2geonomads

Day – 10 5th April 2017
Kanazawa/Jigokudani Snow Park/Nozawa Onsen Village
The weather is being kind to us again as we set off on the Bullet Train from Kanazawa to the small town of Liyama where we were met by coach and taken to the Jigokudani Monkey Park. We then uembarked on a fairly steep trek up a track made very slushy by the thawing snow. Chiaki has forewarned us that there no guarantee that we will see the snow monkeys but when we arrive at our destination we are thrilled to see so many monkeys on the partially snow-covered slopes and along the paths themselves. Even more of a bonus we can observe so many of the animals swimming in the warm water pools and the young frolicking about like young children. The photos accompanying this blog will do more justice to this scene than I can.

We stay up at this site as long as our timetable allows but all too soon it’s time to get back to the coach to be taken to the railway station and our onward journey to Nozama Onsen a very attractive village/ ski resort situated in a picturesque corner of the eastern Japan Alps. Here we are booked in for one night at the Ryokan Sakaya which in 2013 was World Ski Award’s Best Ski Boutique Hotel winner.
As we check into the hotel it is immediately clear why they received such an accolade. The rooms are beautifully appointed, the staff are the epitome of professionalism and this is a very traditional Japanese ryokan.

   

We are required to remove our shoes and put on slippers before setting foot in the hotel proper and similarly we take off our slippers and put on hotel-supplied socks when we enter the bedrooms. We are provided with traditional Yukata ( a type of kimono ) and a Tanzen ( jacket that goes on over the Yukata )which we are expected to wear for our evening meal and we are urged to take a bath in a traditional pool in the hotel. Chiaki stresses that this means putting aside any modesty and going the ‘ full monty’.     

Before we go to dinner we are taken on a quick tour of a part of the village, stopping along the way to take a quick look into a public bath where four naked guys in the hot water seem none too pleased by these intruders.

We also pass an area reserved for local villagers only who are able to use the hot waters to do some cooking and see a couple of young boys who are about to slow boil some eggs in the natural hot water. Finally, before we head back for dinner we are able to view the whole village from a great vantage point above the valley.

Back at the hotel both Gail and I take the plunge so to speak although thankfully no-one else was in the baths at the time.

 

   The Ladies Baths including outdoor pool

Dinner is an unforgettable experience when all of our group arrive resplendent in traditional garb and we are then treated to an incredible selection of some very fine Japanese food prepared by a Michelin 2 star chef.

To top it all off Chiaki, who used to be a singer in a group, convinces us all to become involved in a Japanese game played while accompanied by a song Kompira Fune Fune ( on this occasion sung by Chiaki ) with Liz from Sydney coming out the winner. This game is usually played on the occasion of a Geisha dinner or party.
Off to bed after yet another very rewarding day on what is becoming a magnificent tour, due in no small way to the fantastic performance of our guide ‘ par excellence’ Chiaki’.
Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Day 9 – 4th April 2017
Takayama/Shirakawa-go
Superb breakfast taken on the 16th floor of the hotel on a clear sunny day and then it’s off by coach to the delightful town of Takayama situated southeast of Kanazawa.
We are allowed plenty of free time to stroll through the town which, by virtue of its isolation, has been able to preserve so many of its Edo period streets, tiny shops and museums. There is also no shortage of eating places, be they restaurants, cafes or take-away stalls.

  
All of these quaint streets and also the market are contained in a small area to the east of the Miyagawa River.
We manage to buy a couple of Hida Beef Manju ( Bun) from a stall and although the amount of beef in the bun falls somewhat short of that shown on the advert outside the shop it still makes for a very tasty lunch snack. Moreover, we come across an elegant coffee lounge with excellent coffee. The fact that Keith, our resident barista and self-declared coffee snob, is already sitting in there is something of an endorsement.

We next travel north-west through a very scenic area of snow- covered hills and mountains to the picturesque small village of Shirakawago Ogimachi, nestled among the mountains on the Sho River.

This village and area are best known for the gassho-zukuri thatched style of house and these houses are the reason why Ogimachi is now on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

We are able to visit one of the houses for a nominal price of 300 yen and we are amazed at the number of floors the house comprises.

Once again we see the familiar sight of both Shinto and Buddhist altars in close proximity and Chiaki points out that the Shinto altar is always higher than the Buddhist. On the ground floor there there is also a shrine dedicated to deceased members of the family.

Chiaki explains that the house was originally involved in sericulture ( manufacture of silk) and,somewhat incongruously, gunpowder.

There is also still some evidence of the recent heavy snowfall throughout the area and village but this is expected to disappear within a short period.

On a rather bizarre note the entertainment for the day is provided by a rather large man ( seemingly of east European origin) and his wife. He is ranting and raving at his wife in a very loud voice and seems to be on the verge of flattening her at some point. The last time we see them she is heading off in one direction and he in another, maybe off to start another Balkan War!
Dinner back in Kanazawa is in an Italian restaurant which offers fine fare although we have all become well adjusted to Japanese food.
A most enjoyable day in some glorious weather and mountain scenery.

Cheers
The Obese Ferret.

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Day 8 – 3rd April 2017
Okayama to Kanazawa.
Time to check out of the excellent Hotel Granvia which has been our base in Okayama for the last 3 nights. We could not have asked for better accommodation.
A 45 minute train journey brings us to Shin- Osaka and then it’s on to the Limited Express Thunderbird for the 2 hours and 40 minutes it will take to arrive at our destination for the day, Kanazawa.
Kanazawa is a city of 450,000 and having not suffered any devastation during the Second World War it has been able to preserve its myriad historic and cultural sites. When you also add the beautiful samurai and geisha districts, impressive museums and temples it is little wonder that the city has become the main draw card of the Hokuriku region.
We’re first taken to the Kutani Kosen Ceramic Kiln which was opened in 1870 and a young member of the family takes us on a very informative tour of the business. He also provides us with a demonstration which perfectly showcases his expertise and artistry.

We all spend some time in the adjoining shop after the tour and the young man is rewarded for his efforts as a number of our group purchase items from the quality range of ceramics. We are also happy to linger here a while as during this visit the area is hit with a heavy thunderstorm with a dramatic drop in temperature and hail.
I think the cherry blossom buds have taken fright again!
We next visit the Sakuda Gold and Silver Leaf shop and Kanazawa’s old Geisha district Higashichaya.

(Even the ‘Ladies’ above has a touch of gold leaf)

Last but certainly not least we are able take our time strolling through the Kenrokuen Gardens, ranked as one of the top three gardens in Japan. Along with so many other visitors we are disappointed by the lack of spring blossom
but nothing can detract from these truly magnificent grounds. We are at last seeing a few trees in bloom and a number of our group have commented that this very late spring may be something of a blessing as we are able to take our stroll without the usual hordes to spoil the peace and tranquility.

By the time we get back to the bus everyone else is already seated in the warmth and getting some respite from what is now a seriously cold afternoon.
Dinner, at least for 5 of our group, is at a local sushi bar. Now I have never been a great fan of sushi but I have to say that the quality of the food is superb although the old chef is a real curmudgeon who only cracks a smile as we leave and I try to thank him in my very rudimentary Japanese.

 We are now staying for two nights at the Holiday Inn Kanazawa Sky with its novel reception on the 16th floor!

Cheers
The Obese Ferret

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Day 7 – 2nd April 2017
Takamatsu
An ideal day to take the JR train from Okayama across the inland sea from Honshu to the island of Shikoku.
The trip across the water is an adventure in itself and the Seto Ohashi Bridge, the world’s longest two- tiered bridge system at 13.1 kms, is a miracle of modern engineering.
However, we are reminded of our lowly status in life when the announcement comes over the on- board public address system that there are two classes of reserved seats. Upstairs in the domed roof section are the ‘superior’ classes who get a much better view of the water below and the surrounding scenery and then downstairs in the basement are the ordinary class( that’s our group)! We arrive safely at Takamatsu with our self-esteem suitably damaged and take a small local train to the beautiful Ritsurin Gardens.
A local guide is on hand to take us through the gardens although her English does leave something to be desired.

Once again we are left to imagine how stunning these gardens might be with the cherry blossom in full bloom. Chiaki tells us that in all the years she has been visiting these gardens she can never remember such a late start to the Spring Cherry Blossom season.
Whilst we do manage to locate a few corners where the blossom is evident it still falls short of expectations.

  
Having said that the gardens are set against a magnificent backdrop of surrounding hills and the many ornamental ponds make it an enchanting place to visit, especially when we manage to view a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony, albeit at a distance. Moreover, the later-than-usual start to the cherry blossom season in no way deters the many visitors from enjoying a picnic with family/friends in various locations throughout the park.

 

 

 

We return to Okayama by the same route and as we have some time to spare we use the rest of the afternoon to visit the splendid Korakuen Gardens and the striking black Okayama Castle, otherwise known as Crow Castle for obvious reasons.

Chiaki travels with us in the taxi to the gardens and we have just entered when she see two lovely young ladies dressed in the most exquisite kimonos which we are told they are wearing as part of a Kimono festival.

A short time afterwards we meet another beautiful girl in a very decorative kimono together her two sisters and a very proud father. This celebration is apparently to mark her ‘ coming of age at the grand old age of 20.
Chiaki has found a typical Japanese ‘pub’ for our evening meal and 9 of us take the short walk from the hotel to the venue. What follows is a fine meal in a great atmosphere with some of the guys( including yours truly) knocking back some very large glasses of beer and the ladies not far behind with their sake. The food is similar to that served when a small group of us dined out at another small restaurant a couple of days earlier but without anyone smoking in the room.
We are required to take off our shoes on entering the pub and when Gail later needs to go to the toilet she has a fit of the giggles when she sees the lime green sandals that she puts on for the purpose. I suspect that the sake has a part to play in this performance.

Cheers
The Obese Ferret

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Day 6 – 1st April 2017
Okayama/ Hiroshima/Miyajima Island
We have been anticipating this day for some time now but given the devastation wrought on Hiroshima on the 8th of August 2017 we expect the visit to this site to be both exciting and very confronting.
We are blessed with some fine weather as we take the short rail journey to Hiroshima and on arrival take a short walk to the ferry terminal from where we will leave to cross to Miyajima Island, famous for Itsukushima Shrine and the floating torii gate. This gate is officially one of Japan’s ” Top 3 Views” and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Miyajima Sacred Goddess Floating Shrine is believed to protect the inland sea over which we have come.

After walking along the waterfront to gain the best photographic vantage points for the floating gate we make a short climb up to a pagoda which is set amongst some beautiful CHERRY BLOSSOMS. Hallelujah!

   

                        
On the start of our walk we had spotted a specialty shop offering waffles and hot chocolate and we returned there to sample their fare.

On arrival back at the ferry terminal on the mainland we take a tram to A-Bomb Dome, which marks the spot where at 8.15 am on 8th August 1945 the first atomic bomb was detonated approximately 600 metres above the city centre.
The heat rays and blast burned and crushed nearly all buildings within 2 kms of this hypocentre, taking thousands of lives and leaving many more with appalling injuries.
After crossing over the Hiroshima River we stop to take some photos of what remains of the Dome and then proceed into the Peace Memorial Park, stopping along the way to ring the huge Peace Bell and to view the Children’s Peace Monument.
Before entering the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum we also stop at the Cenotaph for the A- Bomb Victims. From this location we are able to gain a memorable view through an arch all the way down to the Dome.

  

It’s now time to conclude our visit to this city with over an hour at the Museum.
Regardless of what we may have read or seen about that fateful August morning in 1945 the images and objects showing very graphically the aftermath of the bombing will no doubt remain with us for long into the future.
Not surprisingly the Museum focuses on the impact of the bombing on Japan and its people with only a brief reference to the Japanese aggression that triggered the war and its repercussions. Notwithstanding the re-writing of history that has taken place the pain and suffering is there for all to see and no person embodies this more than a girl by the name of Sadako Sasaki.

  
Sadako was exposed to the A-Bomb when she was 2 years old and initially seemed to have emerged unscathed to become a very good young athlete. Sadly after 10 years she started to show signs of leukaemia. However, during her fight against this illness she started doing origami with the aim of folding 1000 paper cranes in the hope of finding a cure. Despite her efforts her life ended after a painful struggle. Sadako’s plight later become known internationally and even today she remains a symbol of hope and determination.
A truly memorable and thought-provoking day ends when we return to the station and the short trip back to Okinawa.
As we don’t have a group dinner organised for the evening we all troop off to a large dept store near to the hotel and eventually we find ourselves, together with Keith, in the ‘fast food’ department on the 4th floor. Never has an area been more inappropriately named as it takes 40 minutes for two very basic pasta-type dishes to arrive. To be fair the food is very good but I was by now too weakened by the lack of sustenance to appreciate the these culinary gems!

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

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Day 5 – 31st March 2017
Wake up to a wet, very cold day for our trip to Himeji Castle.
After checking out of our hotel we catch the underground to Kyoto station, a journey of only 4 minutes and then take the Bullet Train to Himeji( 40 minutes ).

The above photograph shows the incredibly sleek Shinkansen at its best and for me at least it has the same impact as the first time the famous black John Player Special Grand Prix car was unveiled to the public many years ago. If a piece of machinery can have sex appeal these two have it in bucketloads!

On arrival at Himeji we opt to take a bus from the station to the castle entrance as we are now in the middle of a torrential downpour. While on the bus I was just about to tell one of my fellow travellers, Lyn, that at least I have not been offered a seat by one of the seated elderly passengers, when, in perfect English a lady says to me ” would you care for a seat? ” As the lady looks  considerably older than I am Lyn, of course, finds the whole affair hilarious. I, naturally decline the kind offer and try to appear as sprightly as possible as I get off the bus.
Himeji is widely considered to be Japan’s most beautiful surviving feudal castle and designated both a National Treasure and UNESCO World Heritage site.
As we enter the castle we are required to remove our shoes which we place in plastic bags which we carry around during the whole tour.
The queues to get in are now ridiculously long and the teeming rain only makes matters worse.
The interior of the castle is actually rather underwhelming but one particularly impressive feature is the central wooden pillar from cypress pine which rises vertically through the whole building. I will not forget my ascent to the top of the tower in a hurry as on one of the steep stairs I try to brain myself by bashing my head on a low beam. It’s a whole new experience for me to be taller than much of the local population!

  
We eventually emerge from the castle to find that the rain is abating somewhat and we, therefore, take a walk up to some of the gardens near the main entrance. From this vantage point we are able to gain a great photo of the castle which is clearly far more impressive from the exterior.

While waiting on the platform at the railway station for the return trip on the Bullet Train I notice that our motley group is not lining up for the train in the orderly, almost military, precision of the Japanese travellers. I, therefore, point out to them that they are giving Australia a very bad name and soon they have formed a queue which would not look out of place in a Trooping of the Colour Parade in London. Chiaki goes over to an adjoining queue of Japanese who are looking on in wry amusement and explains the reason for this spectacle. Much hilarity which totally debunks the myth of the ‘ inscrutable oriental’.

 

  

 

 

 

On arrival in Okayama we check into our  accommodation for the next 3 nights, Hotel Granvia which maintains the standard to which we have become accustomed.

Dinner is at a Japanese restaurant which offers a traditional BBQ. The meat is brought to the table and we cook this on a grid in the centre of said table.
Whilst the ambience of the establishment is great the quality of the food leaves something to be desired and falls short of the very high standard set previously on this tour. To make matters worse the group at our table ( there are two groups) tries to set fire to the restaurant until a waiter comes to our rescue and dowses the worryingly high flames!

It’s always good to end the day in a blaze of glory!

Off to Hiroshima tomorrow.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

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Day 4 – 30th March 2017

Sagano Arashimaya

An ideal day with the temperature expected to rise to 18 degrees so we head off by train to the beautiful Sagano Arashimaya district due west from Kyoto.
After a short walk we arrive at the Arashimaya Bamboo Park which initially disappoints but finally meets all our expectations as we get closer to the end and a very impressive, dense bamboo plantation.

We next move on to Tenryu-Ji Rinzai Zen Buddhist Temple, established in 1339 by the shogun AshikagaTakauji. In the centuries since its foundingTenryu-Ji has been ravaged by fire a total of 8 times, most recently in 1864. Most of the present buildings thus date only to the Meiji period (1868-1912.
However, the superb Sogenchi Garden behind the Main Hall was the first Special Historic Scenic Area named by the Japanese government and in 1994 it became a World Cultural Heritage site.
Once again the guide books remind us that during the spring the cherry-blossom make for a memorable stroll through the gardens around the lake. Maybe if we read this often enough our tour will live up to its name but at the moment the blossom is simply not cooperating, at least not to the degree anticipated for the end of March.

  

 

  
We are now in need of a caffeine fix and Chiaki has suggested that we go to the Arabica coffee shop overlooking the Katsura River not far from the railway station. We find ourselves thwarted in our quest by a long queue and instead backtrack to Tully’s coffee shop at the station, but not before we check out the famous Tugetsu-kyo wooden bridge over the river.

Not in any way daunted by the reluctant cherry blossom the local authorities have erected a superb display of spring decorations along the platforms at the railway station. Hopefully their optimism will be rewarded over the coming days.

We arrive back at our hotel in Kyoto with time to spare to first take a look at some very rare pink blossom in a nearby street and then it’s off to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It is no longer the official residence of the Japanese Emperor but it is nevertheless an impressive building. The original imperial palace was built in 794 but was later replaced on a number of occasions after destruction by fire.

 

The Imperial Palace Park which surrounds the palace itself is apparently planted with a huge array of flowering trees and is most beautiful in late February and late March with the so far totally non-existent plum and cherry blossom!

  

Eight of the group have chosen to go on an optional tour which offers a tradional Japanese dinner with a Geisha performing a couple of traditional dances.
The dinner is held in a restaurant with a private room reserved for our party only.
Chiaki gives us a briefing on the strict protocol that applies for such a geisha show and what follows is a very professional and authentic performance. By way of explanation ‘geisha’ is not the term used in Kyoto, recognised as the geisha capital, but instead they are referred as ‘maiko’ for girls 15- 20 years who are still in training and ‘geiko’ if fully-fledged.

  

The girl that arrives to entertain us is a delightful young girl of 17 who first performs her dances in what can best be described as a ‘trance-like’ state but who then becomes much more natural as she serves us our drinks and assists us with the use of the chopsticks and the procedure for the meal.

Perhaps the most enlightening part of the evening is when she does a question and answer session with us ( using Chiaki as interpreter ) and in doing so gives us a real insight into the world of the maiko or geiko.
I suspect that some of our group would have felt a degree of sadness that a young girl would devote herself to this type of life but she had clearly not taken this step without going through a lot of soul-searching.
I for one had feared that this evening would be similar to a ‘faux’ performance such we had seen among the Masai tribesmen in Africa but nothing could have been further from the truth with the young maiko putting on a very impressive show.
Gail and Chiaki do provide us with a moment of humour when Gail points to a piece of food in front of her and asks “what is this?’ hoping for some local knowledge. Chiaki merely replies ‘where did you get it from?’ She was actually meaning ” from which plate?”but the  hilarity came more  from Chiaki’s incredulous look and her special way of expressing herself than  her actual words and we were all left wondering what the real source of the food was.
We rounded off a truly memorable evening with Chiaki taking us on a walking tour through the Gion district which is the centre of the Geiko world in Kyoto. We return to the hotel somewhat enlightened but also with many questions about the mystical world of the Geiko/Geisha still left unanswered,

Tomorrow it’s off to the famous Himeji Castle and maybe some long-awaited spring blossoms!
Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Day 3 – 29th March 2017
Kyoto
Another clear day with an expected top temperature of 18 degrees and at our usual starting time of 9.00 am we are off on the train to the Shinto Shrine of Fushimi-Inari -Taisha south-east of Kyoto. This vast shrine complex is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii ( gates ) which are spread across the wooded mountain-side. Fushimi-Inari was dedicated to the gods of rice and sake by the Hata family in the 8th century and remains one of the most impressive and visited sites in Kyoto. One unusual feature of the shrine is the hundreds of stone foxes. The fox is considered the messenger of Inari, the god of cereals, and the stone foxes are often called Inari.
In common with other shrines and temples in Japan we are certainly not ‘ Far from the madding crowd’ but I finally manage to put the Go-Pro and extension stick to good use over the top of the hordes.

After returning to the city centre by train we head off on foot to the Nishiki Market to see the huge array of foods that go into Kyoto cuisine. Chiaki is on hand to give us some guidance as we try to select some dishes to keep the pangs of hunger at bay. We end up with something which we find out later is octopus. Definitely an acquired taste!

The group now breaks up and Gail and I are joined by Keith from Sydney as we head north-east out of the centre by taxi to visit the Ginkaku-ji Buddhist temple which started its life in 1482 as a retirement villa for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa but after his death the villa was converted into a temple. ‘Ginkaku-ji’ literally means’ Silver Pavilion but the shogun failed in his ambition to cover the building with silver.

Ginkaku-Ji also marks the start of the very pleasant Path of Philosophy walk which follows a canal lined with cherry trees which usually come into spectacular bloom in late March/ early April. However, Murphy’s Law rears its ugly head again and the blossom is steadfastly refusing to appear so far this year.

We will no doubt be reminding Chiaki that our tour is called ‘Japan Cherry Blossom Dreams 2017’ over the coming days!
Our walk finishes at the Nansen-Ji Buddhist temple, one of the most impressive in Kyoto with its expansive grounds and the massive Sanmon structure which stands at the entrance.

Another taxi ride back to the hotel and it’s time for a short period of relaxation before we meet up with Chiaki and Keith in the hotel lobby.
Chiaki had previously asked the group whether anyone would be interested in going to a small restaurant offering traditional Japanese family food but there had been no takers. We had decided that we would probably go with Keith to a restaurant near the Daimaru dept store but with the prospect of Chiaki dining alone we agreed to join her at Taroya restaurant that she had already lined up pre the group’s apathy to the idea.
We were rewarded with a delightful evening of great food and good company which included a Japanese business owner at the adjoining table as he celebrated his 67th birthday with family members and an employee! In common with most Japanese restaurants of this type smoking is allowed but the ‘birthday boy’ is real gentleman and politely asks us whether we would mind if he has a cigarette. We haven’t the heart to deprive the ‘old’ guy of  this moment of pleasure on his birthday and he goes out of his way to make sure that what little smoke there is doesn’t head towards our table.
A perfect end to another thoroughly rewarding day.
Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Day 2 – 28th March 2017
Kyoto/Nara
Awaken to a bright sunny day with the expected high for the day 15 degrees.
Superb buffet breakfast at the hotel and then it’s off at 9.00am by coach to the Kinkakuji Temple and its most famous feature, the Golden Pavilion. The main hall, covered in magnificent gold leaf and overlooking a very picturesque reflecting pool, is truly spectacular. It is of course a victim of its own appeal and even at this relatively early time of day the hordes are already here. With the impending arrival of the celebrated spring cherry blossom the words ‘peace’ and ‘tranquility’ will cease to be synonymous with this beautiful location.

  
For those history buffs out there the original temple was built in 1397 but in 1950 a young monk decided to show his passion for the temple by burning it to the ground. A full reconstruction staying true to the original design was completed in 1955.
Our next port of call is the Nijo Castle built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu. The style of the main palace was clearly designed to demonstrate the prestige and power of the shogun and to underline the demise of the emperor’s power.

   

 

Over 400 years later visitors are still being put in their subservient place by being obliged to remove their shoes before setting foot within these hallowed walls. One member of our group was apparently forced to borrow a pair of his wife’s socks as his own had a hole in them! ( don’t forget that we had still not received our suitcases from Tokyo and supplies of socks were, therefore, rather limited.)

Ieyasu was clearly paranoid about the dangers he faced and to safeguard against any treachery he installed in the palace ‘ nightingale floors’ which as the name implies produce the call of a nightingale due to the mixture of wood and metal in their manufacture whenever people tread on them. An ingenious if rudimentary early alarm system!

Before setting off on the drive south to Nara (incidentally the birthplace of our guide Chiaki) we stop at a convenience store to stock up on some lunchtime snacks. The store has a fairly impressive range from which to choose and even the coffee is quite acceptable, notwithstanding the fact that the machine, initially at least, seems in dire need of a good urologist.

We finish off the day with a visit to one of the nation’s most visited sites, the Todaiji temple which houses the Daibutsu ( Great Buddha ), one of the largest bronze figures in the world. Originally cast in 746 and later recast during the Edo period the present statue stands just over 16 metres high and contains 437 tonnes of bronze and 130 kgs of gold.

The sheer immensity of the statue makes for an awe-inspiring sight especially as it is housed in the Daibutsu- den Hall which is one of the largest wooden buildings on earth. It’s perhaps a trifle churlish to mention that the cost of construction of the temple brought the country to the edge of bankruptcy.

With some time to spare before returning to our coach we take a pleasant stroll through the Nara Deer Park although we resist the temptation to spend 150 yen on biscuits to feed to the roaming ,and in some cases ,rather scrawny animals.

Rounding off a very rewarding and enjoyable day most of the group get together for a meal at Donguri , a traditional Japanese restaurant specialising in savoury pancakes. Delicious food at less than $20 a head.

Cheers
The Obese Ferret.

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Bogota

14th May 2016

Pleased to wake up to a fairly clear day which will be perfect for our tour of Bogota. As usual Angelo is at the hotel at 9.00 am and we head off to our first destination planned for the day, the Museo Nacional. Unfortunately, this doesn’t open until 10.00 so it’s off to the famous Museo del Oro (gold museum).

This is free for anyone over 60 and Gail duly presents her Passport  as proof. When I go to take out my Senior’s card the young girl behind the counter waves me through, incredulous that I could believe that there was any doubt as to my qualification. The youth of today just don’t have any respect for their elders these days.

The museum has an amazing array of gold objects going back over many centuries and it certainly justifies its reputation as the leading museum in Bogota. We spend close to 90 minutes following the history of gold in various parts of the world but can’t help but note that Oceania’s place in this history is relatively insignificant.

After leaving the museum Angel drives us back towards the historic centre where he drops us off at the Botero Museum. Fernando Botero’s style of painting is quirky to say the least but has a certain appeal even to an art philistine such as myself. The gallery also contains paintings by Picasso, Monet, Pizarro and Henry Moore.

Angel collects us from the museum and we drive closer to the Plaza Bolivar, park the car again and start our city tour on foot.

After a quick coffee at a Juan Valdez coffee bar we head off down to the magnificent Plaza which is teeming with both people and pigeons. Overlooking the square are several magnificent buildings including the Palace of Justice, House of Congress,  Bogota Town Hall, Cathedral and Presidential Palace ( otherwise known as the Palacio de Narino).

Our walking tour next takes us to the Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara which, with its opulence is reminiscent of the Compania de Jesus in Quito and then we are able take a stroll to view the ‘modest’ abode of the President.

After a quick chat to Angel we decide to forgo the visit to the Museo Nacional and instead visit some of the more Bohemian, older parts of the city in the area called Candelaria. It’s fairly apt when we view a street called Calle de Agonia and another called Calle de Pena. (agony and sorry ) especially as we have just struggled in the thin air to make it up a very steep rise.

We finally reach the Plaza Chorro de Quevedo where the first house in Bogota is to be found and crowds of university students sit around smoking joints with impunity. Drug-taking in this area seems to be rife and the authorities seemingly turn a blind eye to these activities.

Angel is very protective of his foreign visitors and continually guides us away from the less salubrious areas.

Whilst Colombia is far less dangerous than previously ultra caution needs to be taken and more than one local reminded us not to be too obvious with our cameras.

As we have a very early start again the next day we head back to the carpark and our hotel for a quick drink and dinner in the hotel restaurant.

The short stay in Bogota has been an absolute delight and this country is clearly on the move compared with Ecuador. However, Angel explains that whether the development will be sustained is very much dependant on the ability of the government to sign a peace accord in the near future with the still powerful guerrilla forces.

Cuba awaits tomorrow so watch this space.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Bogota

13th May 2016

Wake up early after a night when our sleep was first of all interrupted by some guests arriving round about midnight , shouting and slamming doors in the adjoining rooms. They then gave a repeat performance between 2.30 and 3.00 am when they seemingly needed to check out early. They spoke neither Spanish nor English and sounded Chinese although my knowledge of Mandarin hovers between negligible and nil.

The breakfast in the hotel is superb and in spite of the sleep deprivation we are ready to venture out and Mr Punctuality Angel arrives at 9.00am.

With the weather rather drab we set off to the north of the city and we are soon out into some very green, fertile land.

Angel draws our attention to some very fine large houses and explains that these are in fact used for events, presumably functions such as weddings , but also for films and soapies.

Our main destination today is the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira. This is a church built in a salt mine which is still functioning. After the original mine/ cathedral was closed down when there were safety issues due to water getting in to the mine this new deeper version was opened 20 years ago.

When we first arrive to buy tickets for the mine we are advised that we can tour the cathedral but as we are over 60 we cannot follow the miners’ route during which one can experience the everyday work of a miner. This rejection takes place just as a bus load of seriously obese young American tourists are sent on their merry way to risk cardiac arrest!

Whilst the cathedral is obviously more meaningful for the many Catholics who see this as something of a pilgrimage it is nevertheless an awesome sight even for the less devout among the hordes of visitors.

Apart from the cathedral the town of Zipaquira is a delightful town with a beautiful main square surrounded by some fine old buildings with balconies overlooking the area.

A number of travel guides and our new-found Colombian friends had stressed that we should absolutely visit Andres Carne de Res Restaurant. When we first mention to Angel that we could perhaps give this a miss he was very insistent that this would be a mistake. We, therefore , duly arrived at the spot and for the next hour and a half we enjoy an experience which is quite unique. The food, ambience, music and the cacophony of noise which assaults the senses make for a surreal lunchtime meal.

Gail ordered a mojita which came in a bowl the size of a soup dish and we left ourselves to the tender mercies of two female waiters as they selected the dishes on our behalf.

Angel and the others had been absolutely right and a visit to this unique establishment is a must.

It’s now time to head back to Bogota but first we have to call into a shopping centre to sort out a problem with Gail’s computer. Before leaving the hotel earlier today Gail had discovered an issue with the charger on the MacBook.

Fearing the worst we find an IShop and to our relief the young manager quickly identifies the problem, namely some sand grains in the connection. Any offer to pay the young man is met with the comment that ” your gratitude is all the reward I need”. Would that the commercial world was always like this.

It’s long,slow trip back due to the very heavy traffic we are sure that Angel is one very tired driver at the end of the day.

Gail catches up on sorting out some photographs for the blog and I spend some time writing a couple more blog entries.

Our impression of Colombia becomes more positive by the day and it has been great to get out of the city into the rural areas.

No need for dinner after such a lunch so we are both off to bed at a reasonable hour.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Bogota

12th May 2016

We set the alarm for a very early start and have to forgo the pleasure of the hotel breakfast. Predictably, we arrive at the Quito Airport well ahead of time and briefly meet up with Shen from China who had been on our Tren Ecuador trip. After a futile search for the excellent coffee shop, Juan Valdez, one of which we had seen on our arrival at Guayaquil Airport we have have to settle for one of the Amazonia Coffee Bars and order a croissant for Gail and a Bagel for myself.  Apart from the fact that the food is truly dreadful and the tepid coffees even worse the whole establishment is the epitome of chaos. This in the country where the coffee has been of the highest quality throughout our trip.

Once again the very impressive Avianca airline is right on time with its flight to Bogota and in about 1 hour and 20 minutes we find ourselves in the Arrivals Hall where we are soon met by Angel Moreno our driver/ guide for our 3 night stay in the Colombian capital. Angel has been recommended to us by Sara Clemencia, a fellow guest on the Galápagos boat. He is a delightful man in his sixties ( we think ) and he makes it clear to us that he will make himself available to us for the full duration of our stay and will do everything possible for us to get the most out of our visit.

Angel speaks no English whatsoever so my very rusty Spanish is going to be put to the test in no uncertain manner.

He provides us with some very valuable information on his country and city as we make the trip into the centre.

The Hotel Estelar on Calle 93 ( another of Sara Clemencia’s recommendations ) is in a lovely location and it’s immediately apparent that we have arrived in a country which is on a totally different level to Ecuador both in terms of its economy and its sophistication.

We make it clear to Angel that we want to take it easy on our first day but we do agree to meet him at 2.30 that afternoon when he will take us to the cable car up to the Cerro de Monserrate ( Mount Monserrate ). With the weather forecast to take a turn for the worse in the evening Angel feels that this is the best time to visit one of Bogota’s most famous location. The cable car is up a very steep slope which means that this ferret spends all the time facing the rock face rather than taking in the undoubtedly spectacular views of the city below.

Monserrate is in superb location surrounded by mountains and the whole complex, including the church is beautifully maintained.

Bogota is a little over 2600 metres above sea level and the cable takes us up to 3170 where we definitely feel the effect of the thinner air.

We stay for over an hour then return to the hotel with Angel providing us with some very valuable information on the area and some potential dining spots for the evening.

We eventually settle on a very fine fish restaurant, Pesquera Jaramillo. The atmosphere and the food both live up to the hype from Angel and even a very rowdy group of Chinese on the next table can’t detract from a very enjoyable evening in this impressive city.

Although Colombia and Bogota are no longer as dangerous as in years gone by this restaurant , in common with many others has its own private security guard  keeping a close watch on things. It also has 5 large tv screens showing mainly sport, something else about which we had been forewarned.

All in all a great start to our stay and so it’s off to bed and hopefully a very good night’s sleep.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

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Friday 6th May

Puerto Villamil

Bags are packed and ready to go before breakfast ( at 6.00 am! ) and on the pangas by 6.45.

On our way to the airport we make a quick visit to one of The Twins, two huge sink-holes on either side of the road.

Sylvia and David from the crew accompany us to the airport and we are soon winging our way to Guayaquil where some of our fellow tourists will also get off whilst the remainder will continue their trip back to Quito.

Looking back on the week the most lasting impression has been the harmony of the group and the camaraderie established.  With so many disparate personalities from many backgrounds there is inevitability some apprehension as to how the week will pan out. I can only speak for Gail and myself but on that score any fears have been totally unfounded and this latest tick on our Bucket List has been a very rewarding and happy experience.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret ( who at one stage was convinced that he had really stacked on some weight, only to find that he was trying to put his leg into the arm-hole of his wetsuit!)

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Thursday 5th May 2016

Puerto Villamil/ Tintoreras

Breakfast at 6.00 am!

Dry landing and it’s off on a short walk to Las Tintoreras where we view an assortment of marine wildlife including sea lions, penguins, marine iguanas, marbled rays and for the first time some reef sharks, the last mentioned at very close quarters.

Four pick up trucks arrive to take us on a 45 minute drive to the lower slopes of the volcano Sierra Negra which last erupted in 2005. We are then faced with a moderately demanding trek to the rim of the crater which is second only to Ngorongoro crater in Tanzania in size, being 9 kilometres across.

It’s a spectacular sight and we are able to take a few group photographs on this the penultimate day of our tour of the Galapagos.

Sylvia is non too pleased when a couple of the pick up drivers arrive back late especially as they are contracted to stay at the initial drop off point to await our return from the trek. A fairly familiar scenario on the Galápagos Islands.

Back on board Tip Top 2 for lunch and  then another dry landing and off to the giant tortoise breeding centre near the town of Punta Villamil. This programme has been a resounding success and the total tortoise population is now in the region of 30,000 in the Galápagos.

On the return to town Tom and Debbie our two American amigos from Montana are dropped off at their hotel where they will be staying for the next 3 nights ( and sadly missing our cocktail get-together on board Tip Top 2)

The rest of the group divide into two parties, one made up of the alcoholics (including the Irelands) and the other healthier, clean- living mariners take to the beach, La Concha de Perla, for some last- minute snorkelling.

The visit of the alcoholics to a local bar makes for an amusing moment when this establishment has a Happy Hour Price List and a Standard  Price List. In a couple of cases the HH price list is more expensive than the standard. The owner of the bar doesn’t seem to see any problem with this inconsistency but we eventually seem to get the more attractive of the two price lists, whichever it is!

  

The town & beach of Punta Villamil including Sea Lions which are very much a part of life at this small port.

We are back on board Tip Top 2 by 5.30 and at 6.30 we assemble at the upper deck bar for farewell cocktails. In front of the assembled crew and guests the Captain makes a speech for which Sylvia is the interpreter and adding some comments of her own. Sara Clemencia, one of the lovely sisters from Bogota, responds on behalf of the guests and to finish with the Obese Ferret is roped in to say a few words in English.

The Last Supper includes a very tasty chocolate cake and a good time is had by all.

Some of linger to sit round the large dining table to talk over our week on board Tip Top 2 and recalling some of the memorable of which there have been many.

Off to bed as we have yet another early start the next day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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4th May

Isabela Island/ Urbina Bay

We seem to have left our previous night’s mooring at Espinosa Point between 3 and 4 am to make the relatively short trip to Urbina Bay.

We make a slightly earlier start than usual to be ahead of our sister ship Tip Top  3 ( on the panga by 7.45 ). Times in this area have to be allotted fairly rigidly as a considerable number of groups are visiting the bay.

After a short panga trip we make a non-too-easy landing on a steep coral beach with a sizeable swell making life rather difficult. It’s on these occasions that it’s good to have a couple of very capable Tip Top crew members in Andreas and David to bring us into shore.

Once ashore we follow a short trail to a coral reef which experienced a  4 metre uplift from the sea in 1954. For the first time we enjoy sightings of the tawny- coloured land iguana which is considerably larger than its marine relative and some land turtles.

As fas as the bird life is concerned a Galápagos hawk makes an appearance as do finches, mocking birds and the beautiful yellow warblers.

We return to the beach across an area which marks the border of the old beach pre-1954.

We have a short break back on board Tip Top before some of the group (yours truly included) swim/snorkel off the boat. For me the exercise is all about getting my confidence back after the earlier snorkelling forays. Mission accomplished!

Tip Top now proceeds to Elizabeth Bay ( as if her majesty doesn’t have enough places named after her)

After lunch we have a very welcome break until 3.00 pm when we set off on the pangas for a tour of the nearby mangrove swamps. This proves to be an absolute delight as we come across numerous speckled stingrays, turtles and sea lions which somehow have managed to climb up into the mangrove branches and roots. With the engine of the panga turned off and only a paddle used by David one could not ask for a more tranquil scene as we explore these pristine waters.

Dinner is brought forward as Tip Top meets rougher seas as we leave Elizabeth Bay bound for Puerto Villamil on the south coast of Isabela Island.

Happy to be tucked up in bed by 9 as we have a 6.00 am breakfast call for the next day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Tuesday 3rd May 2016

Isabela Island/ Vicente Roca Point

After having travelled overnight from Santiago Island we cross the equator shortly before 6 am and arrive at Vicente Roca Point.

After having travelled along on the northwestern wall of the crater we round the corner and find ourselves on the southern side of the crater rim and in a bay well protected from the ocean swells. This is our anchor point for the morning and we are fortunate that we are able to take in the views from the balcony of our cabin.

The famous Ireland digestive system has been playing up overnight so I have to forgo the panga trip round the island. The other eleven passengers get to view much wildlife including a Sun Fish, Turtles, a Galápagos Hawk, Marine Iguanas, Penguins and Sea Lions.  

I make good use of the time to bring the blog up-to-date.

Back on board only a short break is taken and then it’s back again in the pangas and snorkelling under the high cliff walls for some. This time I do get on board but stay out of the water to be on the safe side as I don’t wish to suffer the indignity of being rushed back to the loo on board Tip Top 2.

The water is still fairly murky but we do gain good views of the Turtles and for the first time ( for me ) two very small Penguins.

Lunch is followed by a long period of relaxation on board during which the boat takes across to the island of Fernandina and Punta Espinoza.

During lunch we have a mass exodus from the dining room as the captain has spotted a Sperm Whale ahead of the boat. Although he ( or she) didn’t put on a spectacular performance we do get a wave of the tail as a finale.

At 3 pm we make a fairly tricky landing in shallow water and set off on a walk along the narrow stretch of land and lava rocks of Punta Espinosa which is home to an huge colony of Marine Iguanas, many of whom are much larger than we have seen to date. Sadly we again ample evidence of the high mortality rate among these unique creatures. The Turtles seem quite content to swim in the pools alongside the Iguanas and we also come across a couple of Sea Lions.

First sightings of Flightless Cormorants, the tiny Lava Lizards and some small Snakes which Sylvia assures Gail are harmless!

At long last we catch sight of the previously elusive Hawk, albeit at a fair distance.

Back on board Tip Top we are treated to the most glorious of sunsets to end what has been a glorious day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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2nd May 2015

Santiago Island

Overnight we have travelled west to Santiago Island and James Bay and our morning excursion takes us along the blackened coastline where lava has eroded. We very soon come across some Fur Seals swimming in the clearest water we have so far seen on this trip.

One could spend all day observing these beautiful creatures but there are Marine Iguanas, Sally Lightfoot Crabs and a solitary Blue Heron to see. Sadly we see ample evidence of the toll climate change has taken on the Iguana population.

After lunch we embark on a walk from the beach at Buccaneer Cove,

at first crossing an open, arid area surrounded by mangrove vegetation before gradually climbing up the deeply wooded slopes above a small lagoon.

We are in search of a hawk which frequents this area but all to no avail. We do come across countless small birds such as Finches and Mocking Birds and Pelicans making spectacular dives into the water.

With both the temperature and the humidity climbing rapidly we are all quite happy to get back into the Panga and head back to Tip Top 2.

  

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Saturday 30th April 2016

Overnight we have made our way north to the island of Santiago and after breakfast we land at the vast Sullivan lava field caused by by a volcanic eruption 200 years ago. Even in this harsh environment plants such as the low- lying mollugo and lava cactus manage to survive. The lava flow has produced an astonishing variety of patterns when pockets of gas or water trapped under the lava exploded.

We later climb to a lookout on the nearby Bartolomew Island, which together with Sullivan Bay was named after the naturalist friend of Charles Darwin, Sir Bartolomew James Sullivan, who was Lieutenant aboard HMS Beagle.

Snorkelling from the beach later in the day not totally satisfactory as the water, especially close in to the shore which is where I usually spend my time is very murky. To make matters worse my snorkel was continually letting in water.

 However, I did manage to provide some entertainment for my fellow travellers when I charged head-on towards what I thought was the slim, streamlined figure of Chandra from Switzerland when snorkelling only to find that I was in fact on a collision course towards a sea lion. Next time I will remember that the sea lion is the one without the snorkel and the bright blue fins!

However, the preparations on board our vessel before snorkelling did provide some entertainment. I was explaining to some of the other passengers that I would be fine in the water if I could wear a wetsuit, a life jacket and those things that fit under your arms. I was struggling to find the word for them when Gail helped out with ” spaghetti “!  ‘Noodle’ was what I was searching for and I suppose one has to be grateful that Mrs I didn’t come up with ‘gnocchi’ or ‘fettuccine’.

Finish off the day with another relaxing dinner and then it’s off to bed after a quick rundown on the next day’s programme from Sylvia.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Sunday 1st May 2016

Genovesa Island

A decidedly rough passage overnight from Bartholemew Island to Genovesa although in our case this did not prevent us from getting a good night’s sleep.

Our first excursion out takes us to El Barranco where after landing we negotiate some very steep steps and make our way through a huge seabird colony.

El Barranco is also called Prince Phillip’s Steps after he visited this spot and probably made a donation to the wildlife cause. Obsequiousness knows no international bounds!

We gain our first close-up of the red-footed boobies which are beautiful looking birds with their  light teal beaks, Nazca boobies ,storm petrels, swallow-tailed gulls and last but not least the great frigate birds. The male of the last- mentioned species is notable for its ability to greatly inflate the red membrane on its chest during the mating season. This will stay inflated for up to 20 days but if no mate is found it will deflate. Very reminiscent of the human race although the 20 days might be a bit optimistic for most men!

Sylvia takes us a quick detour to a small lagoon where we find a single flamingo standing in the shallow water waiting for his/ her luck to change.

Walking along the 25 metre high coastal rock shelf we also gain sight of a number of fur seals.

The afternoon sees us in Darwin Bay slightly north of El Barranco and we land at a black coral beach where a 750 metre trail takes us through more seabird colonies. It’s fascinating to watch the mating rituals of the red-footed boobies in particular and we spend some time observing a particularly aloof female pretending to ignore the overtures of not one but two males.

More red pouch-laden frigate birds are seen resting on rocks or in plants and numerous mocking birds complete the scene.

Finally, we return to the beach where I try on the snorkel set borrowed from Sylvia and although the water is hardly pristine with so much bird life around it’s an opportunity to regain my confidence after the previous day’s snorkelling debacle.

A minor drama as Maria Isobel, Sara Clemencia’s sister is unceremoniously dumped back into the water in trying to board the panga to head back to the boat. However, no damage done to either Maria Isabel or her camera equipment.

We end the day leaning over the rails of he boat and enjoying the remarkable sight of the fish and more particularly a couple of sharks as they move along under the bows of the vessel and illuminated by the ship’s lights.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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Friday 29th April 2016

Neither of us enjoy a really good night’s sleep although I fare better than Gail.

A taxi arranged by Columbus Travel ( driver Javier ) arrives at the agreed time of 4.30 am and we are met at the Quito airport by Sebastian who smooths our path through Immigration and Customs.

We have an amusing moment when we are standing in a fairly long queue waiting to get through Immigration when another tour guide pushes forward and shepherds her charges through and past us in spite of protestations and apologies from a very polite American guy in her group. One poor unsuspecting fellow tags on to  the US group before being verbally accosted by Mrs I who in a none too subtle way challenges his right to be going past us. On admitting his guilt he is directed to his rightful place at the back of the queue.

The last I saw of him he was receiving counselling from airport staff!

As we have some spare time before the flight departure we decide to have coffees at airport cafe. One cappuccino and one double shot espresso find us $ 11.95 worse off. I’m still not sure whether I should have declared the recent purchase of an Ecuadorian coffee plantation among our assets!

A short 38 minute flight brings us to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s largest city and after a short stop we are on the 1 hour 45 minute flight to Baltra Island.

We are greeted at the airport by Sylvia and then taken by bus to the mooring where we find our home for the next week Tip Top 2.

There is a slight delay as some work is carried out on cabins recently vacated by the previous group of tourists. Once on board we are given a briefing by Sylvia Panchana who is the tour leader before lunch at noon.

Sylvia is of Swiss origin but after many years on these islands she speaks fluent Spanish to go along with her English and Swiss- German.

The cabins are vastly superior to those on the Aurora Polar Pioneer which took us last year to Antarctica.

The afternoon sees us at Playa Las Bachas on the north shore of Santa Cruz Isla where as an introduction to the Galápagos we take a stroll along the beach and come across an array of birds including frigate birds, pelicans , a solitary flamingo and blue heron. Sally Lightfoot crabs, warblers and marine iguanas complete the picture.

On the beach we come across remnants of one of the World War 11 barges which give this beach its name.

A quick dip in the ocean by some of the group rounds off a splendid first day in this far-flung part of the world.

Back on board the boat for dinner at 7.00 pm and then a quick rundown by Sylvia on the next day’s programme.

First impressions on the boat and crew bode well for a great adventure on Tip Top 2 and we seem to have a very pleasant group of fellow travellers with whom to share this experience.

Sylvia is very much across her brief and the whole operation is very professional.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

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