Archive for the ‘obese ferret’ Category
Monday 2nd May
Posted in obese ferret on May 6, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Sunday 1st May 2011
Posted in obese ferret on May 4, 2011| Leave a Comment »
10.00am flight with BA to Gatwick and after a few hours in a very comfortable BA lounge fly on to Venice, arriving in time to take a bus into Venice Mestre railway station and catch the 18.23 train to Trieste.
Flat,uninspiring country as we head east from Venice but as we approach Trieste the landscape changes markedly with glimpses of snow-covered mountains near Cortino d’Ampezzo and a high escarpment to the north of the railway line.
Take a taxi to our hotel, House 5 in Via Giulia, and we are taken to the cleaners by our charisma-minus taxidriver who must be distantly related to Silvio Berlosconi. Both of us too tired and/or dumb to register that he charged us 11 euros when the meter showed 6!
Hotel in a very pleasant part of Trieste and spacious rooms very well appointed.
Go to bed happy in the knowledge that Man United have lost to Arsenal so will have something interesting to say to Smithy when he and Cath arrive the next day.
Other momentous news- Osama bin Laden has supposedly been killed in Pakistan by USA team and his body has been buried at sea. Will reserve our judgement until we are drip-fed more info by the USA.
Saturday 30th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 4, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Say goodbye to Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue and spend the morning in Oban before catching the train back to Glasgow.
The journey back gives us an even better idea of the what a truly beautiful country Scotland is and what draws so many people to this part of the world, especially as they get closer to retirement or semi-retirement.
Bus to the airport to book into Holiday Inn Express Hotel. Not exactly 5 star but more than adequate and very convenient.
Another early night so we must by now have eaten into our sleep deficit!
Friday 29th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 4, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Time to pack up and leave the Colonsay locals to their peace and quiet.
Morning spent downloading photographs and packing clothes etc before calling two of Ian and Trina’s friends, John and Pauline to watch the Royal Wedding!
As always the Brits do pageantry superbly and the young couple look very happy as they embark on their life of papparazzi, luxury and no doubt all manner of stresses and strains.
My views on the monarchy are well known but from my vantage point on the sofa, shared with messieurs Wood and McMorrine it was good to see the country receiving such a lift from the happy, if anachronistic event.
Gail and I walk from Machrins to Scalasaig and trek to the monument up above the town, returning to enjoy a snack at The Pantry.
Final drinks at the hotel before boarding the ferry back to Oban at 7.35 pm.
Very sad to say goodbye to all the friends with whom we had shared a memorable week on the island, although with Doug and Jan, Rob and Sam and Lee and Karenna due to come to Aus later this year we will receive constant reminders of our misdemeanours during the previous 8 days!
Book into guesthouse Alltavona, situated along the seafront, together with Lee and Karenna, Ian and Trina and Keith and Sue.
First truly early night since arriving on Colonsay on 22nd April.
Thursday 28th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 4, 2011| Leave a Comment »
After slightly cloudy start the day clears up once again.
Andrew and Jan Mac give us a lift to Colonsay House, home of the laird, and although the house and gardens are not officially open at the time we manage to enter through the’ back door’,so to speak and do our own mini tour while the Macs visit friends on the island.
Leaving Colonsay G and I take a very enjoyable walk back to Scalasaig via Beinn nan Gudairean. 360 degrees views as we reach the top of the climb.
Meet up again with Doug and Jan in Scalasaig so stop at the hotel for a few more drinks, in spite of the barman who lacks charisma, to say the least. Doug correctly springs to his defence by pointing out that the guy behind the bar is probably just frustated by the tight rein coming from the owner, namely the laird’s wife. Sadly, the hotel is on a downward spiral at present and is failing to cash in on its undoubted potential.
Gavin at the Pantry is at present is the beneficiary of their decline.
We return to Machrins to assist Gavin and his helpers to dismantle the marquee and then more lazing about in the garden.
Usual superb meal prepared by Jan Mac, Jan Forson with some help from Gail on the sweets for our farewell Colonsay dinner. This is held for the first time in the dining room around the large round table and the 8 of us are joined by Ian and Christine Harding and David and Sarah,owners of the Balnahard Farm.
A very convivial end to the day again around the open fire and just for once a reasonably early night.
Wednesday 27th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 3, 2011| Leave a Comment »
A bit of a lie-in on another beautiful day, albeit one with a very cold wind blowing.
Drive Kiloran Bay carpark with Andrew and Jan McMorrine and Stromer ,Ian and Trina’s lovely gentle labrador and set off to walk to Balnahard Beach on north of the island. Unfortunately Stromer, after a long walk the day before, decides to down tools after a while and ‘persuades’ us that we should stop at the northern end of Kiloran Bay.
Eventually, we meet up with Ian and Trina on the beach after they have been to the jetty to see off Malcolm Chapman ( Lee’s Father ) who had had to return to Yorkshire for work reasons.
Wine and snacks on the beach after which we walk up to Cill-a-Rubh, the house where Lee and Karenna are staying. The views from the house are truly superb and the visit affords us the opportunity to see some of Andrew’s remarkable drawings of local identities.
Return home to relax over more drinks before great chilli con carne meal cooked by Doug and Jan.
Off to Colonsay Hotel for a Quiz Night which had been totally slanted towards the younger generation ( Karenna using her position as the new bride! ). Our team of geriatrics comes last with only 11.5 out of 50, not really surprising as we have never heard of the most of the rock bands featuring in the questions.
Late drinks around the table back at Machrins where we endeavour to solve all of the immigration problems of the world over still more alcohol.
In bed by 2.00 am leaving Andrew and a decidedly sleepy Doug to stay up for another 11/2 hours.
Tuesday 26th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 3, 2011| Leave a Comment »
A bitterly cold morning but up at 6.30 am to see off many guests including Jimmy and Janet Primrose,Donald and Helen Warden, Rita ( Trina’s mum ), her sister Ingrid and her husband Paul.
9.30 trip to the island of Islay on 2 motor boats, with 12 on each. 45 pounds per head including the boat trip, bus on Islay and guided tour of the Bowmore Distillery.
Very rushed lunch and then back on boat by 2.15 for trip back to Colonsay on a by now glorious day.
Some info for trivia nights- our boat uses 60 to 80 litres of fuel per hour whilst the lifeboat that passes us uses an amazing 430 litres per hour.
Islay a lovely island but far more developed than Colonsay which is in comparison is a real haven of tranquility. Little wonder that Ian, Trina and their friends keep coming back for more.
Late afternoon spent relaxing in the garden at Machrins which seems very quiet with only 8 of us left.
Monday 25th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 3, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Another fine day!
Most of the Machrins go to Village Hall to clean up after the ceilidh but I play 17 holes of golf with Tony and Dave. Shoot about 90 ( par 70 ) so quite happy as I have Ian’s father’s blade clubs. Course in somewhat better condition than in 2009 with fewer thistles but I don’t expect to see it as a venue for the British Open in the foreseeable future.
At 4.00 drive down with other wedding guests to the Strand, a stretch of land between Colonsay and Oronsay, which may only be crossed at low tide.
Glorious walk makes for a lovely walk to the Oronsay Priory where we enjoy sacrilegious sandwiches and bubbly while sitting under ancient cross.
Back to Machrins and then off to Machrins Beach where the youngsters had set up a beach BBQ. Special experience with all the Chinese lanterns dotted about the dunes although at first sight we appeared to have walked in a Ku Klux Klan meeting!
Evening ends in tragi-comedy as Doug totally legless ( he had been drinking scotch through the afternoon )
by the end of the evening. We were then treated to the spectacle of Doug, assisted by an almost incapable Ian and a very sensible Rob ( Sam Wood’s partner ) making a very precarious way back to the vehicle, which Doug’s wife Jan was to drive home. At one stage D an Ian tried to take a short cut up a bank which was more akin to the north face of the Eiger with both falling face first into the sand. Ian’s reassurance to me that ” I’m not as bad as you think I am ” only added to the hilarity of the occasion.
Finally back at Machrins Andrew, Ian ( now semi-sober ) Jan and I manage to manhandle the dead weight of Doug up the stairs and ono the bed.
Doug subsequently falls out of bed but he apparently has a very good night’s sleep. His powers of recovery are of Olympic proportions.
In bed by 2.00 am
Friday 22 April
Posted in obese ferret on May 3, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Another clear if chilly day.
All the group meet for breakfast at 9.00 and Graham offers to store our unneeded items while we are on the island- offer gratefully accepted.
Head off into the lovely town of Oban where we again meet up with some of the youngsters attending the wedding.
Renew our acquaintance with old friends, Doug and Jan Forson from Edinburgh and meet for the first time Andrew and Jan McMorrine who hail from Skye and will be sharing the house on Colonsay.
Big buy- up of food and drink,especially the latter then off to the jetty for the 2 hour trip to Colonsay.
Sea like a millpond and we have the added bonus of seeing The Waverley, the last remaining paddle steamer in operation in this area.
Doug has made arrangements for the soon-to-be bride and groom to visit the bridge, a real highlight for them.
Arrive in Colonsay to be met by a large crowd and a young piper, Lewis who pipes the couple on shore. More of the remarkable Lewis later.
Ian and Trina take us off to Machrins, our home for the next week, where we meet up with the other guests.
Our house mates for the week are:
Ian and Trina
Doug and Jan
Andrew and Jan
Donald and Helen Warden ( Oxford)
Jimmy and Janet Primrose ( The isle of Arran )
Jimmy and Donald are old schoolmates of Ian so it should be a rather raucous week!
Much booze drunk sitting around the kitchen table,including yours truly but when Ian arrives back at the house I decide to retire, but not before Jan McMorrine appears, Lady Macbeth-like to scold us for making such a racket at that ungodly hour.
This reprimand is all to no avail and Andrew, Ian, the Forsons and Donald continue their rebellious ways until 1.00 am ( one of our earlier nights as it later turns out!)
Saturday 23rd April
WEDDING DAY!
Cold windy day to start with but thankfully dry.
Up by 6.30 for early shower and then off to Machrins Bay near to the golf course.
After lunch get into our wedding attire and drive out to the beautiful Killoran Bay, the site of the wedding ceremony and Gail prepares herself for her role as chief photographer ( ably assisted by many others)
All going to plan when Ian drops off the first of the bridesmaids in the bridal car, a suitably bedecked Land Rover Discovery. Drama ensues when the mobiliser on the Discovery malfunctions and Ian is forced to evacuate the vehicle, rear end first with his kilt on. Sadly, there was no camera on hand to record this momentous event but it should provide fodder for any number of apochryphal stories in the future.
Wonderful, joyous ceremony overlooking the beach,after which we all adjourn to the Colonsay Hotel for a superb buffet-style meal.
Weather now perfect so many guests take the opportunity to eat out on the hotel lawns.
Short stop back at Machrins and then to the Village Hall for a Ceilidh.
Good speeches all round although noise from the adjacent kitchen made parts of them inaudible to some older guests (such as DFI ). MC for the evening, Andrew McMorrine was at his polished, amusing, best
although his calling on the father of the bride 3 times ( after Ian had already spoken ) somewhat blotted his copy book. ( he had meant to say father of the groom but got his sexes mixed up )
Fantastic band and much participation in the very energetic Scottish dancing.
I win a bottle of quality malt whisky by getting my gold coin closest to the bottle and as I don’t drink scotch the signs of affection from my fellow house guests increase markedly, especially from Donald Warden. They noticeably waned as the bottle started to empty during the course of the week!
Home at a relatively respectable hour after a memorable day.
Sunday 24th April
Another fine day so a group of us set off to the beautiful Ardskenish Bay. Gail stays back to help Trina with food preparation.
Back by 2.00 just in time to join all of the other guests for a BBQ in the garden at Machrins. Gavin from the local Pantry cafe had arranged for a marquee, which came in very handy as the day turned decidedly chilly later in the day.
We all retire to the lounge for a very cosy evening get-together in front of an open fire.
Much reminiscing, mouth-organ music from Andrew Mac and LOTS of alcohol made for a memorable evening, interrupted only by Ian and Trina’s nephew, Alex bringing in a worse-for-wear American fiancee, Mallory who had come down with some sort of rash and was feeling very fragile. She recovers quite quickly and we all conclude that the fragility was most likely the result of jetlag combined with the demon alcohol.
Not in bed before 1.00 and learn later that Doug and Andrew Mac had stayed up till after 3.00!
Thursday 21st April
Posted in obese ferret on May 1, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Wednesday 20th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 1, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Tuesday 19th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 1, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Monday 18th April
Posted in obese ferret on May 1, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Trip to Europe April to June 2011
Posted in obese ferret on April 19, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Departure from Hanoi 3rd January.
Posted in obese ferret, tagged Vietnam on January 8, 2011| Leave a Comment »
My most expensive bout of nausea ever has cost me my fine dining meal at about 3.00 in the morning so breakfast is one bread roll and jam.
Bags all packed and off to the airport for early afternoon to Kuala Lumpur.
Looking forward to the relative luxury of Kuala Lumpur but 3 hour flight from Hanoi gives us both time to think back on our Vietnam experience.
It has not been a holiday in the conventional sense. Vietnam is in some ways an assault on the senses with frequent reminders along the way that one is travelling through a third-world country. What is undeniable is the incredible energy and industry of the people and it is to be hoped that the inevitable growth in tourism will see their efforts rewarded without sacrificing the essential character of this fascinating country.
A decidely more emaciated Obese Ferret.
Hanoi 2nd January 2011
Posted in obese ferret, tagged Vietnam on January 8, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Arrive back at The Amazing Hotel at 4.30 am and they kindly allow us to use another room to have a shower while waitng for our own room to be vacated.
Suitably rested, we walk to Ho Chi Minh’ s Mausoleum, only to find that it is cloed in the afternoon ( thank you Footprints Guide for the inaccurate information ). Visit instead HCM’s house and Museum and keep a promise to Craig to take some photos of a B52 Bomber shot down in the Ngoc Ha Village suburb.
Walk back to hotel via alleys and laneways teeming with the incredible industrious Vietnamese going about their business. ( No weekends or penalty labour rates here! )
As a special treat we have booked dinner at reputedly Hanoi’s finest hotel, the neoclassical Sofitel Metropole. Their Le Beaulieu restaurant offers fine dining at its very best and is a far cry from the $3 and $4 meals which have been our main fare during the trip.
The meal, wine and the experience are all that we could have asked for and we round off the evening with a visit to the famous Water Puppet Theatre near to the Hoan Kiem Lake.
Back to the hotel in good time to pack our bags for the departure the next day.
Leaving Hanoi with very fond memories of this attractive city. Whilst lacking the frenetic activity of Ho Chi Minh City it is in our view a more stylish city which has kept much of its character and elegance from the French colonial era.
The Obese Ferret.
Ta Van and trek to Su Pan 1st January 2011.
Posted in obese ferret, tagged Vietnam on January 8, 2011| Leave a Comment »
I greet the New Year by bringing up all of previous night’s meal at about 7.00am and decide to give a breakfast of pancakes and other goodies a miss.
Mist has lifted somewhat but still drizzly and chilly as we set off, this time accompanied by a new trio of villagers. The morning trail very slippery and demanding so Gail has no alternative other than to enlist the aid of one of the women to negotiate the more difficult sections. A real workout for my Titanium knee but it seems to be holding up remarkably well, certainly better than my gut. Such situations only serve as a reminder, if such were required, of what the soldiers had to contend with in the jungles of Papua New Guinea and elsewhere. Puts my temporary problems into perspective.
Gradually wend our way down to the riverbed and late morning say goodbye to the three villagers who have been tagging us. Not really a fond farewell as they are unhappy with our gesture to pay them a reasonable amount for their help on the trail but not to buy any of their very poor quality locally made items.
On arrival at Su Pan we wait for our transport back to Sa Pa in the house of some delightful villagers who made us feel very welcome, even to the point of offering me some local herbal medicine for my gastro problems. They looked and tasted pretty horrible but I felt obliged to give them a go. Long later showed me a business card which the family had had printed extolling the virtues of their herbal remedies, one of which was designed to solve erectile dysfunction! I explained to Long that given the way I was feeling nothing was further from my mind than a knee-trembler deep in the heart of the Vietnamese countryside!
Bumpy ride back to Sa Pa for quick lunch, after which we say goodbye to Long who has been an excellent guide.
As part of the tour we are able to have a quick shower at Hotel Papillon and then wait for bus to take us back to Lao Dai. The 4.30 bus finally arrives one hour late and what follows next is truly Pythonesque.
A mini bus designed to carry 15 people spends close to one hour picking up people from various hotels, dropping them off again, driving down numerous streets and then reversing back up the same streets. The increasingly harassed young driver finally managed to squeeze 18 passengers sardine-like into his vehicle and as luck would have it he proved to be a very careful driver as he negotiated the thick fog on the road from Sa Pa to Lao Cai.
All aboard the train at 7.30 pm for the usual uncomfortable trip to Hanoi. The cabin this time shared with a very friendly Kenyan/British guy and his French partner.
The Obese Ferret.
Sapa 31st December.
Posted in obese ferret, tagged Vietnam on January 8, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Wake up to a valley shrouded in mist so the much-vaunted views of the valleys are non-existant.
After lovely breakfast we are met at hotel by Long, our guide for the trek into the mountains and outerlying villages. As soon as we step out of the hotel we are surrounded by villagers,mainly from thr Hmong minority ethnic group. 3 of the villagers tag onto us as we set off on our trip. After walking out of Sapa for about 500 metres we realise that Long is expecting us to do only a day trek and return to Sapa in the evening. We explainn that we are in fact booked on a two day trek with an overnight stay in one of the villages. A quick phone call to Long’s office sorts all of this out, one of a number of problems which we are to encounter along the way with regard to the Sapa travel arrangements.
We leave Sapa and gradually descend into the river valley cursing our luck with the weather and accompanied by the three Hmong villagers, ranging in age from 17 to 47. the 17 year old hasa 5 month old baby and we are informed by Long that the girls in the villages get married as young as 14 and start a family very early.
Some explanation on the system in operation with regard to the omni-present ‘hangers-on’.
The villagers leave their homes at about 3.00 am to walk to Sapa and tag onto a guide with tourists in tow.
They then accompany the group back to their village, helping the trekkers when necessary on the at times slippery tracks. The unstated agreement is that the tourists will than purchase from them some of their locally handcrafted items such as purses, handbags cushion covers etc, often hemp dyed. The purple dye is there for all to see on the hands of the villagers.
The quality of the items is variable and some prices charged do not really represent the best value-for-money. Nevertheless, it is a way of putting some money back into the local community.
There are ,however, some pitfalls – firstly on reaching the first village at lunchtime it is not easy to identify among the sea of faces the villagers who have in fact accompanied us along the trail. Secondly, as we leave the village a second shift of the Red Dao minority group takes over to be with us to the village where we will spend the night. Fortunately, we manage to get the message through that our budget has been spent for the day and the taggers drift off.
Arrive late afternoon at village of Ta Van ( Giay minority group ) and ‘check into’ our very basic homestay. This consists of a ground floor where we will eat our meals, a veranda from which to enjoy the still elusive vistas and an upstairs with up to 30 mattresses laid out on the floor.
Fortunately, we are only sharing this with 4 very pleasant Thai girls so we are each able to to use numerous quilts and pillows to keep out the the bitter cold. ( there is no heating in the place )
The New Year’s Eve meal prepared by the landlord, an assistant and our guide comes as a very pleasant surprise with a huge array of superb Vietnamese food,washed down by some rice wine. Much frivolity as the wine takes effect even if by now Gail’s cold has taken a real turn for the worse.
Into bed before 2011 arrives ( a sign of old age ).
The Obese Ferret.
Hanoi 29th Dec( cont )
Posted in obese ferret, tagged Vietnam on January 2, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Hanoi nowhere near as frenetic as Ho Chi Minh City and it has retained much of its traditional architecture. The French Quarter in particular is a delight.
We stroll Hoam Kiem Lake and have a snack at the Paris Deli near to St. Josephs Cathedral. Generally try to soak up the atmosphere before returning to Paris Deli for dinner.
Off to the station to catch the 20.35 train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. We have booked a Deluxe cabin ( 4 berth ) and find ourselves sharing with 2 New Zealanders who have only paid for a standard 4 berth cabin, much to Mrs Ireland’s displeasure. However, they are a very nice young couple and the 9 hours overnight trip is as comfortable as it can be on a very hard bunk bed and a railway track which is seemingly in great need of some maintenance.
Arrive in Lao Cai at 5.00 am on 30th Dec. Usual chaos and lack of communication leads to our waiting in a mini bus for 2 other passengers who are supposed to travelling with us to Sapa. The male passenger is Juan but after I have spoken to a French-speaking guide at the station it transpires that Juan is actually Sam, the Kiwi who shared the cabin with us from Hanoi. This little incident really sums up the joys of travelling in a Vietnam still coming to come to terms with their burgeoning tourist trade.
Eventually get under way for the fairly bumpy drive to Sapa.
Sapa is a mountain retreat at 1650 metres with a vaguely alpine landscape. Although the town itself is ethnically Vietnamese its shops and markets serve the minority groups such as the Kmong and Red Dao.
More on these groups later.
Book into a very pleasant Papillon Hotel, after which we spend a fairly sunny day walking around the town. As evening draws in the mist really descends on Sapa and the temperature drop quite dramatically, apparently the norm for thid time of year. To be fairly early to prepare for our trek the next day.
The Obese Ferret
Craig’s departure for Melbourne
Posted in obese ferret, tagged Vietnam on January 1, 2011| Leave a Comment »
Craig’s books a motorbike to visit Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum but unfortunately did not have time to visit the sight of a B52 bomber which crashed during the Vietnam War. Also visits the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ prison,ironically named as such by USA airmen and soldiers in reference to the brutal treatment meted out to so many during the war.Unashamedly biased from a Vietnamese point of view, the prison held John McCain when he was shot down during the war.
Craig leaves by cab to airport and we then venture out to also visit the same prison, wander round to get a feel of this attractive city.
More later as yours truly has come down with some stomach trouble and I am in ‘take-off’ position at the hotel computer which is not really conducive to my muse sending pearls of wisdom!
THe Obese Ferret