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Still no water available so yours truly takes a fairly cold dip in the swimming pool to freshen up a little. Quite amusing, in a masochistic sort of way, seeing a constant stream of guests carrying buckets of water to flush down the toilets.

Eventually, someone arrives and replaces a valve in the system which had been damaged by the recent electrical storm. Hot showers all round puts everyone in better frame of mind.

The day used generally to settle in to this magnificent complex and a superb evening meal of a beef casserole is prepared mainly by Bronny Fuller with some assistant from others in her team- all part of the rotation system to be used for the week.

Sit up too late but get a reasonably good night’s sleep.

The Obese Ferret.

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Wake up to a bright sunny day and the sounds of a couple doing what comes naturally ( the walls to the rooms are very thin! ). We go to breakfast, one of the best we have had during the trip, to await the arrival of any couple looking very happy with themselves. The suspects eventually arrive but we decide not to ask them if they had enjoyed their early morning exercise.

Set off up a fairly steep slope to the town centre of Montefalco, which we had visited some years earlier.
The main square remains a stereotypical Italian piazza with the locals enjoying the sunshine but the high level of predominantly British tourists reminds us that we have swopped the quieter Umbria for the far busier Toscana.

Return to the Agriturismo to spend some time by the pool and have a quick lunch. However, ever-darkening clouds persuade us to make a move earlier than we had planned and we are soon on our way north through Foligno, Perugia and along the shores of Lake Trasimeno. Tom Tom who has been so reliable to date becomes totally confused as we leave Montefalco but our faith in him is soon restored as he finally gets back on the freeway in the right direction.

We had dismissed Lake Trasimeno as rather boring on previous trips but on this occasion take a detour to Passignano on the shores of the lake. Pleasantly surprised to find an attractive lakeside town with some fine cafes, gelaterias and park areas.

Travel on the major road past Siena and Poggiponsi to arrive at the location of the property which will be our home for the next week. After a few false starts we finally manage to get through the security gates into the magnificent Podere Barberino in Chianti.

Over the next few hours we meet up with all of our friends from Melbourne and make ourselves at home. Learn the good news that Andrew Fuller proposed to Bec Lindsay in Paris and that they are now engaged.
 Dinner is at a Pizzeria at walking distance to the town and we all enjoy a very good meal, despite the fact that the chef burns his hands on a saucepan, which prevents him from preparing a special pizza for Bridie.

The poor man is in some distress so with my mediocre Italian and Bec’s experience as a paramedic we are able to give him some advice as to how he might alleviate the pain.

Off to bed but not before we discover that there is no water at all in any of the houses. Have to wait until the next day to address the issue.

The Obese Ferret.

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After the rather overcast conditions of the previous day it was great to wake up to sunny skies and higher temperatures.
Pay our bill, thank our kind hosts, Sonia and Alessio, for the previous day’s gifts of sparkling wine, torta and antipasto, and then take some time out to relax by the pool before our journey north-west to Toscana.

Do not leave until close to 1.00 and take motorway in to Ascoli Piceno, road then takes us through numerous gorges to Arquata Del Tronto. We had already decided to take the more daunting road across the  Sibillini mountains to Visso rather than the easier route to Norcia so shortly after leaving ADT we turn north towards Castelluccio.

By this stage the weather had taken a real turn for the worse and by Castelluccio the temperature had dropped from 26 to 9.5 degrees. To say that the road over the mountains was spectacular would be an understatement and yours truly stayed VERY focussed on the road, leaving Gail to point out the various views. Shortly before Castelluccio we arrived at the amazing Piano Grande, a high altitude plain at 1500 metres, which attracts a surprisingly high number of tourists to its horse-riding ranch. Not at all what one would expect in Italy and Le Marche continues to surprise us.

After the Passo del Gualdo at 1596 metres we take the long descent along the River Nera to the town of Visso, passing on the way Castelsantangelo with the most amazing fortress located on a hill above the town.

We then entered the area called the Valnerina, on the Umbrian side of the Monti Sibillini. This beautiful, lush valley presents such a sharp contrast to the harsh mountain regions to the east.

Finally, down on the plains we head for the Festival town of Spoleto and eventually we arrive at Agriturismo Casiano Piccolo under the walls of Montefalco, the so-called Balcone dell’Umbria.
Lovely meal at restaurant and early to bed after very taxing drive.

Le Marche has far exceeded our expectations, with some remarkable, wild scenery,friendly people and lack of tourists. It’s now off to the more tourist-laden Toscana for a week of revelry with the Fullers and the BADWACAS clan.

The Obese Ferret

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Our 38th Wedding Anniversary!
Have haircut at the same hairdresser who had coloured Gail’s hair the day before. Asked him if he could also colour mine but did not have sufficient dye to cover all of the grey!
Set off late morning, heading for Montefortino in the foothills of the Sibillini mountains on the eastern side of the range.
We have run out of superlatives for the scenery in the southern part of Le Marche and Montefortino is another delightful hilltop town. We take a detour along the Ambro river to the sanctuary of the Madonna dell’Ambro. Set a beautiful area surrounded by high peaks this apparently marks the spot where an apparition from the Virgin Mary enabled a young mute shepherdess to speak again. Even an old sceptic like myself has to admit that the bronze statues along the banks of the river to commemorate this event are quite beautiful,especially given their tranquil location.
We stopped to have a picnic lunch by the river and had our own apparition as a group of Italian teenagers descended on the area on what I have come to call ‘Hormone Express’ outings. We have a new-found admiration for the long-suffering teachers.
Further south we drive to the Gola dell’ Infernaccio, a huge deep gorge, reached after a drive and fairly short walk. I ventured slightly further into the gorge than Gail but, surrounded by evidence of numerous landslides I didn’t linger any longer than necessary.

Next stop was the town of Montemonaco, which surpassed any of the previous seen on our trip in terms of its location, perched atop a narrow ridge with very high peaks in all directions, including Mount Vettore, the highest in the Sibillinis at 2476 metres. We decide to forgo a drive to the top of Mt Sibilla, firstly because the road might be tough for the rental and secondly because I am a wimp when it comes to high exposed mountain roads.

We continue on the road south to Arquata del Trento passing through increasingly stunning mountain scenery, arriving back at Ascoli Piceno in time for a pre-dinner drink in the superb Piazza del Popolo.
Wonderful anniversary dinner at La Locandiera, where we are served 7 courses as antipasto and feel so full that we are in danger of going straight from ANTIpasto to POST-mortem!
In the event we go straight to the sweets and some vino cotto ( still not really sure what it was ).

I drive home ( we only have a one driver rental ) very cautiously after too much wine although I feel comforted by one of Gail’s pronouncements that she will assist me on the way home and ” even when I’m drunk I still feel sober”. That wouldn’t sound too convincing in an Australian court so God knows how it would pan out before an Italian judge!

Arrive home at about 10.30 after a truly memorable anniversary day.

The Obese Ferret

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Awake to a beautiful sunny day, a welcome change after a couple of days of inclement weather.

Sonia, daughter-in-law of the owner, calls by to collect Gail and take her to a nearby village, Castel di Lama, to have her hair coloured. I stay back and enjoy an hour and a half by the swimming pool. No chance of a dip as it’s real blue acorn territory ( refer to David Niven’s book ‘The Moon’s a Balloon’ ).
Coffee and cakes on Gail’s return and as hairdresser has done such a good job I decide that it’s time for me to have my locks shorn.
Gail, as always very confident that she knows where the hairdresser is located. We eventually come across them by accident after she has for once lost her much-vaunted ( justifiably ) sense of direction. Make an appointment for next day and drive on minor roads into Ascoli Piceno.

AP is a real delight and the Piazza del Populo, the main square, ranks among the best we have seen in Italy.
Unfortunately, our attempt to soak up the atmosphere by eating in one of the restaurants overlooking the piazza are thwarted by two camerieri who appear to be having a lunchtime feud. After 20 action-free minutes  we move on to a smaller, stylish bistro where are very speedily served with quality food and wine at very reasonable prices.
Gail adds to the overall experience by managing to lock herself in the bistro’s toilet and having to set off an alarm to gain her freedom. Apparently, the automatic door had gone on the blink, although I had no such problems when I went in there a little later!

Parking in AP can be problematic but we managed to find a spot a short walk from the centre. I may have overdone it a little as, stuffing just a few too many coins in the metre, we ended up with parking until 8.40 the next morning. At least we were able enjoy this fabulous place without any fear of parking fines.

G also manages to locate a manicure place as we walk back from a 1st century BC bridge over the river Tronto. I therefore, wander around this superb city for about an hour until the manicure is complete. If nothing else the exercise added to my Italian vocab.
Noticeable how the cities come to life after 5.30/6.00 pm, almost a delayed reaction after the siesta finishes at 3.45 or 4.00 pm.

Home by 8.00 and very light snack before blog/emails.

In bed by 10.30.

The Obese Ferret

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Breakfast, catch up on washing and then walk up to village of Castorano. Shopping from pharmacy and local food store and enjoy coffee in local cafe full of local characters, where we meet an old guy who had spent over 20 years in Manchester and supports Man U. Fancy spending 20 years in a place and still not realising he is following the wrong team-obviously a slow learner. For while it’s enjoyable as he regales us with stories of his time in the UK and makes his views on Signor Bellusconi well known ( all totally negative ).
However, after a while, in true Italian style, he starts to get a bit too friendly, especially towards Gail, and we take our leave, returning to the house to a lunch of prosciutto, cheese and lovely fresh bread.

In the afternoon we decide to visit the slightly larger town of Offida, about 12 kms from Castorano. The town itself is attractive as many hilltop towns are but it appears to be home to a very large number of unsavoury characters ( excluding the Irelands ). Moreover, the town looks neglected, without the community pride so evident in  many of the smaller  towns.

Return to pizzeria in Castorano  for huge meal of antipasto and pizza.

Two bloated bodies turn in at about 10.30

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Pay our bill and say our goodbyes to our wonderful hosts Jenny and Mauro who have given us a stay to remember. We receive a parting gift from Jenny of a bottle of local red wine and a jar of honey, a lovely surprise.
Pietra Rosa represents the best of what agriturismo should be all about- superb location, home-cooked food from local produce generous, genial hosts who clearly enjoy what they are doing.

Our first port of call is to Gola del Furbo which in sunnier weather looks quite magnificent. We meet up with two groups of schoolchildren out on educational tours and they remind us that kids are the same the world over, noisy, happy, mischievous, a challenge for their teachers and a joy to observe.

From Fossombrone we decide to take a detour on the freeway to Fano, a coastal resort on the Adriatic.
To describe the beach as a disappointment is the understatement of the century. Gail’s view in her usual subtle way ” the worst beach I’ve ever seen”. Hard to argue with her assessment as the ‘beach’ is totally made up of pebbles and even worse is covered with literally 1000’s of brightly coloured beach umbrellas, currently unused but no doubt lying in wait for the ever-eager sun-seekers who will descend on the resort during the summer season. We leave Fano as quickly as possible, realising how blessed we are in Aus to have such coastal areas.

Continue to just south of Ancora where we head towards the south-west and the beautiful hilltop town of Macerata. For once the Lonely Planet has it right- Macerata is one of Italy’s better kept secrets and is just as impressive as many Umbrian and Tuscan hill towns, but without the hordes of tourists.

Leaving Macerata we drive on to Sarnano through increasingly impressive scenery as the mountains of the Sibillini National Park come into view, still snow-capped although we are now well into spring.
After passing through the pretty village of Amandola we pick up the major road east towards our final destination of the Agriturismo Castrum at Castorano, a seemingly simple end to our day!
Wrong again! Tom Tom has been doing a great job all day and duly led us to our B and B by 7.30. He wasn’t to know that the owner does not live at the accommodation so we had a bit of a wait while the owner’s husband who was working in the fields phoned his wife to let us into our apartment.

Castrum is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards with snow-covered mountains in the distance and the self-catering apartment comes with all mod cons, BBQ and swimming pool although the weather is not co-operating at present. After Pietra Rosa this establishment appears rather more regimented and less of a real ‘agriturismo’. However, as we find out during the evening and the next day Guiseppina Maolini, the owner, is kindness itself and does everything possible to make our stay comfortable.

Given the lateness of the hour, and the fact that my prosthetic right knee is suffering from driving a manual car over narrow winding roads for about 7 hours, we decide to eat part of next day’s breakfast and get a good night’s sleep.

The Obese Ferret.

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Breakfast a bit earlier than on previous days so that Gail could catch up on emails, banking etc while I took some time out to phone an Italian friend who lives south of Venezia to explain why on this trip we could not get to see them. 
Eventually, left the house at about 11.00 am and headed south towards Fossombrone to see a couple of sights featured prominently in local guide books. The first one was Marmitte dei Giganti or Giants’s Potholes on the Metauro River. This is really a limestone gorge about 30 metres deep which has been carved out by the water over many centuries and is quite an impressive sight.
As the first spots of rain for weeks arrived we decided to drive along a back road to the town of Fossombrone for some lunch- easier said than done as the whole place appeared to have shut down but we finally managed to find a bar serving some fairly poor pastries and coffee. Set off again to see the second of the famous sites in the area, the Gola del Furbo, ( The Throat of Furbo )a magnificent gorge along the Metauro river. Unfortunately, the weather had closed in by this time and although through the heavy rain we were able to appreciate the beauty of the area we decided to head for home and return the next day for a second viewing.
Rest of afternoon spent with Gail sorting out a slideshow from the Croatian photos and generally just relaxing. Another superb dinner from Jenny, whose creativity never ceases to amaze us and a quick chat with a couple from Rotterdam who proved to be far more affable than the 4 Italians who were also in the dining room. I ate rabbit for the first time in 50 years ( quite delicious ) after overcoming a long-held prejudice from my early years.
A relatively early night in preparation for the journey south the next day to Ascoli Piceno.
The Obese Ferret.

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Later start than usual so we only set off for San Marino at about 10.00am.
When we had told Jenny our host at Pietra Rosa that we intended to drive to San Marino she merely said “ Why ? “. Basically because it’s there and we had heard so many negative reports about this, the 3rd smallest state in the world after the Vatican and Monaco, that we had to check it out for ourselves.
Sure enough, it is something of a caricature, has a greater density of kitsch souvenirs than any other place we have visited and resembles something of a theme park. However, there is no denying that its location atop of a rocky outcrop is truly breathtaking, with 360 degree views across the surrounding areas.
As it has only one main street the visit to this nation state was over in one hour but we were both pleased to have taken the detour to this oddity at the southern tip of Emilia Romagna.
Rather than face another drive on the roadworks-plagued A 14 freeway we headed west from San Marino through some superb mountain scenery to the town of San Sepolcro. What followed next was the surprise of the day as the switchback road up from San Sepolcro to Urbania proved to be on a par with such a road as Trollstigsveien in Norway, the famous road near to the world-famous Geiranger Fjord.
The purpose of the visit to Urbania was merely to see the original home of the Centro Studi Italiani, an organisation founded by a Signor Pasotti, which now has a branch in Carlton, Melbourne, where I had attended classes over the past 3 years.
Back at Pietra Rosa for yet another fine evening meal and then on to this blog.
As we did not have any ‘Gailisms’ for the day I thought I would backtrack a couple of days when we were trying to remember the name for the boats that ply their trade on the canals of Venice ( not the gondolas ). Gail ventured that they might be ‘vendettas’ or something similar. They are in fact called ‘vaporettos’ but the thought of anyone ordering a’ vendetta’ for a while,especially in the land of the ‘Cosa Nostra’ and ‘ ndragheta’ certainly conjured up a very interesting image!
Cheers for now.
The Obese Ferret

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We welcome the less elaborate but healthy breakfast served,after weeks of the heavier variety and after taking up Jenny’s offer to wash our clothes in her washing machine we set off on a short hike up the hills above Pietra Rosa, from which vantage point we are able to truly appreciate its unbelievable setting.
Return to house in good time to hang out the washing and then head off to the Renaissance city of Urbino.
Urbino is viewed as one of the jewels of Le Marche and on this our second visit there we are reminded once again of what it has to offer in terms of architecture, ambience ,culture and location. In contrast to Bologna it demonstrates what can be achieved with a communal sense of pride and commitment.
Back to Pietra Rosa to sort out the washing and then relax until dinner with a bit of reading and blog-writing. Also spend some time on what is becoming a popular pastime-finding the numerous factual errors in the Lonely Planet guide books. 
Jenny prepared a great meal for us which includes cinghiale ( wild boar ) and battered elderberry flowers!
Only 4 guests in the dining room and not a word was spoken between ourselves and the young Italians at the next table. We are rapidly learning that the Italians are nowhere near as gregarious as one might imagine, with our host Jenny being the exception. 
Amusing moment over dinner when Gail mentioned that she might like a boiled egg for breakfast the next day. The expression for boiled egg is uova alla coque which in itself is unremarkable but when she added that she would probably ask for a soft uova alla coque I wasn’t really sure whether it was a reflection of our 38 years of marriage or a glimpse of what is to come as I enter my dotage!
The Obese Ferret.

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In fact , Gail had not done her computer work the previous evening and we decided instead to have dinner at a superb organic food restaurant serving very high quality fare in a lovely atmosphere.
After breakfast we head off to Europcar to check out our 21 day car rental, deciding to delay the pick-up time until 3.00 pm. ( in true Italian style they take a siesta from 12.45 till 3.00. Gail on computer for some time back at hotel, after which we do our overdue walking tour of Bologna.
Bologna has some wonderful buildings and magnificent arcades and porticos but we are left with the feeling that there is no real pride in the city. Graffiti abounds ( or should it be abound? ) and many of the streets and alleys are quite simply disgustingly dirty. A teacher would comment “ could do better”.
One highlight was, however, a visit to La Sorbetteria Castiglione, which has been voted the best gelateria in Italy by the Concorso Internazionale di Gelaterie. Fantastic selection and quality.

Collect car from Europcar and delighted to find that we have a BMW 120D with only 249 kms on the clock. Gail at first thinks the guy at the counter is joking as we have booked merely a compact vehicle. Whilst the BMW is certainly compact it is a great little car with plenty under the bonnet, especially in the lower gear range.
Drive down to Urbino uneventful until we get closer to the Agriturismo and Gail starts to doubt Tom Tom. After going round in circles with a map lacking in detail we ( read Gail )decide that he is after all a man to be trusted and we arrive at Pietra Rosa Agriturismo by 6.40 pm. The owners Jenny ( real Italian name Grazia ) and husband Mauro are delightful people and the B and B is in the most spectacular position high above a valley. Their dog, Baoli ( a Chinese name of unknown origin) takes a dislike to both of us but after trying to chew off one of my fingers and having a go at Gail’s legs ( obviously a canine with no taste as I think that she posseses some very nice pins ) he settles down to being merely somewhat on the nose.
Jenny speaks excellent English but I am able to practice my inadequate Italian on Mauro.
They prepare an excellent dinner with home produce, although Mauro burns his special sausages on the first attempt and the whole meal is washed down with a very tasty red from Moltepulciano. As his very rich sausages prove too much for my notoriously fragile digestive system it would perhaps have been better if he had set the whole kitchen on fire!
In bed at a respectable hour to allow our still sore limbs more time to recover.

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After breakfast Alan collects us from the Agriturismo and takes us in the van back to the railway station in Trieste from where we take the train to Venezia. We get off at Venezia Mestre while Cath and Ian continue on to Venezia S. Luzia for a 3 day stay in Venice ( meeting up with Doug and Brenda Field ).
We catch a Eurostar train from Venezia to Bologna, journey memorable, not for any interesting scenery, but by two elderly Italian ladies who clearly not reserved any seats ( seat reservation is compulsory on Eurostar ) and were moved on any number of times in a game of musical seats as passengers claimed their correct places. By half an hour out of Venezia we were eventually all settled in for the journey.
Arrive at Bologna to find that the Hotel Star Excelsior was just across the road from the station, a real relief as we were heavily laden with luggage and still somewhat footsore from the 310 kms cycling tour.
No walking tour of the city this evening so Gail does some internet work and after meal we are off to bed.
Roll on the Italian Experience!
The Obese Ferret.
PS. For any new readers of these blogs the ‘Obese Ferret’ name was given to me after I told my nephew Andy that I had put on a small amount of weight.

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Breakfast at 8.00 in the superb old Konoba Marino where we have spent the night. One the best hotels on this trip, beautifully appointed and stylish antique bedrooms.
Cath understandably reluctant to take any risks which might spoil the remaining weeks of their holiday so decides to also give the cycling a miss for another day.
We all take a little time out to explore this superb old fortified town, with its unique setting high above the surrounding countryside.
There are a few ups and downs as we cycle through some very pleasant undulating scenery. Certainly this gives us some respite from the brutal climbs of previous days.
This relaxing, gentle cycling continues until we reach the ruins of Dvigrad,set high above the Lim Valley. Dvigrad was once an Istrian town controlling the road leading from the Lim Valley to the east but the last inhabitants left in the mid-17th century.
Steep descent to the valley floor,inevitably followed by an ascent on the western side of the gorge up to the village of Mrgani. Climb fairly long but less arduous than many others encountered on this trip.
After passing through any number of unremarkable small villages we finally arrive back at Klostar and the Agriturismo Matosevic, from where we had started our 7 day cycling adventure.
Usual fine home-cooked meal in the restaurant and some reminiscing over old times before turning in at about 10.00 pm.
Croatia has been a real surprise packet for all of us with the spectacular scenery surpassing all expectations and we leave this lovely country with a lasting impression of a nation finally finding her feet after the tragedy of the Balkan wars. 
There is an enormous amount of untapped potential,especially in the area of tourism and one can only hope that it will still remain ‘the mediterranean as it once was” for some time in the future.
Now off to Italy after another immensely enjoyable holiday experience  from the Irelands/Smiths stable which brought you The Overland Track, Tasmania, the Great Ocean Walk, Victoria and the Milford Sound and Routeburn tracks, New Zealand. 
Watch this space for news of more adventures with the  Travelling Wrinklies!
The Obese Ferret.

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 I wake up very early and take an early morning stroll down to the seafront of Rabac, well ahead of the tourist hordes.
It is a beautiful town and as the advertising slogan says’ Croatia- how the Mediterrean used to be’. Long may it continue.
Breakfast at 8.00 with the news that Cath is suffering from ailments, which much to her disappointment, prevent her from cycling today. Alan will take her to Grascisce and we will meet her at the end of the day.
In view of the dangers inherent in cycling up from Rabac to Labin we take up Alan’s offer to drive us to Labin.
After stocking up with food for the day we leave Labin and travel through some very pleasant rural areas until we reach Gologorica Dol where we stop for our picnic lunch.
We then embark on the steepest and toughest climb we have encountered ( 10% ) so far, up to  Gologorica village. All three of us are exhausted by the time we reach the top, with Gail in particular somewhat distressed from the heat and the exertion of such a gruelling climb.
More very pleasant rural scenery before we reach Pazin and start a tortuous climb in the direction of Gracisce, our overnight destination.
If the gradient of the climb were not enough, the volume of traffic, including some very large semi-trailers, made this section truly scary. However, we all arrived at the top unscathed with Gail doing a sterling job in such trying circumstances.
Arrive at the historic town of Gracisce by 5.30 and after catching up on the washing we meet in the hotel restaurant for a very pleasant meal.
Event of the day- Gail toppling off her bike while almost stationary on the verge of the road into a ditch in a slow- motion swan dive of which Margot Fonteyn would have been proud, followed by my bag falling off my bike shortly thereafter. For some reason my comment that “ I had lost two bags within 200 metres did not go down very well with my better half”!
Bed after writing up blog till midnight.

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Earlier start than usual with breakfast at 7.00 am although our original plan had been to leave the hotel at 6.30 and forgo breakfast. ( More of the repercussions of this decision later )
Leaving the town of Buzet we almost immediately started the long climb up out of the valley. Along the way we came across a fellow who had spent 5 years in Melbourne and who wanted to have a good long chat about all manner of subjects. His father soon appeared to join in on the conversation and we managed to converse through a mixture of Italian, pigeon English and one or two Croat words.
Gail was delighted to receive a Mother’s Day phone call from Craig about 6 kms into our VERY long climb up to a plateau. Gail explained after the call that she was exhausted from  eating a Twix bar and rushing to find her mobile when it suddenly rang.This came as a bit of a surprise to the rest of us as we always assumed that, in common with the others in our team, the fatigue was a result of the 150+ kms we had covered through some very tough terrain! Craig highly amused to be told that we had covered less than 5 kms in 2 hours!
Eventually, we pass very close to the border with Slovenia and then continue on to the aptly named town of Slum in the area of Cicarija. This region apparently has a harsh climate and is now a very sparsely populated area.
More climbing up to the plateau, soon reaching Gorna Nugla from where we had our first rather hazy sight of Istria’s highest mountain,Vojak ( 1396 metres )
At 18.1 kms we arrive at the lovely town of Roc,inhabited since prehistoric times.
In the Middle Ages Roc was the centre of Glagolitic writing. Glagolitic was the first Slavic alphabet and does not correspond to any European or Asian script.
Roc is a beautifully maintained town and on this day market stalls lined the streets, presenting a real carnival atmosphere.
Sadly, time constraints prevented us from spending more than a few minutes in Roc when we really needed a couple of hours to do justice to this fine town.
Shortly after leaving Roc we enter the Glagolitic Avenue, which covers an area of 7 kms and is dedicated to the scholars of Glagolitic writing.
At 25.7 kms we find ourselves in the town of Hum, reputedly the smallest town in the world . ( there are no doubt many attention-hungry towns which make a similar claim. )Nevertheless we enjoy our picnic lunch in this very picturesque,touristy town,perched high above the surrounding areas.
Boljun is reached at the 40 kms mark and this ancient fortified town was once the setting for the film ‘The Last Road to China’.
By now the weather has taken a turn for the worse and we are hit by a severe squall and the ever-darkening skies bring on the realisation that we run the risk of not completing the full 80 kms to Rabac before darkness ( the bikes have no lights ).
However, we press on to Vozilici and Krsan and decide to see if we can reach Nedescina, where we would make a decision on whether to call Alan, the tour operator, for an emergency pick-up  to take us on to Rabac, our destination for the night.
The general consensus is that we should make the call, as it is now clear that we will not make Rabac in time. Alan arrives to collect us from Krsan and we duly arrive in Rabac at shortly after 8.30 pm.
With benefit of hindsight, the pick-up call was the only option as apart from the lack of daylight and  the fatigue of the group  the road  down from Labin to Rabac proved to be very dangerous for cyclists.
Average meal at the hotel and then off to bed at the end of a very long day ( 64 kms covered ) with the news that Chelsea have lost to Man U 2-1, assuring the latter of their 19th Premier League title.
Moment of the day- When we arrive in Hum I come across a group of Germans having their photographs taken in front of the Hum sign. I make a comment to them in German and one of them remarks that I must be Swiss ( not the first time that my slightly Swedish accent when speaking German has confused people ). Sitting on my bike I tell them that I have in fact come from Australia. “ surely not all the way from Australia on that bike” one of them shouts out! I am still not sure if he was joking.

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A group of singers who sounded like the Red Army choir kept us awake in the early hours of the morning and local workman took on the insomniacs’ shift by making a hell of a noise   long before any normal person would have been out and about.
Montovun one of the real jewels of Istria,with its truly magnificent position above the surrounding countryside and lovely old buildings.
Set off down to the valley below the town and soon starting climbing up testing slopes towards Karojba and Pazin. A real shock to the system at this early hour. Over the next few hours it was really a question of ups and downs as the tour operator had warned us.
Eventally descend to the valley floor and the site of the Jezero Butoniga reservoir.
Picnic near the dam wall in idyllic surroundings lulled into a false sense of security as there followed a truly brutal cycling/walking climb northwards towards the city of truffles, Buzet.
We arrived at the top of climb suffering variously from nausea,burning limbs,sore backs and all manner of other afflictions. Only marginally less gruelling  than the first day’s  Groznjan climb.
However, once at the top we were rewarded by a long descent, at speed, down to Buzet.
The Hotel Fontana adequate but hardly up to the standard of the Hotel Kastel at Montovun.
Quick pizza dinner then back to the hotel only to find that there is a Croatian party going on 2 floors below rooms,and an incredibly on at that.
I’m finishing this blog at 10.45 pm and the shindig is still going full bore and sounding more and more like something from a Butlins’ Holiday Camp.
So it’s goodnight from me and goodnight from them!

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Set off at about 8.30 after very good breakfast to cycle through the hills northwest Istria. We soon find out that grocery shops are thin on the ground and Ian and I are obliged to take a relatively short but testing climb up to Oprtalj, a very impressive hilltop town, where we stock up on provisions while the ladies wait for us along the main road. At Ian’s suggestion we buy ice-creams as a surprise and these are well received by the girls.
Have a picnic lunch under vine groves on a wooden bench in a quaint village.
Noticeable that there seems to be less wealth in the farming community in these parts with quite a lot of manual work carried.
Mid-afternoon we come across the ruins of a medieval castle at Opatija and stop at a konoba ( local restaurant ) where we are served with drinks and some delicious pancakes. The food takes far longer than expected to arrive but proves to be well worth the wait.
The owner tries to fiddle me out of some change and pays the price as I Ieave him a far smaller tip than I would normally ( as Gail will attest I am usually fairly generous in that regard )
Descend again to the Mrna River valley and make the long steep ascent to the beautiful hill-top town of Montovun.
Hotel Kastel was formally a Venetian palace and makes for a very welcoming site after a fairly taxing day of cycling.
Day ends with a superb meal in the restaurant.
Another Smithy moment of the day- During a discussion on the importance of wearing bright coloured clothes for safety reasons Smithy  points out that he doesn’t need to as he has such a colourful personality compared with the rest of us! When we explained that this would not be immediately clear to a driver heading his way at 100 kms per hour he said we had overlooked his natural ‘aura’ which was visible from some distance. Hopefully we won’t need to put this theory to the test.
Ian and Cathy have been put into a ‘special’ room in some sort of attic on the third floor and the only special thing about is that the shower doesn’t work properly, the promised top floor view was obscured by a huge tree and Ian had to use bandaids to cover up a blue light on their air conditioning unit which was flashing above their bed.
Turn in early to prepare for next day’s heavy bout of cycling.

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Breakfast at 8.00 and then off on the bikes, heading north through Istria.
Beautiful scenery so reminiscent of Tuscany but without the tourists. For the most part the cycling is not too taxing although Cath has some problems with her gears slipping. Ian offers to test it out for her and his response to my question as to how the test had gone was a Smithy classic ” well, it’s got better brakes than mine”, presumably designed to reassure Cath that if the faulty gear change does cause her to have an accident the top-class brakes will stop it from being fatal.
We stop at the small town of Visnjan for coffee and mid-afternoon take a roadside break for a quick picnic before making the rather hair-raising descent to the Mirna river. ( the high number of fast-moving trucks etc only adds to the risk factor and it is not an experience enjoyed by Gail and Cath in particular).
After crossing the river we start the tortuous 6 km climb up to the beautiful hilltop town of Groznjan along a gravel road. Cath and Gail push their bikes to the top, a real achievement given the terrain, hot weather and the steep incline. Ian reaches the top through a mixture of cycling and walking and although I cycle most of the way the climb beats me as well near the summit and its Shanks Pony for me for a section.
Groznjan is a magnificent hilltop town, quite the equal of any in Italy, and the views across the valley of the River Mirna are breathtaking.
After a cold drink at a bar we continue on the town of Buje and the nearby hotel Parenzana.
Great dinner and drinks before we drag our decidedly weary limbs off to bed at 10.00pm.
Only a few hundred more kms to go!

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After breakfast I go along with Ian ( as interpreter ) to a computer shop nearby as Ian had been having some problems connecting with the internet. Arrive there to find that the shop only opens at 3.30 pm for a few hours which seems to be taking the siesta culture a bit far.
Pack our backs and await the arrival of the mini-bus to take us to Klostar, the starting point for our 7 day bike tour of Croatia.
The bus eventually arrives at 11.30 after the driver, a Serb called Mira, had had some problems in locating
our hotel.
About a 2 hour drive which takes us out of Italy into Slovenia and then into Croatia. A minor delay at the Slovenia/Croatia border when the official notices that Cath and Ian did not have their passport stamped when entering Italy ( due to a lax official who had become embroiled in an argument with another traveller)
Gail and I both agreed that if they were detained they were on their own! This gesture of antipodean solidarity was much appreciated by the Smiths.
Arrive at our agriturismo in Klostar to be met by Milka Makosevic, the owner and a very pleasant lady.
Alan from the cycling tour operators calls in mid-afternoon to provide with a briefing, maps and introduce us to our bikes. I have decided to call mine Pippa as it is a Swedish word for f….. and that is probably how I will feel by the end of the trip!
After much testing we decide on our 4 bikes from a selection of 6. Predictably, Smithy gets some hi-tech
 beast with adjustable handlebars, an ejector seat and a vibrator which massages his rear end as he cycles along. The rest of us have the equivalent of 2 wheel penny farthings.
Milka serves us with her own local white wine which is truly terrible but the lady means well.
Dinner in the evening at Milka’s restaurant is a veritable 4 course feast and her red wine is a marked improvement on the earlier white offering.
We waddle off to bed for a good night’s sleep in preparation for the next day’s baptism of fire on the bikes.

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Tuesday 3rd May

Late breakfast and then back to the city centre, stopping at the main square again for coffee at cafe Audace.
Cath and Ian then retrace our steps by visiting the Castello di San Giusto.
Rendezvous again at 3.00 for more gelato and then a tram ride up to the hills above the city. Magnificent views of Trieste from the north-east.
Fine dinner at the Buffet da Siora Rosa and then back to hotel for respectably early night.

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