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Archive for the ‘Italy 2012’ Category

Saturday 23rd June 2012.

Great food the previous evening at Il Pozzo restaurant and back at flat in time to see Germany demolish Greece in Euro 2012.

Tony and I sat up till midnight reminiscing over the years when we were world-class footballers and only missed out on being professionals because of the incompetence of the various scouts doing the rounds at the time!

Up relatively early to prepare for checking out of Santa Lucia which has been a fantastic base for the week. We say a very fond farewell to the owner, the vivacious Giovanna, and meet her husband Jens, who is Danish, large, and works in Copenhagen.

Leisurely drive south,initially steering clear of the autostrada and opting for the slower, but more picturesque country roads. Call into Barga, a delightful small town south-east of Castelnuovo , for a coffee break and make a stop at the centuries-old Ponte Della Maddalena over the River Serchio- very impressive.

Finally arrive in our favourite city of Lucca with a few hours to spare for some sightseeing on foot.
Picnic lunch outside the city walls, using up the leftovers from our week at the flat, and then walk into the pedestrian part of the city for drinks at a bar/cafe,served by a grumpy old female who was clearly not impressed that we were taking up a table at lunch for a miserable couple of drinks.
Re-acquaint ourselves with the Piccolo Hotel Puccini where we have stayed before and take a leisurely stroll around the lovely lane ways of Lucca. It has definitely lost none of its charm.

Drive to Pisa Airport uneventful and we say cheerio to Tone and Marg after we know that their luggage is safely checked in.
The week we have had together was everything that we could have wished for and it’s sad that the tyranny of distance limits us to the annual get-together. Still we are more fortunate than most in such a situation.
Back in Lucca we check-in at the hotel after negotiating the impossibly narrow, winding streets in our precious rental car and then park within the city walls , ready for an early start the next day.

Have a delicious dinner at a small restaurant serving food from local products and meet up up with a couple in their 80’s( he on his 4th marriage ) who are still travelling the world and having a ball. Hopefully life begins in the late 60’s!

Sunday 24th June 2012

Modest but OK brekkie at hotel and then ready for the long drive north to Milan to hand in the rental car ( Peugeot ) which has been fantastic in every possible way.

All going according to plan and well ahead of out timetable until we come to fill up with diesel. Being a Sunday all of the service stations are self- service but do not accept credit cards, only cash on a pay in advance basis and give no change. Initially, the machine swallows my 20 euros and gives no fuel in return but after many expletives and coaxing ( more like bullying ) we manage to put in 45 euros worth and as luck would have it it just fills the tank. Judging by the number of motorists in a similar plight we suspect that this is a very lucrative money-spinning exercise for the self-service establishments near to the Airport.
Car duly handed in in time for us to catch train to Milan Central for train to Geneva.

Italy never disappoints and also throws up the usual ‘ Gailisms ‘.
Two came out in the last couple of days:
With the four of us, sitting by the pool,somehow managing to discuss the brutality of the war in Rwanda G commented that the Tutus had indeed been really brutal. Until that time we had all assumed that only the Tutsi and Hutu tribes had taken part but either by virtue of their mode of dress or some real cross-breeding a third participant had obviously come into the picture!

To top that, as we drove through the mountains of north-eastern Italy, Gail commented
that the fast descent into a particular valley was probably why my EYES were popping.
Fortunately, my Marty Feldman impersonation didn’t last too long as we descended my ears stopped popping as well!

On a more serious note the train journey only served to remind us both that Italy and Switzerland are stunningly beautiful countries and the last section along the shores of Lake Geneva, past Montreux, Lausanne and finally into Geneva quite superb.

Taxi driver is reluctant to take us the sort distance to Hotel Kipling and points out that it is only just around the corner. This turned out to be a slight under-statement as the trek took us both, with suitcases in tow, through the most seedy of red light districts imaginable and this blogger was approached by any number of superannuated prostitutes eager to provide me with a ‘massage’.
I was starting to think that if we had to walk much further it might come in quite handy when we arrived at our abode for the next two nights.
Too tired to go out again for a meal Gail,and I both call it a day although I find the energy to watch England in their death throes against Italy in Euro 2012.

Monday 25th June 2012

Fairly overcast day so we have a late start and eventually stroll down to the lake, crossing over the bridge to the Old Town, past the famous water jet and visit the city cathedral and a very large archeological site below the current building. Lunch at a lovely Creperie nearby and then back to the hotel to catch up on some ‘work’ including this blog.

The visit to the Old Town had restored some of our faith in this city as our first impressions on arrival had been distinctly unfavourable. Geneva has become far more multicultural than when I was last here, admittedly in the 1970’s, but rather than embellish the city as this has done in many other places, it has given Geneva a very seedy appearance in some areas. One suspects that the gap between the haves and the have-nots may have widened substantially.

All that remains on this trip is for us to have a quiet dinner out this evening before flying off to Abu Dhabi tomorrow so this old blogger is signing off. Hopefully we will be able to get some photos posted shortly to relieve the boredom of the narrative.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

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Santa Lucia

Sunday 17th June 2012

Another beautiful day, weather wise, so get up at a civilized hour and after breakfast make a bee-line for the swimming pool. Day spent between taking a dip, sunbathing and a quick trip to the Coop store at Pieve Fosciana to get provisions to supplement those purchased the day before.

Tony and I call into the small nearby town of Castiglione and then manage to miss the entrance to Santa Lucia, ending up in the hills below Corfino.

All in all a relaxing day to start the week at this great location.

Monday 18th June 2012.

As Gail has lost the pin to her specs we head into the main town of the Garfagnana , Castelnuovo, where we quickly find a very helpful optician who does the repairs in no time at all and gratis.
Coffee in main square in very noisy cafe.
More shopping at Coop and we now realize that the store is actually not in Castelnuovo but in Pieve Fosciana ( slow learners! ).

Back to our Santa Lucia which is our private agriturismo/resort as the other two apartments are vacant this week.

More relaxation and a quiet dinner out on the patio on a lovely ,balmy evening.

Tuesday 19th June 2012.

After breakfast decide to drive up into the hills above Villa Collemandina for what we hope will be a coffee break at a cafe. This is thwarted by a power outage and after buying some fruit and veggies from little shop in the village we drive back the flat for lunch.

Since arriving we have been catching sight of what we think is a river below our lounge room window so we decide to explore. A short walk towards a very small village, Piannaci, shows us that there is no access to what we now know is a lake so we return in the direction of Villa Collemandina and check out an old dam and hydro facility which is now defunct.

We decide that we have had enough exercise for one day and so it’s back to the flat for the daily dose of sun, swimming, eating and drinking.

Wednesday 20 th June 2012.

The day for a slightly more ambitious travel plan which takes us first to the small historic town of San Romano. Pleasant enough but no suitable cafe for coffee so continue on to Camporgiano where we are able to enjoy a coffee outside overlooking the main square and Rocca ( castle ).

Leaving Camporgiano we manage to find ourselves in a cul- de-sac so we return to Poggio before heading south-west along the beautiful River Edron Valley.
We had been expecting an open valley on the way to our destination of Lago Di Vagli and Vagli Sotto but nothing could have been further from the truth. As we approached the lake and especially after passing the 90 meter dam at its head the surrounding hills closed in and the scenery became increasingly more dramatic

Picnic lunch in a superb spot overlooking Vagli Sotto and during stop at a cafe for icecream I manage to have a very interesting chat with the female proprietor who tells me a great deal about the history of the lake and town . Apparently the building of the dam led to the submersion of the former town of Carregine . This had meant the loss of a church with a number of frescoes and some factories. Evidence of the town can now be seen when on occasions the reservoir water level drops.

Return along the same route to Poggio before driving south-east to cross Lago Di Pontecosi. Slight wrong turn means we end up up in a quarry but eventually find ourselves north of the lake and make the short winding road back to Villa Collemandina.
A long but enjoyable day during which we received constant reminders that this area is truly one of Italy’s best- kept secrets. Virtually tourist-free and offering some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable.

We also received a couple of less- pleasant reminders of the perils of driving in rural Italy with our having to take evasive action on at least two occasions as cars appeared from nowhere from side roads. All adds to the spice of the trip.

Thursday 21st June 2012.

Tone and Marg decide to take things easy after the long and fairly arduous drive of the previous day so Gail and I drive back up into the hills past Corfino to the Orrecchiella Nat Park, under the brooding presence of the Pania Di Corfino ( 1603 meters above sea level ).

On the advice from of a guy in a Refugio at the entrance to the park we start off by tackling the 40 minute walk to the Orto Botanico garden at 1370 meters. This proves to be in a magnificent spot affording views of the surrounding area.

Decide against making the scramble up to the top of the Pania Di Corfino for two reasons- one Gail is not keen on walking on loose shale and two my better half reminds me that titanium knees are not ideally suited to such terrain. Personally, I felt that the reminder was superfluous as I have always been very rational when confronted by such a situation!

The Park Visitor Centre closed ( in the second half of June! ) so head back to the flat for snack and then it’s down to Pieve Fosciana to change some more money, fill up with diesel at $ 2.13 a liter and stock up on provisions.
Lovely chicken dinner on the patio on yet another splendid evening.

End the evening watching Portugal v Czech Repl in Euro 2012.
A goal from the shy self- effacing Cristiano Ronaldo settles the match 1-0. With his lacquered hair he is looking more like Rudolf Valentino every day but there is no denying his talent.

Friday 22nd June 2012

For almost a week now we have driven through the small village of Villa Collemandina without stopping to check out the small square just of the main road to Castiglione so today we walk there in search of a hidden gem. It certainly lived down to expectations and the one restaurant previously recommended to us was closed and up for sale. Nevertheless, the village still retains the tranquil charm of so many such small Italian villages and I’m sure that locals Anjou being far from the madding crowd.

Apart from that just a routine day enjoying all that this property has to offer on another in a long long of beaut sunny days.

On our last night in Italy together with Tone and Marg we are dining out at Il Pozzo in Pieve Fosciana so a report on that tomorrow.

As you can see I have had to catch up on 5 days in one go so apologies for a pretty lack luster effort. I will try to wake up the muse for the last few days of our trip.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Saturday 16th June 2012

Relatively late start as we have the whole day to get to Pisa to collect Tony and Margaret from the airport.
Set off from Modena and we are soon on mountain roads which are winding without being death-defying. Reaching the top of Paso delle Radici we stop for drinks and ice-creams along with hordes of superannuated bikies who are proving that it’s never too late to get on an assortment of very high-performance bikes and life to the full.

Finally arrive at Villa Collemandina and our apartment Santa Lucia to be greeted by Giovanna, the owner. The apartment is set in lovely grounds with a huge swimming pool and stunning views of the surrounding hills. The flat itself is well-appointed and roomy although we do later find some shortcomings with the kitchen utensils.

First stop as we head south is to stock up on provisions for the first few days and then follow the road along the Serchio River, touching the outskirts of the lovely town of Lucca, then on to
Pisa.

Tony and Marg only 10 minutes late from East Midlands Airport but baggage over half an hour coming through. Both of them looking very well and surprisingly sun-tanned after their poor early summer.

Given the relatively late hour when we get back to Santa Lucia we settle for toasted ham and cheese sandwiches ( nothing but the best for our guests! )

No time to really plan for the coming days so off to bed after a tiring day for all concerned.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

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