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Monday 2nd May

Woke up to remember that this decrepit old blogger had left out a few items from the previous day’s events.
Firstly, during our train journey from Venice to Trieste I was in the process of trying to delete missed and inadvertently called Craig not once but 3 times. Under normal circumstances this would have been sign of fatherly affection from across the world but unfortunately it was 3.00 am in Melbourne. A semi-comatose son had readily concurred with my observation that it was probably a bit early to be calling him and the conversation was one of the shortest ever from overseas!
I also managed to overlook the fact that on arrival in Trieste G and I had taken a stroll down the lovely Viale XX Settembre, close to the hotel and had enjoyed pasta and a drink at Madisons, a convivial bar/bistro.
Most of the above does not make for riveting reading but I didn’t wish to leave any info from my blog.
Monday a very fine day weather-wise so head off straight down to XX Settembre to indulge ourselves with gelato at Madisons. They are closed all day Monday so we check out a gelateria nearby where a truly miserable b. of a woman grudgingly serves us one scoop each of some very tasty gelato ( she appeared to be disdainful at the small value of our purchase.)
Embark on a walking tour of Trieste which turns out to be a very impressive city in a wonderful location. The Piazza dell’Unita dell’Italia is a magnificent area opening out on to the harbour front.
Next stop is the Castello di San Giusto, set high above the city and offering a glorious view of the city and the surrounding area. Unfortunately, it takes a very steep climb up steps to reach the castle but we comfortourselves with the thought that it is all good training for our Croatian cycle tour.
Back in town we enjoy a snack at another cafe on XX Settembre, explore more of the city centre and end the day dining at one of the many small restaurants just back from the waterfront and sharing a bottle of wine in a very short period of time.
After receiving a text from Ian Smith advising us of their ETA at the hotel in Trieste we hurry back to meet them, in a slightly tipsy state.
It’s great to see them again looking well if a little jet-lagged. They are keen to have a bite to eat so we go off to a pizza bar on the ever-popular XX Settembre.
Turn in early only for Cath to set off the alarm in her shower, not once but twice, thinking that it was a cord for the light. The alarm is designed for emergencies, mainly with old people in mind ,so at least it served the purpose for which it was installed!
Another Gail moment- I was complaining that she wanted to learn more Italian but would never respond to me when I tried to speak some Italian to her. She explained that she she was very happy for me to speak but I should not expect a response. Conclusion- I may as well talk to the bedroom wall or to a mirror as Gail kindly suggested as it will be just as productive.

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10.00am flight with BA to Gatwick and after a few hours in a very comfortable BA lounge fly on to Venice, arriving in time to take a bus into Venice Mestre railway station and catch the 18.23 train to Trieste.
Flat,uninspiring country as we head east from Venice but as we approach Trieste  the landscape changes markedly with glimpses of snow-covered mountains near Cortino d’Ampezzo and a high escarpment to the north of the railway line.
Take a taxi to our hotel, House 5 in Via Giulia, and we are taken to the cleaners by our charisma-minus taxidriver who must be distantly related to Silvio Berlosconi. Both of us too tired and/or dumb to register that he charged us 11 euros when the meter showed 6!
Hotel in a very pleasant part of Trieste and spacious rooms very well appointed.
Go to bed happy in the knowledge that Man United have lost to Arsenal so will have something interesting to say to Smithy when he and Cath arrive the next day.
Other momentous news- Osama bin Laden has supposedly been killed in Pakistan by USA team and his body has been buried at sea. Will reserve our judgement until we are drip-fed more info by the USA.

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Say goodbye to Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue and spend the morning in Oban before catching the train back to Glasgow.
The journey back gives us an even better idea of the what a truly beautiful country Scotland is and what draws so many people to this part of the world, especially as they get closer to retirement or semi-retirement.
Bus to the airport to book into Holiday Inn Express Hotel. Not exactly 5 star but more than adequate and very convenient.
Another early night so we must by now have eaten into our sleep deficit!

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Time to pack up and leave the Colonsay locals to their peace and quiet.
Morning spent downloading photographs and packing clothes etc before calling two of Ian and Trina’s friends, John and Pauline to watch the Royal Wedding!
As always the Brits do pageantry superbly and the young couple look very happy as they embark on their life of papparazzi, luxury and no doubt all manner of stresses and strains.
My views on the monarchy are well known but from my vantage point on the sofa, shared with messieurs Wood and McMorrine it was good to see the country receiving such a lift from the happy, if anachronistic event.
Gail and I walk from Machrins to Scalasaig and trek to the monument up above the town, returning to enjoy a snack at The Pantry.
Final drinks at the hotel before boarding the ferry back to Oban at 7.35 pm.
Very sad to say goodbye to all the friends with whom we had shared a memorable week on the island, although with Doug and Jan, Rob and Sam and Lee and Karenna due to come to Aus later this year we will receive constant reminders of our misdemeanours during the previous 8 days!
Book into guesthouse Alltavona, situated along the seafront, together with Lee and Karenna, Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue.
First truly early night since arriving on Colonsay on 22nd April.

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After slightly cloudy start the day clears up once again.
Andrew and Jan Mac give us a lift to Colonsay House, home of the laird, and although the house and gardens are not officially open at the time we manage to enter through the’ back door’,so to speak and do our own mini tour while the Macs visit friends on the island.
Leaving Colonsay G and I take a very enjoyable walk back to Scalasaig via Beinn nan Gudairean. 360 degrees views as we reach the top of the climb.
Meet up again with Doug and Jan in Scalasaig so stop at the hotel for a few more drinks, in spite of the barman who lacks charisma, to say the least. Doug correctly springs to his defence by pointing out that the guy behind the bar is probably just frustated by the tight rein coming from the owner, namely the laird’s wife. Sadly, the hotel is on a downward spiral at present and is failing to cash in on its undoubted potential.
Gavin at the Pantry is at present is the beneficiary of their decline.
We return to Machrins to assist Gavin and his helpers to dismantle the marquee and then more lazing about in the garden.
Usual superb meal prepared by Jan Mac, Jan Forson with some help from Gail on the sweets for our farewell Colonsay dinner. This is held for the first time in the dining room around the large round table and the 8 of us are joined by Ian and Christine Harding and David and Sarah,owners of the Balnahard Farm.
A very convivial end to the day again around the open fire and just for once a reasonably early night.

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A bit of a lie-in on another beautiful day, albeit one with a very cold wind blowing.
Drive Kiloran Bay carpark with Andrew and Jan McMorrine and Stromer ,Ian and Trina’s lovely gentle labrador and set off to walk to Balnahard Beach on north of the island. Unfortunately Stromer, after a long walk the day before, decides to down tools after a while and ‘persuades’ us that we should stop at the northern end of Kiloran Bay.
Eventually, we meet up with Ian and Trina on the beach after they have been to the jetty to see off Malcolm Chapman ( Lee’s Father ) who had had to return to Yorkshire for work reasons.
Wine and snacks on the beach after which we walk up to Cill-a-Rubh, the house where Lee and Karenna are staying. The views from the house are truly superb and the visit affords us the opportunity to see some of Andrew’s remarkable drawings of local identities.
Return home to relax over more drinks before great chilli con carne meal cooked by Doug and Jan.
Off to Colonsay Hotel for a Quiz Night which had been totally slanted towards the younger generation ( Karenna using her position as the new bride! ). Our team of geriatrics comes last with only 11.5 out of 50, not really surprising as we have never heard of the most of the rock bands featuring in the questions.
Late drinks around the table back at Machrins where we endeavour to solve all of the immigration problems of the world over still more alcohol.
In bed by 2.00 am leaving Andrew and a decidedly sleepy Doug to stay up for another 11/2 hours.  

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A bitterly cold morning but up at 6.30 am to see off many guests including Jimmy and Janet Primrose,Donald and Helen Warden, Rita ( Trina’s mum ), her sister Ingrid and her husband Paul.
9.30 trip to the island  of Islay on 2 motor boats, with 12 on each. 45 pounds per head including the boat trip, bus on Islay and guided tour of the Bowmore Distillery.
Very rushed lunch and then back on boat by 2.15 for trip back to Colonsay on a by now glorious day.
Some info for trivia nights- our boat uses 60 to 80 litres of fuel per hour whilst the lifeboat that passes us uses an amazing 430 litres per hour.
Islay a lovely island but far more developed than Colonsay which is in comparison is a real haven of tranquility. Little wonder that Ian, Trina and their friends keep coming back for more.
Late afternoon spent relaxing in the garden at Machrins which seems very quiet with only 8 of us left.

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Another fine day!
Most of the Machrins go to Village Hall to clean up after the ceilidh but I play 17 holes of golf with Tony and Dave. Shoot about 90 ( par 70 ) so quite happy as I have Ian’s father’s blade clubs. Course in somewhat better condition than in 2009 with fewer thistles but I don’t expect to see it as a venue for the British Open in the foreseeable future.
At 4.00 drive down with other wedding guests to the Strand, a stretch of land between Colonsay and Oronsay, which may only be crossed at low tide.
Glorious walk makes for a lovely walk to the Oronsay Priory where we enjoy sacrilegious sandwiches and bubbly while sitting under ancient cross.
Back to Machrins and then off to Machrins Beach where the youngsters had set up a beach BBQ. Special experience with all the Chinese lanterns dotted about the dunes although at first sight we appeared to have walked in a Ku Klux Klan meeting!
Evening ends in tragi-comedy as Doug totally legless ( he had been drinking scotch through the afternoon )
by the end of the evening. We were then treated to the spectacle of Doug, assisted by an almost incapable Ian and a very sensible Rob ( Sam Wood’s partner ) making a very precarious way back to the vehicle, which Doug’s wife Jan was to drive home. At one stage D an Ian tried to take a short cut up a bank which was more akin to the north face of the Eiger with both falling face first into the sand. Ian’s reassurance to me that ” I’m not as bad as you think I am ” only added to the hilarity of the occasion.
Finally back at Machrins Andrew, Ian ( now semi-sober ) Jan and I manage to  manhandle the dead weight of Doug up the stairs and ono the bed.
Doug subsequently falls out of bed but he apparently has a very good night’s sleep. His powers of recovery are of Olympic proportions.
In bed by 2.00 am

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Friday 22 April

Another clear if chilly day.
All the group meet for breakfast at 9.00 and Graham offers to store our unneeded items while we are on the island- offer gratefully accepted.
Head off into the lovely town of Oban where we again meet up with some of the youngsters attending the wedding.
Renew our acquaintance with old friends, Doug and Jan Forson from Edinburgh and meet for the first time Andrew and Jan McMorrine who hail from Skye and will be sharing the house on Colonsay.
Big buy- up of food and drink,especially the latter then off to the jetty for the 2 hour trip to Colonsay.
Sea like a millpond and we have the added bonus of seeing The Waverley, the last remaining paddle steamer in operation in this area.
Doug has made arrangements for the soon-to-be bride and groom to visit the bridge, a real highlight for them.
Arrive in Colonsay to be met by a large crowd and a young piper, Lewis who pipes the couple on shore. More of the remarkable Lewis later.
Ian and Trina take us off to Machrins, our home for the next week, where we meet up with the other guests.
Our house mates for the week are:
Ian and Trina
Doug and Jan
Andrew and Jan
Donald and Helen Warden ( Oxford)
Jimmy and Janet Primrose ( The isle of Arran )
Jimmy and Donald are old schoolmates of Ian so it should be a rather raucous week!
Much booze drunk sitting around the kitchen table,including yours truly but when Ian arrives back at the house I decide to retire, but not before Jan McMorrine appears, Lady Macbeth-like to scold us for making such a racket at that ungodly hour.
This reprimand is all to no avail and Andrew, Ian, the Forsons and Donald continue their rebellious ways until 1.00 am ( one of our earlier nights as it later turns out!)

Saturday 23rd April 


WEDDING DAY!

Cold windy day to start with but thankfully dry.
Up by 6.30 for early shower and then off to Machrins Bay near to the golf course.
After lunch get  into our wedding attire and drive out to the beautiful Killoran Bay, the site of the wedding ceremony and Gail prepares herself for her role as chief photographer ( ably assisted by many others)
All going to plan when Ian drops off the first of the bridesmaids in the bridal car, a suitably bedecked Land Rover Discovery. Drama ensues when the mobiliser on the Discovery malfunctions and Ian is forced to evacuate the vehicle, rear end first with his kilt on. Sadly, there was no camera on hand to record this momentous event but it should provide fodder for any number of apochryphal stories in the future.
Wonderful, joyous ceremony overlooking the beach,after which we all adjourn to the Colonsay Hotel for a superb buffet-style meal.
Weather now perfect so many guests take the opportunity to eat out on the hotel lawns.
Short stop back at Machrins and then to the Village Hall for a Ceilidh.
Good speeches all round although noise from the adjacent kitchen made parts of them inaudible to some older guests (such as DFI ). MC for the evening, Andrew McMorrine was at his polished, amusing, best
although his calling on the father of the bride 3 times ( after Ian had already spoken ) somewhat blotted his copy book. ( he had meant to say father of the groom but got his sexes mixed up )
Fantastic band and much participation in the very energetic Scottish dancing.
I win a bottle of quality malt whisky by getting my gold coin closest to the bottle and as I don’t drink scotch the signs of affection from my fellow house guests increase markedly, especially from Donald Warden. They noticeably waned as the bottle started to empty during the course of the week!
Home at a relatively respectable hour after a memorable day.

Sunday 24th April


Another fine day so a group of us set off to the beautiful Ardskenish Bay. Gail stays back to help Trina with food preparation.
Back by 2.00 just in time to join all of the other guests for a BBQ in the garden at Machrins. Gavin from the local Pantry cafe had arranged for a marquee, which came in very handy as the day turned decidedly chilly later in the day.
We all retire to the lounge for a very cosy evening get-together in front of an open fire.
Much reminiscing, mouth-organ music from Andrew Mac and LOTS of alcohol made for a memorable evening, interrupted only by Ian and Trina’s nephew, Alex bringing in a worse-for-wear American fiancee, Mallory who had come down with some sort of rash and was feeling very fragile. She recovers quite quickly and we all conclude that the fragility was most likely the result of jetlag combined with the demon alcohol.
Not in bed before 1.00 and learn later that Doug and Andrew Mac had stayed up till after 3.00!

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Excellent breakfast then off to Glasgow. Still the drab old city that I recall from the 1970’s.
Train to Oban through some truly magnificent scenery, especially along Loch Lomond and Loch Awe. Train divides at Crianlarich so fortunately we have selected the front carriages which go to Oban rather the rear end which goes up to Fort William.
Arrive at Oban to be greeted by Ian Wood, a friend from the 70’s, his daughter Karenna and her fiance Lee.
Ian gradually recovering from problems associated with a hip replacement but otherwise well and prepared for the wedding of Karenna and Lee on Colonsay.
Glenburnie Hotel a fine family hotel overlooking the bay.
Dinner at La Piazza ( an Italian restaurant for you linguists out there!) and meet up with a number of the other guests attending the wedding.
In bed by 11.00 ( definitely not a sign of things to come on Colonsay )

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Sunshine again!
G into Stafford for a manicure so we say our goodbyes to Tone and Marg after a great week together.
Set off north up the M6 late morning and plan to take a detour to Kendal in the Lake District ( we had spent our wedding night there in 1973 so wanted to re-visit the scene of the crime.). Too much traffic so we stop to eat our snackfood at a parking spot with a great view of the surrounding hills.
Arrive in Moffat at about 3.00 and are pleasantly surprised to find that the Balmoral Hotel has upgraded us to an apartment in the Stables. Moffat is a delightful town so take a quick stroll along the river, view the narrowest hotel in the world ( The Star )
Dinner at the Buccleuch Arms where we eat far too much of the local fare before retiring for an early night.

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Another gloriously sunny day so we set off with Tone and Marg to visit the Dorothy Clive Gardens in Woore in Cheshire. The gardens, which were developed by her husband to make her life as an MS sufferer more comfortable are superb, especially on such a day.
Return to one of our favourite pubs, the Hollybush at Salt, where Tony shouts us a typical pub lunch- a reminder that no matter how hard they might try no country can emulate the British pub.
Afternoon spent back in the garden at Tone and Marg’s before yet another evening recalling mainly our footballing days.
We all then pack our bags, Gail and I for the trip to the island of Colonsay, T and M for an Easter break in Borth in North Wales.

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Yet another fine morning so take long walk over Cannock Chase with Gail.
Late morning drive into Stafford for Gail to buy more books for her travels. Check out The Chambers restaurant which will be the venue of our dinner later in the day.
Afternoon spent catching up on the blogs before heading back into town for dinner with old friends from my childhood village, Gill and Alan Farmer and Tony and Penny Rogers.
As always had a great time reminiscing on our misspent youth. Personally I can’t recall the escapades which they all seem to clearly remember( probably more of a comment on me than them! )
Gill doing a 26 mile walk on May 14th for Breast Cancer and apparently hopes to break the 25 hour time barrier!

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Sunday 10th April- Perth to Singapore, Singapore to London
 Journey not off to the best of starts when we are advised at check-in that we have not been granted an upgrade using our Frequent Flyer points. We suspect that it’s merely a case of Qantas punishing us for not using them over the past two years on our overseas trips.
Service and food on board good but flight attendants seem to be getting older ( or is it just Gail and I getting younger?)
As is so often the case it is wet and windy in Singapore and there is soon a deep depression over the Irelands when we are told that our upgrade request for the Singapore-London sector has also been rejected.
Mood made even worse when we realize that D has window seat and G has aisle seat but on the other side of the aisle. A polite request to a large lady, who bore a striking resemblance to an All Black second row forward, to switch seats was met with a decidedly aggressive ‘No’, much to G’s disgust.
I then had to endure 13+ hours with this female who had by this time been named by G the ‘Butch Bitch’.
Bumpy take-off from Singapore in one of the new A380’s but afterwards enjoyed a very good flight with superb service and top quality food.

Monday 11th April- Arrival in London
Arrive in London at 7.00 am on fine, if a little misty morning.
Leave main suitcases at Left Luggage and catch Tube to Westminster for a one night stay at the renovated Mint Hotel which proves to be great value-for-money and very convenient.
Manage to get early check-in and after watching Rory McIroy implode in the last round of the Masters Golf ( losing to South African Charles Schwarzel ) we walk up past St James Park to the Strand where we do some shopping for outdoor clothes. At 6.30 we meet Daniel and Laura, my brother Tony’s grandchildren, for a meal at a pasta bar in Covent Garden. Great to catch up with the young guys who are both faring well in their respective careers of accountancy and law.
Relatively early night as we try to reduce the effects of jetlag.
Tuesday 12th April- London to Stafford
Lovely full English Breakfast, followed by a stroll around the area on another fine morning.
Judging by the huge number of tourists London is really gearing up for the Royal Wedding on which the Brits appear to be relying for an economic turnaround.
Pick up our Ford Mondeo from Hertz and head off over to Slough meet up with an old friend, Gordon , with whom I had shared an office for 10 years at Ladybird Childrenswear during the 1970’s.
Gordon and his friend Judy still appear to be enjoying a life of gourmet food, quality wine and occasional travel, in spite of having suffered a heart attack during the past 12 months.
Great to catch up on old times over lunch at the Marriott Hotel, after which we drive up to Stafford, arriving at Tony’s at about 6.30.
Great to see Tone and Marg looking so well and surprisingly suntanned, apparently courtesy of 2 weeks lovely sunny weather.
Relaxing evening settling in. Late night for D but G off to bed fairly early as the effects of jetlag take over.
Wednesday 13th April- Stafford
Marg and G take a walk over a lovely rural area nearby called Jacob’s Ladder while Tone and I head off to garage for some repairs to the boot lock on his car. ( getting into the boot by crawling behind the back seats was becoming a bit tiresome! )
D uses then uses T’s mountain bike to go for ride around the area to prepare for Croatia bike tour. While out and about I meet a fellow Old Edwardian ( former students of my old grammar school in Stafford ) David Pearsall, who was also school captain. I diplomatically resisted the temptation to remind him of the day when a sixth-former had broken his nose after being pushed around once to often by the highly unpopular Mr Pearsall.
Dinner at T and M’s. G has another night but D sits up with brother to see Tottenham beaten 4-0 by Real Madrid in Champion’s League.
Thursday 14th April- Stafford
D starts the day with brisk walk along nearby canal. Shopping in Stafford centre and then on to Lilleshall in Shropshire where we have a superb lunch at The Red House.
G’s choice of Scampi not the best as D, M and T enjoy a wonderful Seniors’ Special meal from the Carvery. Less than 35 UKp for 4 meals and drinks! Difficult to beat that and another reminder, if such were needed, that an English pub is still a unique institution, which simply cannot be replicated anywhere else.
Stop by in the village of Gnosall ( where I spent most of my younger days ) to put some flowers on Mum and Dad’s grave.
Rest of day spent allowing the huge lunch to go down.
Friday 15th April – Stafford
M and T have appointments in town so after another pleasant walk along the canal D and G also head into Stafford.
Lunch at a familar haunt called The Soup Kitchen then back to T and M’s for a superb chicken dinner during which T regales us with stories of his National Service days. He is in great form and it’s lovely to see everyone so relaxed and enjoying this all-too-rare time together as a family.
Highlight of the day- while going into Marks and Spencer toilet we meet an old fellow struggling to reverse out of a disabled toilet and meeting a second old guy being helped into the same toilet. The first guy takes one look at the second chap and blurts out “ Jesus he’s in a worse state than I am!’ I didn’t stick around long enough to hear the second guys response or to gauge how much the comment had taken off his life expectancy.
Saturday 16th April – Stafford
Another beautiful start to the day weather-wise. G and D take our usual walk across Jacob’s Ladder and we are treated to a picture-postcard scene- deer, pheasants, hot-air balloons, cattle grazing, truly idyllic.
All morning spent enjoying the sun in the back garden and then off to see an old friend Janet Wiseman in my childhood village of Gnosall. Janet doing very well at 81 years of age after losing her long-term companion, Kate who died the previous year at the age of 97.
Enjoy cordon bleu lunch of 2 hot cross buns in the car before calling on Tony’s daughter Di and her husband Terry who live in a heritage cottage in Gnosall.
Very enjoyable couple of hours just chatting about holidays past and planned, football ( Terry is a Milwall supporter but his rehab is going well!). True to form the Milwall fans had recently carried Turkish flags into their ground during a match with Leeds in sensitive reminder that 2 Leeds fans had been stabbed to death in Turkey the previous year. Things obviously haven’t changed a great deal at the aptly named Milwall home ground of Coldblow Lane.
Back to Stafford for very tasty fish dinner followed by an even tastier dessert of City beating United 1-0 in the FA Cup Semi Final. It’s always one of life’s pleasures to see Sir Alex looking depressed!
Sunday 17th April- Stafford/ Church Stretton
G and D take another stroll over Jacob’s Ladder and then along the canal, passing the lovely Milford Hall Cricket Ground, where D had played a number of games in his youth.
It’s an archetypal English ground in a tranquil, secluded setting, complete with superb pavilion where no doubt cucumber sandwiches are scoffed at tea break on match days.
10.00 am sees us set off towards Shropshire and to the attractive town of Church Stretton, situated close to the Welsh border, where Andy, my nephew, and his wife Mo now live.
Both of them looking very well, especially Andy, who has over the past year lost about 20 kgs. This svelte character is a far cry from the ‘ fat bastard’ ( his words ! ) of well over 100 kgs.
Really good to have our annual get-together over a lamb roast from super chef Andy, ably assisted by sous-chef Mo. Food washed down by 2002 La Rioja Shiraz which we had brought with us. Fine array of cheeses  ( one of which smelt like a pair of Andy’s old rugby socks ) rounded off a great meal.
Plans for possible European holiday rendezvous discussed, including even some cycling in France now that they are both into more strenuous exercise.
Ben, their dog as beautiful as ever. ( Craig had once said “ God your’e ugly ,Ben!” when peering into Ben’s character-laden face ). Crufts would probably say that Ben is not classically beautiful but he would no doubt win a prize for ‘ most fascinating canine ‘.
Back at Stafford by 8.00 to hear the news that Stoke had beaten Bolton 5-0 to qualify for FA Cup Final on 14th May against Man City.

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My most expensive bout of nausea ever has cost me my fine dining meal at about 3.00 in the morning so breakfast is one bread roll and jam.
Bags all packed and off to the airport for early afternoon to Kuala Lumpur.
Looking forward to the relative luxury of Kuala Lumpur but 3 hour flight from Hanoi gives us both time to think back on our Vietnam experience.
It has not been a holiday in the conventional sense. Vietnam is in some ways an assault on the senses with frequent reminders along the way that one is travelling through a third-world country. What is undeniable is the incredible energy and industry of the people and it is to be hoped that the inevitable growth in tourism will see their efforts rewarded without sacrificing the essential character of this fascinating country.
 A decidely more emaciated Obese Ferret.

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Hanoi 2nd January 2011

Arrive back at The Amazing Hotel at 4.30 am and they kindly allow us to use another room to have a shower while waitng for our own room to be vacated.
Suitably rested, we walk to Ho Chi Minh’ s Mausoleum, only to find that it is cloed in the afternoon ( thank you Footprints Guide for the inaccurate information ). Visit instead HCM’s house and Museum and keep a promise to Craig to take some photos of a B52 Bomber shot down in the Ngoc Ha Village suburb.
Walk back to hotel via alleys and laneways teeming with the incredible industrious Vietnamese going about their business. ( No weekends or penalty labour rates here! )
As a special treat we have booked dinner at reputedly Hanoi’s finest hotel, the neoclassical Sofitel Metropole. Their Le Beaulieu restaurant offers fine dining at its very best and is a far cry from the $3 and $4 meals which have been our main fare during the trip.
The meal, wine and the experience are all that we could have asked for and we round off the evening with a visit to the famous  Water Puppet Theatre near to the Hoan Kiem Lake.
Back to the hotel in good time to pack our bags for the departure the next day.
Leaving Hanoi with very fond memories of this attractive city. Whilst lacking the frenetic activity of Ho Chi Minh City it is in our view a more stylish city which has kept much of its character and elegance from the French colonial era.
The Obese Ferret.

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I greet the New Year by bringing up all of previous night’s meal at about 7.00am and decide to give a breakfast of pancakes and other goodies a miss.
Mist has lifted somewhat but still drizzly and chilly as we set off, this time accompanied by a new trio of villagers. The morning trail very slippery and demanding so Gail has no alternative other than to enlist the aid of one of the women to negotiate the more difficult sections. A real workout for my Titanium knee but it seems to be holding up remarkably well, certainly better than my gut. Such situations only serve as a reminder, if such were required, of what the soldiers had to contend with in the jungles of Papua New Guinea and elsewhere. Puts my temporary problems into perspective.
Gradually wend our way down to the riverbed and late morning say goodbye to the three villagers who have been tagging us. Not really a fond farewell as they are unhappy with our gesture to pay them a reasonable amount for their help on the trail but not to buy any of their very poor quality locally made items.
On arrival at Su Pan we wait for our transport back to Sa Pa in the house of some delightful villagers who made us feel very welcome, even to the point of offering me some local herbal medicine for my gastro problems. They looked and tasted pretty horrible but I felt obliged to give them a go. Long later showed me a business card which the family had had printed extolling the virtues of their herbal remedies, one of which was designed to solve erectile dysfunction!  I explained to Long that given the way I was feeling nothing was further from my mind than a knee-trembler deep in the heart of the Vietnamese countryside!
Bumpy ride back to Sa Pa for quick lunch, after which we say goodbye to Long who has been an excellent guide.
As part of the tour we are able to have a quick shower at Hotel Papillon and then wait for bus to take us back to Lao Dai. The 4.30 bus finally arrives one hour late and what follows next is truly Pythonesque.
A mini bus designed to carry 15 people spends close to one hour picking up people from various hotels, dropping them off again, driving down numerous streets and then reversing back up the same streets. The increasingly harassed young driver finally managed to squeeze 18 passengers sardine-like into his vehicle and as luck would have it he proved to be a very careful driver as he negotiated the thick fog on the road from Sa Pa to Lao Cai.
All aboard the train at 7.30 pm for the usual uncomfortable trip to Hanoi. The cabin this time shared with a very friendly Kenyan/British guy and his French partner.
The Obese Ferret.

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Sapa 31st December.

Wake up to a valley shrouded in mist so the much-vaunted views of the valleys are non-existant.
After lovely breakfast we are met at hotel by Long, our guide for the trek into the mountains and outerlying villages. As soon as we step out of the hotel we are surrounded by villagers,mainly from thr Hmong minority ethnic group. 3 of the villagers tag onto us as we set off on our trip. After walking out of Sapa for about 500 metres we realise that Long is expecting us to do only a day trek and return to Sapa in the evening. We explainn that we are in fact booked on a two day trek with an overnight stay in one of the villages. A quick phone call to Long’s office sorts all of this out, one of a number of problems which we are to encounter along the way with regard to the Sapa travel arrangements.
We leave Sapa and gradually descend into the river valley cursing our luck with the weather and accompanied  by the three Hmong villagers, ranging in age from 17 to 47. the 17 year old hasa 5 month old baby and we are informed by Long that the girls in the villages get married as young as 14 and start a family very early.
Some explanation on the system in operation with regard to the omni-present ‘hangers-on’.
The villagers leave their homes at about 3.00 am to walk to Sapa and tag onto a guide with tourists in tow.
They then accompany the group back to their village, helping the trekkers when necessary on the at times slippery tracks. The unstated agreement is that the tourists will than purchase from them some of their locally handcrafted items such as purses, handbags cushion covers etc, often hemp dyed. The purple dye is there for all to see on the hands of the villagers.
The quality of the items is variable and some prices charged do not really represent the best value-for-money. Nevertheless, it is a way of putting some money back into the local community.
There are ,however, some pitfalls – firstly on reaching the first village at lunchtime it is not easy to identify among the sea of faces the villagers who have in fact accompanied us along the trail. Secondly, as we leave the village a second shift of the Red Dao minority group takes over to be with us to the village where we will spend the night. Fortunately, we manage to get the message through that our budget has been spent for the day and the taggers drift off.
Arrive late afternoon at village of Ta Van ( Giay minority group ) and ‘check into’ our very basic homestay. This consists of a ground floor where we will eat our meals, a veranda from which to enjoy the still elusive vistas and an upstairs with up to 30 mattresses laid out on the floor.
Fortunately, we are only sharing this with 4 very pleasant Thai girls so we are each  able to to use numerous quilts and pillows to keep out the the bitter cold. ( there is no heating in the place )
The New Year’s Eve meal prepared by the landlord, an assistant and our guide comes as a very pleasant surprise with a huge array of superb Vietnamese food,washed down by some rice wine. Much frivolity as the wine takes effect even if by now Gail’s cold has taken a real turn for the worse.
Into bed before 2011 arrives ( a sign of old age ).
The Obese Ferret.

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Hanoi 29th Dec( cont )

Hanoi nowhere near as frenetic as Ho Chi Minh City and it has retained much of its traditional architecture. The French Quarter in particular is a delight.
We stroll Hoam Kiem Lake and have a snack at the Paris Deli near to St. Josephs Cathedral. Generally try to soak up the atmosphere before returning to Paris Deli for dinner.
Off to the station to catch the 20.35 train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. We have booked a Deluxe cabin ( 4 berth ) and find ourselves sharing with 2 New Zealanders who have only paid for a standard 4 berth cabin, much to Mrs Ireland’s displeasure. However, they are a very nice young couple and the 9 hours overnight trip is as comfortable as it can be on a very hard bunk bed and a railway track which is seemingly in great need of some maintenance.
Arrive in Lao Cai at 5.00 am on 30th Dec. Usual chaos and lack of communication leads to our waiting in a mini bus for 2 other passengers who are supposed to travelling with us to Sapa. The male passenger is Juan but after I have spoken to a French-speaking guide at the station it transpires that Juan is actually Sam, the Kiwi who shared the cabin with us from Hanoi. This little incident really sums up the joys of travelling in a Vietnam still coming to come to terms with their burgeoning tourist trade.
Eventually get under way for the fairly bumpy drive to Sapa.
Sapa is a mountain retreat at 1650 metres with a vaguely alpine landscape. Although the town itself is ethnically Vietnamese its shops and markets serve the minority groups such as the Kmong and Red Dao.
More on these groups later.
Book into a very pleasant Papillon Hotel, after which we spend a fairly sunny day walking around the town. As evening draws in the mist really descends on Sapa and the temperature drop quite dramatically, apparently the norm for thid time of year. To be fairly early to prepare for our trek the next day.
The Obese Ferret

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Craig’s books a motorbike to visit Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum but unfortunately did not have time to visit the sight of a B52 bomber which crashed during the Vietnam War. Also visits the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ prison,ironically named as such by USA airmen and soldiers in reference to the brutal treatment meted out to so many during the war.Unashamedly biased from a Vietnamese point of view, the prison held John McCain when he was shot down during the war.
Craig leaves by cab to airport and we then venture out to also visit the same prison, wander round to get a feel of this attractive city.
More later as yours truly has come down with some stomach trouble and I am in ‘take-off’ position at the hotel computer which is not really conducive to my muse sending pearls of wisdom!
THe Obese Ferret

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