to be on the safe side as I don’t wish to suffer the indignity of being rushed back to the loo on board Tip Top 2.

The water is still fairly murky but we do gain good views of the Turtles and for the first time ( for me ) two very small Penguins.

Lunch is followed by a long period of relaxation on board during which the boat takes across to the island of Fernandina and Punta Espinoza.

During lunch we have a mass exodus from the dining room as the captain has spotted a Sperm Whale ahead of the boat. Although he ( or she) didn’t put on a spectacular performance we do get a wave of the tail as a finale.

At 3 pm we make a fairly tricky landing in shallow water and set off on a walk along the narrow stretch of land and lava rocks of Punta Espinosa which is home to an huge colony of Marine Iguanas, many of whom are much larger than we have seen to date. Sadly we again ample evidence of the high mortality rate among these unique creatures. The Turtles seem quite content to swim in the pools alongside the Iguanas and we also come across a couple of Sea Lions.

First sightings of Flightless Cormorants, the tiny Lava Lizards and some small Snakes which Sylvia assures Gail are harmless!

At long last we catch sight of the previously elusive Hawk, albeit at a fair distance.

Back on board Tip Top we are treated to the most glorious of sunsets to end what has been a glorious day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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2nd May 2015

Santiago Island

Overnight we have travelled west to Santiago Island and James Bay and our morning excursion takes us along the blackened coastline where lava has eroded. We very soon come across some Fur Seals swimming in the clearest water we have so far seen on this trip.

One could spend all day observing these beautiful creatures but there are Marine Iguanas, Sally Lightfoot Crabs and a solitary Blue Heron to see. Sadly we see ample evidence of the toll climate change has taken on the Iguana population.

After lunch we embark on a walk from the beach at Buccaneer Cove,

at first crossing an open, arid area surrounded by mangrove vegetation before gradually climbing up the deeply wooded slopes above a small lagoon.

We are in search of a hawk which frequents this area but all to no avail. We do come across countless small birds such as Finches and Mocking Birds and Pelicans making spectacular dives into the water.

With both the temperature and the humidity climbing rapidly we are all quite happy to get back into the Panga and head back to Tip Top 2.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Saturday 30th April 2016

Overnight we have made our way north to the island of Santiago and after breakfast we land at the vast Sullivan lava field caused by by a volcanic eruption 200 years ago. Even in this harsh environment plants such as the low- lying mollugo and lava cactus manage to survive. The lava flow has produced an astonishing variety of patterns when pockets of gas or water trapped under the lava exploded.

We later climb to a lookout on the nearby Bartolomew Island, which together with Sullivan Bay was named after the naturalist friend of Charles Darwin, Sir Bartolomew James Sullivan, who was Lieutenant aboard HMS Beagle.

Snorkelling from the beach later in the day not totally satisfactory as the water, especially close in to the shore which is where I usually spend my time is very murky. To make matters worse my snorkel was continually letting in water.

 However, I did manage to provide some entertainment for my fellow travellers when I charged head-on towards what I thought was the slim, streamlined figure of Chandra from Switzerland when snorkelling only to find that I was in fact on a collision course towards a sea lion. Next time I will remember that the sea lion is the one without the snorkel and the bright blue fins!

However, the preparations on board our vessel before snorkelling did provide some entertainment. I was explaining to some of the other passengers that I would be fine in the water if I could wear a wetsuit, a life jacket and those things that fit under your arms. I was struggling to find the word for them when Gail helped out with ” spaghetti “!  ‘Noodle’ was what I was searching for and I suppose one has to be grateful that Mrs I didn’t come up with ‘gnocchi’ or ‘fettuccine’.

Finish off the day with another relaxing dinner and then it’s off to bed after a quick rundown on the next day’s programme from Sylvia.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Sunday 1st May 2016

Genovesa Island

A decidedly rough passage overnight from Bartholemew Island to Genovesa although in our case this did not prevent us from getting a good night’s sleep.

Our first excursion out takes us to El Barranco where after landing we negotiate some very steep steps and make our way through a huge seabird colony.

El Barranco is also called Prince Phillip’s Steps after he visited this spot and probably made a donation to the wildlife cause. Obsequiousness knows no international bounds!

We gain our first close-up of the red-footed boobies which are beautiful looking birds with their  light teal beaks, Nazca boobies ,storm petrels, swallow-tailed gulls and last but not least the great frigate birds. The male of the last- mentioned species is notable for its ability to greatly inflate the red membrane on its chest during the mating season. This will stay inflated for up to 20 days but if no mate is found it will deflate. Very reminiscent of the human race although the 20 days might be a bit optimistic for most men!

Sylvia takes us a quick detour to a small lagoon where we find a single flamingo standing in the shallow water waiting for his/ her luck to change.

Walking along the 25 metre high coastal rock shelf we also gain sight of a number of fur seals.

The afternoon sees us in Darwin Bay slightly north of El Barranco and we land at a black coral beach where a 750 metre trail takes us through more seabird colonies. It’s fascinating to watch the mating rituals of the red-footed boobies in particular and we spend some time observing a particularly aloof female pretending to ignore the overtures of not one but two males.

More red pouch-laden frigate birds are seen resting on rocks or in plants and numerous mocking birds complete the scene.

Finally, we return to the beach where I try on the snorkel set borrowed from Sylvia and although the water is hardly pristine with so much bird life around it’s an opportunity to regain my confidence after the previous day’s snorkelling debacle.

A minor drama as Maria Isobel, Sara Clemencia’s sister is unceremoniously dumped back into the water in trying to board the panga to head back to the boat. However, no damage done to either Maria Isabel or her camera equipment.

We end the day leaning over the rails of he boat and enjoying the remarkable sight of the fish and more particularly a couple of sharks as they move along under the bows of the vessel and illuminated by the ship’s lights.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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