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Sunday 3rd August 2014

Start the day with a lovely breakfast cooked on the BBQ by Dean and then prepared the camper trailer and ourselves for the long trip north to the start of the Gibb River Road.
Kylie had kindly made us some fresh homemade bread and provided us with some corned beef for the journey.
After two great days with Dean, Kylie and the kids it’s time to get out of the comfort zone and tackle some serious outback travel.
Dean had forewarned us that the trip from Dampier to Derby would be less than enthralling and he was ‘spot on’.

This stretch of road is really nothing more than a mini Nullabor Plain and apart from a quick coffee break on a very windswept foreshore in Port Hedland ( not one of the most beautiful towns) and a lunch stop at Sandfire Roadhouse ( about 420 kms south of Broome ) where we enjoyed Kylie’s lovely bread and corned beef we merely tried to cover as much distance as we could during daylight hours.

However, coming into Port Hedland we had to confront convoys of extra wide trucks carrying plant machinery from the enormous Port Hedland iron ore operation. These make Gail nervous and at one point almost screamed at me to pull to the side to allow one large rig to go through. Now I do understand how drivers are required to act in such situations but Gail and I differ on how far in advance of the truck’s arrival one needs to pull over. It’s just that I feel that we should wait until the trucks and ourselves are in the same time zone!

We eventually make it to Nita Downs free camp site which in truth is pretty terrible but after covering over 600 kms we were both happy to get an early night in preparation for next day’s stage to Windjana Gorge some 520 kms ahead off the Gibb River Road.
So far the car and trailer are performing beautifully although we know that stiffer challenges probably await us on the GRR.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

Saturday 2nd August 2014.

As is to be expected during the dry season in the north of WA we awake to another superb day and as Kylie is involved with a fund-raising event at the local school Dean has arranged for the five of us including Dryden and Kaysha to visit a local beach , the salt mining plant and a site of some Aboriginal rock paintings.
Dryden and Kaysha are great kids but could not be more different. Kaysha is a lovely little girl who loves to pose as soon as the camera comes out whilst Dryden is a real character who always has the look of a little fellow who has either just been into mischief or who is about to embark on some minor misdemeanour. At this stage in his life he has come to the conclusion that his cheeky grin will enable him to get away with most things and he is probably right!

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The visit to the beach provides us with one interesting moment. I wandered off down the beach leaving my sandals on the sand and in spite of Dean’s comment that the tide was coming in I was confident that the said sandals would be safe from the water- wrong again. Gail and I return to the sight of Dean 30 metres out with water up to his thighs retrieving one sandal.
We then head off to view the huge Dampier Salt Plant and then finish off with a drive to view some impressive Aboriginal Rock Paintings in a nearby Gorge.

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Returning to Dean’s house he kindly loans us a fan to use on our travels and we purchase a chemical loo from him to use when camp facilities are lacking in such essentials. Just like his parents he has gone out of his way to ensure that we will have all we need for this trip- much appreciated.

End the day with a fantastic corned beef dinner served up by Kylie.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

Friday 1st August.

Finish the now fairly routine process of decamping at a reasonably early time and embark on the next stage from Mia Mia to Dampier, where we will meet up with Lyn’s son Dean, his friend Kylie and her two children, daughter Kaysha and son Dryden.

Again nothing much to report about the 600 kms drive as the scenery is decidedly underwhelming and we arrive at Dean’s house about 2 pm.
We park our trailer in his front yard, admittedly with some help from Dean. I am gradually mastering the art of reversing the trailer but the three hours it would take for me would make for a very late night!
Dean works for Rio Tinto in a senior role as Site Supervisor and takes us on a truly fascinating tour of this enormous plant, the scale of which is awe-inspiring. In fact it’s difficult to know which is the more impressive , the staggering size of the plant or Dean’s remarkable in-depth knowledge of not only his specific work but also the workings of the overall Rio Tinto operation at Dampier/ Karratha.

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In the evening we head off to the nearby Sailing Club and enjoys some superb food at very reasonable prices.

I turn in for the night wondering what the hell will happen if the rate of economic growth in China slows down by just a couple of percentage points.
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Cheers

The Obese Ferret

Thursday 31st July

Up bright and early and pleased to find that packing the camper- trailer is a very straightforward exercise. Our aim is to get up into the Kimberley as quickly as possible and on this trip we will not be making any detours to such well- known locations as Monkey Mia , Denham , Coral Bay or Exmouth. They will have to wait for another day. Apart from a quick drive through the township of Carnarvon we have a very uneventful 700 kms drive, through some fairly uninspiring country, aiming to reach a campsite about 220 kms north of Carnarvon.

Unfortunately about 50 kms short of our intended destination we encounter an extra wide load which takes up the whole of the road. After crawling behind it for about 10 kms we admit defeat, do a u-turn and check into the Mia Mia free camping ground.Whilst this does not have any showers the toilets are fine and we are able to find a location far from the madding crowd with their large caravans and noisy generators.

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We now have erecting the trailer down to a fine art and get off to bed confident that we are well on the way to becoming seasoned off-road travellers!
Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

Wednesday 30th July.

Our first stop as we drive north through Perth is to call in to Pioneer to collect a duplicate key which fits most of the compartments on the trailer. The first one had snapped off in one of the locks a day earlier- not a good note on which to set off.

We eventually leave Perth at shortly after 10.00 am and by early evening we find ourselves in Northampton, 477 kms north of Perth, at a well- appointed caravan park. Arriving in the gathering evening gloom may not appear to be ideal for such off – road travel novices but it does offer one major advantage as fellow travellers are not able to see Gail and me attempt our first erection of this trip! We finally manage to get the trailer up after three attempts and settle in for a very comfortable first night on the road.

Cheers
The Obese Ferret

Monday 28 th July 2013

For much of 2014 Gail had been asking me what I would like to do to celebrate my 70th this year and after weighing up a number of options I had decided, in a moment of madness, that Gail and I could head north and spend 4 weeks driving the iconic Gibb River Road from Derby to Kununurra. Now for anyone as auto-mechanically challenged as me this is tantamount to climbing Mt Everest with two broken legs but as they say ” there is no fool like a septuagenarian fool !”
So we find ourselves collecting an off-road camper which we are hiring from Pioneer Camper Trailers in Perth. Probably recognizing our inexperience from about 5 kms away they have kindly offered us a deal whereby we can pick up the trailer today although the actual rental period starts on 1st August . This is designed to help us become more familiar with the trailer before setting off up north. They also upgrade us from the basic Prospector model to the Argyle with improved suspension.

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Having collected the trailer we head off to stay with Gail’s sister Lyn and husband Bert for two nights before leaving Perth on 30 th July.
Over the next couple of days Lyn and Bert provide us with an off- road travel induction course and we are able to benefit greatly from their past experiences in the Kimberley area of WA. Thanks to them both we set off far better prepared for this demanding trip than we would have been without their invaluable help.

Cheers

Obese Ferret

 

Monday 4th August 2014

Quite happy to get up early and get out of Nita Downs Holiday Camp ( also known as Stanley Camp) after our normal Weight Watchers breakfast .
As we had decided not to take a detour to the Eighty Mile Beach the long road up the Roebuck Plains Roadhouse was another nondescript stretch of highway. Although we settled just for a cup of coffee at the roadhouse we saw ample evidence of many truckies tucking into enormous breakfasts, not doubt much needed as they drive the huge road trains in this part of the world.

On this occasion we do not call into Broome as we will be calling in to see Keith and Sandra Yelverton who have a holiday apartment in the town on our way back to Perth in a few weeks time.

However, we do drive up to Derby to stock up on provisions before we hit the Gibb River Road.

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The infamous Boab Prison Tree near Derby

Gail had worked at Derby Hospital as a radiographer in 1967 and seemingly not a great deal has changed from that time.
We saw evidence of this when we tried to buy some cask wine ( more practical to carry than bottles when camping ). The shop assistant explained that cask wine is prohibited in The Northern Territory, presumably because of drinking issues among the locals but we are amused to see a young aboriginal guy buy a carton of 10 bottles of wine without any questions being asked.

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5 kms south of Derby we finally hit the Gibb River Road and after 124 kms we take our first side trip down to Windjana Gorge. As we arrive in late afternoon we only have time to set up camp and enjoy dinner under a beautiful night sky. We also meet up with Ron and Liz from Leura in the NSW Blue Mountains. As they had been driving the same model Toyota Prada as our own for 11 years and towing a similar camper trailer we were able to glean a lot of valuable information on the joys and the perils of off-road travel.

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Just over 500 kms covered during the day so gradually racking up the kms.

Cheers
The Obese Ferret.

Tuesday 17th June 2014 Get up in time to see Erik set off to work in his Lycra and for Torill to take us to  the nearby Sandvika train station from where the airport train leaves. Sad to leave Scandinavia where we both feel so at home , not least because in both Sweden and Norway  all our friends speak such good English. As Swedish and Norwegian are very similar I cope fine by speaking the former in both countries but it has been fascinating to observe groups of up to ten people, all speaking English, as a courtesy to Gail.  Gail has obviously appreciated this but on at least one occasion she has reminded a couple of Swedes or Norwegians that they should feel free to speak their native tongue when speaking to each other rather than struggling to find the appropriate words in English!

That’s all for this blog and I’ m not sure when followers( both of you!) can expect their next boredom fix.

 

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

Monday 16th June 2014.

 

Erik has already set off on his bike ride to his office by the time we appear for a very leisurely breakfast.  Blue skies once again so while Erik is keeping the wheels of the Norwegian industry moving we have decided to make the most of this glorious weather and drive out to a nearby lake, Semsvannet, for a short walk. We pick up Bobben and Annie and after a short drive arrive in a beautiful rural setting from where we set off around the lake. Bobben is in very fine form today and he really steps it out on what becomes a fairly lengthy hike. In fact Bobben sets the pace for much of the time and on a couple of occasions rejects suggestions that we should turn back to the car park area.

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Annie Bobben Torill

The Crown Prince of Norway resides in this area so it’s good to be able to rub shoulders with royalty, albeit at a distance!

We eventually make our way back to the cafe at the start of the walk and Bobben kindly treats us all to coffee and VERY filling waffles.

A dinner is planned at Bobben’s for that evening so we drop Bobben and Annie off at his house  and get back to E and T’s just in time to see Erik arrive back from work earlier than usual. Obviously, the wheels of industry in Norway are not as dependant on Erik Haug Hansen as we thought!

Bobben is providing the venue for the BBQ/ dinner but Erik and his younger brother Tore are actually preparing the meal. Erik, therefore, walks down to Bobben’s ahead of Torill, Gail and myself to start the ball rolling.

When we join the party we catch up with young Tore and Espen, Bobben’s middle son, who had worked at Ladybird for a time when I was working there. It’s good to meet up with them again,reminisce over the old times, and to meet Espen’s Brazilian fiancée, Janie. Unfortunately, Tore’s wife, Annelene, couldn’t be with us on this occasion. However, Niklas does arrive and acts as resident photographer, taking snaps of all of the oldies for posterity. The only grandchild missing is Sunniva, Erik and Torill’s daughter who is studying veterinary science in Budapest. However, we had been able to have quick chat with her  on Skype the previous evening.

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Janie, Espen, Annie, Bobben, Tore, David,Torill, Eric

 

What follows is yet another fantastic meal, with Tore putting his special stamp on the many of the dishes and this memorable family get-together is in some ways for Gail and myself a fairly emotional reminder of the many wonderful meals we have enjoyed with Bobben and his very special family out on the patio overlooking the garden during our long friendship.

Gail and I stay for a short chat with Bobben and Annie after everyone else has left and then say our farewells to this lovely couple.

Erik definitely getting to bed early as I think The Obese Ferret has worn out this hard-working fellow by his late night chatter. Apart from anything else G and I have to leave early next day for the train to Oslo airport.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

 

Sunday 15th June 2014.

After encountering some fairly ordinary weather during our stay in Europe, Scandinavia is really coming up trumps and we awake to a glorious day. To make the most of this opportunity Erik has kindly arranged for us all to go out on his boat for the day. Apparently, Norway has the highest per capita boat ownership in the world so we don’t expect to be on our own out in the Oslo Fjord.

Erik  has a lovely Nordkapp boat moored a short drive away from their home and our party of six ( Erik, Torill,  Bobben, Annie, Gail and myself ) sets off mid- morning with the temperature in the mid-20 ‘s.

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Spots where we can anchor the boat and clamber onto one of the many rocky islands in the fjord are not surprisingly in short supply but we do eventually manage to disembark and set ourselves up for an afternoon picnic. Erik heads off to pick up their eldest son Henrik, who had previously studied at university in Perth ( film and media studies ) while we just lounge around enjoying the sun and this idyllic location. On his return Erik donned a wetsuit and collected a an impressive quantity of mussels from the shallow waters off the rocks.

As we returned to the marina  a veritable armada of boats, of all shapes and sizes, was making its way through the many channels and clearly for many boaties it was more important to be seen rather than merely enjoy this pristine environment. We did come across Erik and Torill’s younger son, Niklas, on a boat with a group of mates and they certainly didn’t fit into the ‘ be seen ‘ category!

After a fairly tiring afternoon for Bobben and Annie they returned to Bobben’s house for some rest before once more gathering at E and T’s house for yet another superb BBQ on the outdoors deck. Niklas also arrived with his girlfriend Silje whom he had met when they were both studying in Edinburgh.

The Hansen family Toril, Annie,Bobbin,David, Eric

The Hansen family Toril, Annie,Bobbin,David, Eric

Previously collected mussels, cooked in wine, garlic and herbs, went down a treat, as a entree to the sumptuous feast.

Needless to say a good time was had by all and it capped off a memorable day with the Hansens.

Erik and I  don’t  talk as far into the night on this occasion as he has to go to work the next day while we layabouts continue to live a life of leisure.

Cheers

 

The Obese Ferret.

 

Saturday 14th June 2014

As we have a long north ahead of us we take a very early breakfast at Villa Helena and we are on our way soon after 9.00 am.

Sake , Britt-Marie , Sven and Anna have all treated us royally during our short stay and once again we have been able to catch with our good friends without missing a beat after a number of years.

With a bit of prompting from Britt-Marie we have told Sake that we will come back in 3 years time for his 70th birthday and the opening of the exciting extensions to his summer house.

The beautiful scenery of Bohuslan makes for a very pleasant drive north and we stop of at the Vitlycke Museum which tells the story of the many petroglyphs to be found in the area. Our visit here coincides with the arrival of a rally and a very long procession of Corvette Stingrays in superb condition. Sake does toy with the idea of trying to slip into the parade but decides that discretion is the better part of valour!

We had originally planned to take the bus and train on this part of our trip but Sake , in a much appreciated gesture, is driving us everywhere, including up to Oslo. On the way we take a detour to the delightful coastal town of Drobak in Southern Norway to meet up with Marianne , Sake’s older sister. I have not seen Marianne for a very long time and it ‘s lovely to catch up with her. She is looking very well and is the image of her late Mum, Siv.

We take a pre-lunch walk around the town, which is staging a choir festival this weekend, and then enjoy a great seafood lunch overlooking the bay. Coffee and a scrumptious sponge cake at Marianne’s flat which affords us a wonderful view over the water round off our visit to Drobak.

Sake and BM are returning to overnight at Marianne’s but we say our fond farewells with the hope that it will not be another 40 years before we  meet up again ( we will both be 11o!)

Hans Ake

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Marianne, Britt-Marie, David

 

Sake decides to take the route along the western side of the Oslo fjord to reach Billingstad which is itself a superb west of the city. The decision is spot on as the scenery makes for a far more pleasant drive than the one through the centre of Oslo.

Using Gail’s TomTom we duly arrive at the home of Erik and Toril Hansen, the son and daughter-in law of Bobben Hansen, my very long-term friend from my Ladybird Childrenswear days?

Another fond farewell ( we seem to be making a habit of this) to Sake and Britt-Marie who have gone out of their way to make our days with them all that we could wish for and much more. One of these days we must get them out to Aus.

We settle into our room in Erik and Toril’s  lovely home and  just before dinner out on their patio Bobben and his partner Annie arrive from Bobben’s home just down the road. My old mate has had a pretty rough time over the past couple of years health-wise  ( he is now 81 ) but some fantastic support from his family and Annie ( at 85 she is truly amazing)  has helped him recover in part from his mild stroke of a couple of years ago. More on Bobben later.

The Hansen family Toril, Annie,Bobben,David, Eric

The Hansen family Toril, Annie,Bobben,David, Eric

After a long day I probably sit up too late chatting to Erik, in particular, but we do have 6 years to catch up on.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

 

 

 

Orust

Friday 13th June 2014

Sake has, in his meticulous way, planned a route for us to take so that we can really gain an appreciation of the archipelago , especially the town of Marstrand and the rest of Orust itself.

Marstrand is located on the west coast midway between Gothenburg and Orust and overlooks the stretch of water known as Skagerrak. We take a stroll through the town centre and pay a short visit to the fortress above the town, before enjoying a fine open air lunch on the waterfront. During the afternoon we head back north and visit the small community of Mollosund on the south-western tip of Orust. Sake then gives us a real Cooks Tour of Orust which is a revelation with its rolling hills and a far greater variety of scenery than we had anticipated. In contrast to Vrango where we saw more conventional houses ,dwellings on Orust are far more rustic and apart from the main town of Henan the island seems to have fewer built-up areas.

A full but highly enjoyable day ends when Sven and Anna host a very impressive dinner in their guest house.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

Gothenburg to Orust

Thursday 12th June 2014

Nothing really planned for the morning other than to pack our suitcases and prepare for the next leg of our trip north of Gothenburg. Stefan has a deadline to meet for some  articles on the Soccer World Cup for the Swedish Football Federation website so he starts to give some thought as what gems of wisdom he will be able to come up with. He has always had a remarkable ability to work under the pressure of such deadlines and today he shows his usual unhurried , calm approach to the job at hand.

We have had a ball with Stefan over the past three days and he has been the perfect host. Hopefully, we will be able to reciprocate when he and Marianne come to Aus in the future.

Noon sees the arrival at Stefan’s of another old friend from the 1960’s in Gothenburg, Hans-Ake Fridh who will take us up to the island of Orust, north of Gothenburg.Hans-Ake and I first met in a cafe called Rosengrens in 1967 and I became good friends with him and his family. In 1968 we had taken a trip to Norway in my old VW  Beetle, during which I managed to reverse into a tree and tear off the rear mudguard. This was re-attached  using a combination of wire and string so we did eventually get the old car back home to Gothenburg. Sadly the vehicle met its demise some weeks later in the centre of the city when it came to a halt. A local policeman who was obviously more  auto- savvy than me checked things out and told me that it had no oil in it and the engine had gone to meet its maker. No surprise really  as I had never even considered that the car might need oil.

Sake and I have kept in contact over the years and we’re glad to have the opportunity to visit him and his partner Britt-Marie at his Orust summer house.

We take a leisurely drive to  Slussen in the north-east region of Orust , which is one of the many beautiful islands in this picturesque archipelago.

Sake has plans to substantially increase the size of his summer house over the next couple of years but at this stage it cannot accommodate a couple of guests. However, Sake has arranged with his friends Sven and Anna Lundström for us to stay in their guesthouse Villa Helena just down the road.

Sven and Anna had been to Australia a few years ago and they had stayed with us in Melbourne. They had also parked their campervan on the farm belonging to Chip , Gail’s brother in Busselton. Since that time Sven has been ill but he is now on the road to recovery, albeit at a slower pace than this very active fellow would probably like to see.

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Villa Helena is a very well-appointed B&B and we are given a very comfortable room for our 2 night stay.

Sake’s house is in a delightful location and once the planned extensions take place he and Britt-Marie will have a superb, away-from-it-all property.

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Just to acquaint ourselves a bit with this part of Orust we take a short walk down to to the  jetty looking out over the stretch of a water separating Orust from the  mainland.

Sake and BM serve up a lovely meal in his house and we are joined by Sven and Anna to round off a very enjoyable day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

Gothenburg

Wednesday 11th June 2014

A nice relaxed start to the day and under very sunny skies we take a ferry from the jetty near Stefan’s apartment to downtown Gothenburg.  A snack lunch is taken at a restaurant on the waterfront and in my rush to tell Gail that the shrimp platter will be too filling for her I end up giving this assertive advice to an elderly lady who has somehow taken Gail’s place in the queue behind me. Either my eyes are getting worse or I have finally accepted that my chat-up line will now only work with octogenarians!

As we have avoided buying gifts in light of the relatively low baggage allowance on Air Berlin we have set aside some time to do some shopping and for the first time on this trip my titanium knee sets off the security alarm in the Ahlens Dept. Store. This brings a security guy coming coming over to check me out. I then get Gail to take my day pack off me so as to prove that it is, indeed the knee that is causing the problem. On subsequent visits to the store the same thing happens but security guard relaxes when Gail explains to him that I am doing it intentionally as I am an attention-seeker.

Stefan and I leave Gail on her own for about 45 minutes to do some solo shopping as we are both ‘target shoppers’ and, therefore, a pain in the proverbial to Mrs I. We use this time to walk up the main Kungssportsavenyn and revisit some of the places I recall from my days in Gothenburg in the 60’s. Stefan has definitely carved out a very successful career for himself in sports journalism and he seems to greet any number of well-known identities as we take our stroll.

Stefan apartment overlooking Gota River

Stefan apartment overlooking Gota River

The evening has been set aside for inner at an Italian restaurant in Eriksberg , near to Stefan’s with two good friends from my football playing days in Gothenburg, Eddie Dahlberg and Rolf Johansson. A very enjoyable meal is followed by a chat over coffee back at Stefan’s with Gail having to listen to a stream of no doubt highly inaccurate  reminiscences on our sterling football careers

Obese Ferret,Stefan,Rolf

Obese Ferret,Stefan,Rolf

Stefan lives very close to Rolf and seems to call on the poor fellow when any practical work or repairs need to be carried out in flat of Mr Thylin, whose ineptitude in such matters makes me look like a professional handyman.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

 

Gothenburg

Tuesday 10th June 2014

Herr Thylin served up a fine breakfast for us to start the day and as an early 70th birthday gift ( September this year ) he has kindly arranged for us to take a boat  from Saltholmen at the mouth of the Gota River through  the superb Gothenburg Archipelago. The trip takes us past the island of Donso to Styrso where we have a great lunch at Pensionat Styro Skaret which is a lovely location looking out over the water.

Stefan, Obese Ferret, Gail

Stefan, David, Gail

IMG_0105We take our time over lunch and after a stroll around a small part if the island we are off on another ferry to the island of Vrango where Stefan’s family have had a summer house for many years. It’s not surprising that he finds it easy to wind down in this idyllic spot and a short walk to a rocky lookout offers a panoramic vista of Vrango and the surrounding area.

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We arrive back early evening to enjoy more strawberries which we had bought along the way and then reminisced on our miss-spent youth in the 1960’s.

Stefan and I stay up too late and he presents me with the latest book he has written, titled Guldbollen ( the Golden Ball ) which gives profiles on all the players who have won Swedish Football Player of the Year. As is his wont he writes a comment on the inside cover which is dripping in irony. It in fact reads ” to David-  from Gunnar Gren( a former Swedish legend) to Zlatan ( Ibrahimovic) a little bit Swedish Football history”

Marianne, Stefan’s partner of many years who sadly hasn’t been able to travel down from Stockholm, has kindly left for Gail a CD of a Swedish girl band, First Aid Kit who have been gaining an international reputation.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret

 

Monday 9th June 2014

The hotel kindly grants us a late checkout time of 1 pm and this gives us plenty of time to check  a few more items off our Berlin Wish List, before our 5.25 pm flight to Sweden.

Breakfast is taken at a lovely small Backerei which we had spotted on our walk the previous day and following Liane’s advice we head off down Unter Den Linden to view, albeit only from the outside, the superb array of very impressive museums, theatres and the immense Berliner Dom. These are all concentrated around the Museumsinsel area and one can imagine what this great avenue will look like when the huge building and reconstruction works are completed. When taking a photo of the scene we could see 22 cranes on the skyline.

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Rebuilding Berlin

Rebuilding Berlin

Unter Den Linden, minus the cranes and excavations, has the potential to rank along such as the Champs Élysées and it’s a tragedy that this wonderful street was left hidden from the world of so long.

What has been striking about our visit to Berlin has been the realisation that almost all of the areas we have visited were previously in the GDR part of the city( with the notable exception of the Gedachtnis Kirche. )  However, what we now see is a magnificent city which will rank up there with the best in the world once the massive infrastructure projects have been completed.

The Air Berlin flight to Gothenburg is again fine and is made more memorable when a flight attendant approaches Gail to enquire whether we have ordered a hot meal. Gail says  “no” and the attendant asks “are you sure?”, to which Gail replies ” no”. The girl disappears for a short time and asks whether our name is Ireland and sure enough Gail had ordered the meals. In her defense this had been done some months earlier and a lot has happened since then.

We are becoming used to heavy landings on Air Berlin and the captain on this flight lives down to all expectations.

The long taxi ride into Gothenburg  costs 95 Aus$ but the driver is at least more cautious than the Schumacher clone we had had on a previous visit to Gothenburg in 2008.

Our long-time friend Stefan Thylin, welcomes us to his new apartment in a spectacular location overlooking the Gota River and he is looking very suntanned and well from a recent holiday on the Greek island of Kos.

Over some scrumptious strawberries we catch up on all the news and get off to bed at a reasonable time after a fairly tiring day.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

 

Berlin

Sunday 8th June 2014

 Wake up to another sunny, sultry day and give the very large buffet-style breakfast at the hotel a miss. Instead we take the short walk to the very impressive square, Gendarmen Markt, the location of the French Cathedral, German Cathedral and the Concert House. Continental breakfast in the square fits the bill perfectly and the coffee is good enough to have a second cup for once.

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Based on some advice from Craig we take the U-Bahn to Alexanderplatz to view the Fernsehturm which dominates the Berlin skyline and which the East German Government at the time seems to have erected as a two finger ‘up yours’ gesture to the West. The nearby World Clock gives us a timely reminder of how far away we are from dear old Busselton.

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The previous evening I had done some research on Berlin highlights and we next take the U-Bahn to Bernauer Strasse station to begin our self-guided tour of the remaining sections of the Berlin Wall. Along Bernauer Strasse from Brunnen Strasse to Garten Strasse the Berlin authorities, through a series of photographs, plaques and audio recordings, have given a very graphic illustration of the horrors of The Wall which caused those living  along this border untold suffering, not to mention the deaths of so many people driven by desperation to attempt an escape to the West.

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On my previous visits to Berlin in the 1970’s one monument had always stayed in my memory, the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedachtnis Kirche, and so it is something of a pilgrimage to get back to this site which had been bombed almost to the point of extinction during the war. It’s a disappointment to see the old church still under scaffolding as the reconstruction continues, somewhat behind the scheduled completion date of 2013. However, the more modern chapel with its magnificent blue stained glass windows and simple but striking bronze cross makes for a memorable return visit.

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We only have time for a short refresher break back again the hotel before it’s off to the Gendarmen Markt again to meet up with Liane and Bernd for dinner at the fashionable Borchardt restaurant. Apparently, this is a regular haunt of the glitterati and movers and shakers of Berlin and the Irelands at least don’t fit into either category. In fact, we get the distinct feeling that the Ireland/Schrader group may have been a bit too noisy and boisterous for the staff but they don’t refuse our money and we enjoy a very fine meal and the great company of Liane and Bernd. Our short stay in Berlin is definitely coming up to expectations and this is no small way due to the hospitality and kindness of Liane and Bernd. Hopefully, we will be able to return the compliment in Australia at some time in the future when Bernd, in particular, takes some time out to ‘ stop and smell the roses’ ( I have no idea what the translation is in German!)

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

 

Milan to Berlin

Saturday 7th June 2014

Up bright and early to catch the 9.00 am flight to Berlin. Our first flight on Air Berlin and it’s very comfortable, with the exemption of the landing. The captain had announced at the start of the flight that the first officer was piloting the aircraft and  the poor guy let himself down a bit by dropping it down on the runway with a real bump, startling Gail who was having a snooze.

Flying over The Alps

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Our Ghanaian taxi driver is full of bi- lingual information ( he speaks English and  a sort of German patois after 20 years in the country.)

The Adina Apartment Hotel in the centre of Berlin is excellent and ideally situated as far as some of the city’s major sights are concerned. To load up on a few more calories we  eat at a nearby pizzeria and I’m pleased to find that the waiter is Italian as the switch from Italian to German is proving a bit of a problem.

We decide to venture  out on foot with the first stop being Checkpoint Charlie, one of the many places that I had visited over 40 years ago, obviously pre-Wall. It is now something of a circus with tourists posing for ‘selfies’ with supposedly US soldiers in front of the checkpoint but it’s obviously a very good money-spinning exercise.

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We move on from this overcrowded site to the magnificent Brandenburg Gate from where we are able to get a superb view of Unter den Linden, the great avenue to the east of the city.

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The nearby immense Reichstag dominates the scene and the more modern Bundestag building struggles to compete. Gail’s photograph on this says it all.

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On the way back to the hotel we stop to walk through the Holocaust Memorial which is compelling in its simplicity.

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Time to freshen up and then we tackle the Berlin U-Bahn to Kaiserdamm where our friends Liane and Bernd Schrader live. We find our way there without any problems and  after we are given a tour of their very fine apartment we are treated to a superb evening meal washed down at first by the very best of French Champagnes and then a lovely full- bodied French red.

The elegant apartment with its high ceilings and fine array of art works and furniture is very impressive and the the serenity  and peace of the area so close to the hustle and bustle of Berlin comes as a real surprise.We had met Liane and Bernd for only a short time in Puglia , Italy  in 2011 but we have kept in constant, if spasmodic contact since then. Gail and I have always said that it is a sign of a good friendship when one can pick up the pieces so quickly even after a fairly lengthy period and we feel that this is certainly the case with the Schraders. We leave them having been invited to dine with them again the next evening near to Gendarmen Markt and once again enjoy the very clean and well- maintained U-Bahn back to our hotel.

Cheers

 

The  Obese Ferret

 

 

 

Friday 6th June 2014

 We say a fond farewell to Maurizio and Mara with Maurizio getting quite emotional. He is a very open, emotional fellow and the name which he chose for his agriturismo says it all- “yearn for the moon”. They have been wonderful hosts and they have offered all that we could wish during our stay.

After leaving Castiglione we head north to Moncalvo and then take a detour on a beautiful winding old road to the Santuario Di Crea, one of 9 Heritage-Listed sacred mountains in Piedmonte.

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Quite apart from the wonderful gently mountainous scenery of Piedmonte what will live long in the memory will be the striking houses painted in colours such as ochre , salmon, terracotta and mustard yellow, making them so different from those in Umbria and Tuscany. What we will also remember is the friendliness of staff in restaurants and cafés, so pleased that we are all making an effort to master some of their language. More on this later when we get to Stresa.

 Continuing on towards Casale Monferrato and eventually to Stresa Gail makes the interesting comment that it would be better if we only visited places with no ‘r’ in as she and Maureen had both been struggling with rolling the ‘r’. I shudder to think what this would have done to our itinerary and had we applied it to other areas such as food we could have been living on a diet of’ latte’ and ‘pane’!

The arrival in Stresa is a bit of a shock to the system. Whilst its location on the shores of Lago Maggiore is undeniably breathtaking the sight of such hotels as Grand Hotel d’ Isole Borromee, with its over-the-top Italianate garden and hordes of very pink English tourists is such a far cry from the low-key villages which we have encountered earlier in this beautiful province.

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Lunch at what is a dream location on the lake leaves us feeling as cold as the chips which arrive at our table, obviously only having made a brief contact with a frying pan.  My enquiry as to the whereabouts of the toilet is met with a dismissive finger pointing to some stairs below the cafe. I arrive at the said loo to find that the door is padlocked  so I trundle up the stairs again and receive the vital info that I need to get a key from the bar. It’s a bit like being sold a car without a steering wheel.

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We do take a very pleasant walk along the lake and the views over to the three islands, Bella, Madre and Dei Pescatori are superb. However, watching some young people swimming in the murky waters or sunbathing under fairly cloudy skies makes us both realise how fortunate we are in our part of the world.

We leave Stresa at shortly after 3.00 and arrive at the Sheraton Milan Airport in good time to return the nightmare of a Hyundai car, the gearbox with which I have struggled for about 2500 kms. I could swear I heard my good left knee breathe a sigh of relief when I handed the keys back.

The Sheraton is a fine hotel within walking distance of the airport and we decide to pay 50 euros to become Sheraton Preferred Members. This gives us free Wifi,access to a special lounge where we can get drinks and light meals and breakfast.

We duly make full use of this for our evening meal and get to bed by 10.00

Tomorrow we fly to Berlin for two nights and we will leave with  very fond memories of Piemonte, a hidden gem on the Italian landscape.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.

 

Turin

 

Thursday 5th June 2014.

We arrange for breakfast at a slightly earlier time than previously so that we can make full use of the day during our visit to Turin, the largest city in Piemonte. I had been to the city about 45 years ago when working in export for Ladybird Childrenswear but have few memories of that trip. However, it appears that Turin was given a huge lift at the time of the 2006 Winter Olympics and its mainly industrial image has been superseded by a greater focus on its history and culture.

Our first port of call is MAUTO, the National Automobile Museum, providing a truly staggering array of vehicles through the ages and tracing the development from early cars to the current mass-produced vehicles. One very poignant moment during our 2 hour tour is when we see a photograph of a triumphant Michael Schumacher holding aloft a Grand Prix trophy, particularly having heard the very negative news that morning on his very slim chances of recovery.

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Back in the centre of Turin we follow the suggestion of the guidebooks and focus on the Via Roma area between Piazza Castello and Piazza Carlo Felice.

We had not really visited any large Italian cities during our trip I was wondering how we would cope with the expected crowds. As it turns out Turin is an absolute delight, with so many superb large squares, museums and elegant streets. Many of the arcades are reminiscent of those in Bologna but seemingly the 2006 facelift has put this city on a different level to its Emilia-Romagna counterpart.

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Whilst we don’t get to try the chocolates for which Turin is famous we do get the next best thing with some scrumptious ice cream.

The only negative note is that Gail fails to find a fashionable quilted jacket which she had had on her wish list for some time.

We finish our day in this very appealing city with a walk down to the River Po and again we are pleasantly surprised to find that the river itself and the embankments are free of the pollution so evident in other large cities.

Our train journey back to Asti is a bit more adventurous than anticipated when the ticket collector on the train advises us that we should be fined as we are travelling on a fast inter-city train instead of a regional fast train and we had failed to validate the tickets at the station. I probably made matters worse by pretending at first to speak only English and then explaining to him in fairly fluent Italian that the ticket collector had not pulled us up on the way to Turin that morning. That made me look even more devious and Gail told me later that I should have played dumb a bit longer, something that comes quite easily to me! In the event we only incurred one fine and he couldn’t really throw us off as the first stop was Asti.

Back at our home away from home Maurizio serves us with some wine and chips on the terrace and during our chat Gail comes up with a classic comment. We had been discussing how hungry we were ahead of the usual great dinner and she told me that whilst she had been ” ravishing” the previous evening she wasn’t too hungry today.

Dinner as always is spectacular although all this food is doing nothing for our waist lines.

Cheers

The Obese Ferret.